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Posted
Looking for some advice. I previously owned a Malibu Response LX that had a closed cooling system. I live in NC and so at the end of every season I would simply treat the gas, detach the battery and put the boat in my garage (which always stays well above freezing) from December thru February. Now I have a 2016 Response TXI that does not have a closed cooling system. Is there anything that I should consider doing differently with this boat when putting it away for the winter?
  • Baller
Posted
I'd change the oil before you put it away. I'd also personally drain all the water out of it regardless of if it freezes or not - not all that familiar with NC but does it freeze outside the garage?
  • Baller
Posted
Check your manual to be certain, but for starters you should at least drain your engine block just in case you get a cold snap. Also drain other locations with water, like the transmission cooler. If you are relying on a heated garage, the electricity might go out for days after an ice storm. I put antifreeze in after draining the block, but then I live in Kentucky which has more than its fair share of cold snaps (very cold!). The antifreeze may also help with corrosion. There are a number of other procedures you can perform, like fogging the cylinders.
  • Baller
Posted
Definitely drain the block. The owners manual has the drain locations. On my 2014 it's the knock sensors on both sides of the block and a few hoses. If you have a heater, make sure you drain that too. After your first time, it will take less than 10 minutes. I refill with antifreeze as well, but owners manual does not require it.
  • Baller
Posted
We winterize around 300 boats a fall here, I would change the oil, and pull the inlet hose and run 5gal of RV antifreeze thru after you warm it up and open the tstat. Don't let the block sit empty it will rust. If you're in a pinch you can pull the drain plugs. Should have 2 block drains 2 exh manifold drains, water pump drain and yank the line off the trans cooler and also drain your strainer. But beware, those plugs can only go in and come out so many times. Threads rust and then you'll be getting a heli coil.
  • Baller
Posted
I've heard some people say they like to put in RV antifreeze just to ward off rust even if there is no concern of freezing. Others say leaving the block dry is fine because--although it will rust more than a filled block-- it will take several decades for a block to rust through and actually cause a problem. They say an engine will likely fail from several other things long before failing due to rust.
  • Baller
Posted

IMO I'd flush with clean water and dump it.

 

Pink antifreeze really lacks corrosion inhibition. I live where it freezes so I dump, load with pink and dump again.

 

Even pink freezes when it gets real cold.

  • Baller
Posted

FYI -

 

1. Make sure you drain the raw water out first before you pull AF into the system. If you don't the AF will be diluted and there is no way of knowing what mix % you are left with in the block. The Marine style AF is premixed, so adding water to it compromises the freeze protection.

 

2. Be sure to pull the impeller and the strainer and rinse the AF off afterwards. I just store the impeller in a small tupperware container with soapy water so it stays wet and is ready for reinstall in the Spring.

 

HTH's

  • Baller
Posted

I was surprised by how soon pink antifreeze turns to slush. I have a 5 gallon bucket mouse trap loaded with pink antifreeze and was surprised that it started getting seriously slushy at 15 degrees. They say it has burst protection down to -34, but I have my doubts.

 

  • Baller
Posted
Agreed you must drain before the anti freeze. Check the slush points before choosing depending on you storage conditions.

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