Perfect Pass Loss of Power.

[Joeprunc]

I have a 06 Malibu Response LXI with 3 event Stargazer Perfect Pass. This weekend I upgraded my software to V9.12 (as this was suppose to help with the entrance speed/overshooting going into our course). I was able to ski the first day with the upgrades and the new software did seem to make a significant difference.

 

However, yesterday I took the boat out for a second time and after a 5-10 minute idle in a no wake zone, the PP screen just went blank, no power, nothing. After trouble shooting a bit, it appears that I'm not getting power to the master module. The 2006 DBW PP has a plug and play application which uses existing wiring harness connectors from the boat to connect easily. So there isn't a fuse that I can see between the 12v source and the module. Instead there are four wires coming directly from the boat wiring harness that combine to a smaller pigtail, Green (paddle wheel), Grey (RPM), Black (-), and Purple (12V) (which provides signal/voltage in the 14 pin connector to the PP Module). Using a volt meter, the purple wire is measuring 0 volts. I'm assuming this is the culprit for my issue.

 

I'm working with PP right now and they are providing a lot of help. But I'm asking any other gurus or anyone else that has experienced something like this. And more importantly if there is a hidden fuse between purple wire and boat. I've checked all the breakers, and non of which are tripped.

 

Tonight I'm going to try to run a dummy wire from my battery (with a fuse) to the purple wire, to see if I can get power to the system.

[Joeprunc]

Update from last night,

 

Ran a dummy wire to module, and a dummy ground. The Display now has a back light, but no beeping, buttons don't work. Checked the plug and play wiring from the Malibu wiring harness, and that now has correct voltage. Plugged the plug and play into the module...same results as the dummy wire, back light and no beeping, or button functions.

 

Talked with PP, it sounds like the module took a dive. By the way Perfect Pass customer support is second to none!

 

To throw a question in...I do not ski tournaments, nor ever will, but want to weigh the option for Zbox now that I'm paying shipping from Canada. For someone just skiing for fun is Zbox worth the extra $$, or is V9.12 w/ Stargazer sufficinet? We only have one club member that has Zbox, and I do really enjoy skiing behind his boat (ski at A1). I am just dabbling at getting into -28' @ 34mph

[bassfooter]

@Joeprunc I cannot help with your specific issue, but I can vouch for the effectiveness of the version 9 upgrade; rest assured it's worth the effort to get it working. I wholeheartedly recommend a ZBox, especially since you like your buddy's so much.

[Jmoski]

Is the gauge/module original? That generation gauge had issues, I since replaced. +1 on getting the zbox, and make sure you map the course. With the Stargazer upgrade my wife is actually happy to pull me through the course!

[Joeprunc]

Thanks for the replies, I've been out of town for a bit. An update after talking with PP.

The backlight on the gauge means that the gauge is fine. Gauge and Module are from 2008 V7 I thnk. The no beeping or text on the gauge means the module is bad.

 

I ordered a new module and ZBox, will install and try it out this weekend.

[Joeprunc]

New install went easy as pie, setting up will require much more dialing. I've done lots of online research, and discussed extensively with PPass about things to try.

 

Getting perfect times and ball times without a skier. Getting hot gate, 1, and 2 ball with a skier (at 28, 30, and 34).

[BraceMaker]

That should be a quick fix are you running in normal with those hot times?

[Joeprunc]

I ski Normal, wife skis Light (I also tried her at Feather) all speeds were easily 1 to 1.5 mph faster at gates.

 

Going to perform control test. Then moved to PPass's suggestions:

 

If the baselines are not accurate, inverting the RPM and recalibrating should solve this.

Your boat should really have no problems settling down and getting great times. The inverting setting reads the other side of the RPM pulse. A lot of Malibu boats run much better with inverted RPM.

 

If a boat is working properly, the baselines should be fine. Lowering the baselines by 50 RPM might help the system lock on faster but I would think this boat should be fine with the standard calibrations.

 

Adjusting the background settings can help if you are already very close to actual times. You press the ON/OFF and UP key at the same time to access the background settings.

 

The control test should hold around 1750 RPM at 1.0v. The RPM should be very stable. If the RPM surges when you turn on electrical devices, like a stereo, we need to move the ground wire to the engine block. Some Malibu boats are grounded to the engine block so this might not be a problem. It is worth checking into.

 

If the CRS is too high, the system will over shoot and have a hard time slowing down. If the CRS is too low the system will surge down and disengage several times. The CRS is only used for the first few seconds of engagement. You can try lowing the CRS and see if it locks on faster, you will know when you get the CRS too low.

[skiboyny]

look at your ball times they tell the real story!

[Joeprunc]

Update:

 

I went out twice this weekend and again last night and played some more with it all. The changes really helped dial in the system, it is working fabulously now.

 

What I did:

1) invert RPMs

2) re calibrate speeds (and map course)

3) Control Test passed (no change here)

4) Adjusted Ball 1 times by 2 less than PP settings.

5) adjusted CRS from 1900 rpm to 1850 rpm.

 

Ball times, entrance speed, and course speeds appear to be very very desirable.

 

I am very happy with now with this design and Zbox system.