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D3 NRG Review


Horton
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UPDATE !!!

@mbabiash ... You had asked if the longer tip settings compensated for moving bindings forward?...Well I decided to go with the Micro-Just, grind out all my slots, move the bindings forward and see. Set the ski up to your exact settings that you posted...Result was the ski felt very stable but not as fast. Increased tip to 6.980, tried again, and it was faster. Still not as fast as stock binding position with added tip. So for me at least, fin tip seems to be more effective than binding position.

 

@ballsohard ... You asked about trying differential fin depth of .030... Well I tried that and it worked GREAT. My biggest problem with the NRG has been overturning the onside as the line gets shorter. Added 2 washers for exactly .030..Left was 2.428 and Right 2.458. In my mind, being that shallow on the left side would make it overturn more. It had the opposite effect. I never overturned any buoys at any line length. Definitely a keeper.

 

What seems to be going on from what I could feel, is that the ski comes off the apex with less effort and sooner. With less effort, you don't try to turn as hard, so therefore you don't overshoot your cross course angle. If I had to describe the difference in the turn in one word, it would be "SMOOTH."

 

 

 

 

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FINAL UPDATE:

 

WOW...Today was significant. Left the front binding at the +1/10th Forward setting and added back the forward tip of 6.995. Also left the differential setting of .030, but added DFT to .800. I have NEVER had a ski turn so quick and so well as this one did today. The offside was more spectacular than ever and you just can't screw that up. The onside has always been what to tune for, to keep from over-turning. Right now this has been the quickest and best acceleration I have ever felt off of the Apex, and so effortlessly. The first couple onside turns, the ski literally took off before I finished upper body rotation. It was like the ski said, "I'm out of here, are you coming."

 

I find the sweet spot, is being able to take advantage of the tip pressure this ski can develop off the apex, without exceeding it's limits. You can actually feel the tip pressure build and release when you get to the maximum setting.

 

After some 21 sets, with each one being different settings from short/deep to long shallow, I am at the point I can just leave it where it's at and just go ski for awhile. For anyone just starting out on this ski I would recommend the following settings and the order to achieve that.

First....For 67" and 68" skis, start at bindings forward one hole, 1/8th inch max.

6.945...2.450...790..7 degrees...Then start adding tip till you start to feel tip pressure and your turns improving. Then move DFT fwd at .005 increments. Max .815. Mine is .800 and feels great.

Last is differential fin depth. Min of .020, with one std washer. Then a thin washer to add another .010 for a total of .030. Left side if you RFF, Right side for LFF. Note that when you add your first washer, start with the depth at 2.450. It will decrease one side the most, and will automatically add to the other side. I accepted these values for what they gave me and did not change depth at all, L 2.428 and R 2.458. The .030 differential depth was the important part.

 

I hope this helps and would love to hear feedback from results others are achieving.

 

Thank You, Ed

 

PS: Special Thanks to Horton, SkiJay, and the Adams for all their help in sharing with me their knowledge to allow me to get to this point.

 

 

 

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@"76S&S" ... Very, very simple. Washers go under the middle screw of your fin block, forcing the bottom of the ski down, Left side for RFF and Right side for LFF. It was originally the brain child of Adam Chord, and there is a detailed explanation, with pictures, on the Denali Web-Site. They now use a Jack Screw in the same location as the washers. Really works great.

 

https://www.denaliskis.com/single-post/2016/01/31/Fin-Area-Tuning-System

 

 

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@DavidP I think the D3 statement is accurate but I get up over the ski, am not a tail rider and really liked the NRG. If you get on the back of the ski, it still turns and gets angle. This ski is much more forgiving of tailriding than most skis.
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@DavidP .... Agree with what @Dirt is telling you. I too, constantly try to be more on the front of the ski, however, as the line gets shorter, this becomes harder, and the NRG is more forgiving with a neutral to rearward lean than any ski I have ever ridden. The AMOUNT of lean becomes more important than if it is forward, neutral, or slightly rearward. I say again, The ski will GAIN angle, dependent on the AMOUNT of increased lean.

 

I am now on my second NRG, and can testify to the fact that this ski Loves, long, shallow settings. Also bindings slightly forward..... I use a Micro-Just front and rear to fine tune binding position to zero in on the sweet spot. Also using a differential depth setting of .030, significantly increased the onside turn capability. Better acceleration off the apex, with less chance of overturning.

 

The greatest attribute of this ski is to develop tip pressure for those of us who do not ski perfectly as Nate Smith does. That is why he is on the ARC..... So bottom line, the NRG will help those of us that fall short of Nate's skill level, to perform at our best level..... It is not a crutch but an aid.

 

 

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