2005 SN 196 - Won't start

[igkya]

Boat ran fine first several days of the season. Last Wed., on 1st pass, 3/4 of the way around the island, the boat stalls but starts up just fine and we finish the day without further issue. This past Sat, I start the boat, run it up/down the lake and then warm up Iidle) for ~10 min. Start to ski, 3/4 of the way around the island and the engine boggs down and stalls. This time it won't start. Seems like it cranks ok, just doesn't fire.

 

Fuel pressure seems ok... there's no spark at the plug. Distributor connections were all black. I cleaned them shinny... still no spark. How do i test to ensure distributor is good? What's next, ignition coil? Bypass the kill switch? (yes this was triple checked).

 

Anyone help?

@Jody_Seal

[CBR51]

Check for voltage at coil. Also check distributor cap and rotor for corrosion, and not loose, cap could be loose? Bypassing kill switch is a easy thing to do to rule out also

[2Valve]

Throttle Body or Multi Port fuel system?

 

If it's TBI, check for fuel spray from the injector's on engine cranking. Fuel pressure with key on should be around 30psi, but it drops until you crank. With a PCM TBI system, the fuel injector's won't spray on engine crank unless you're generating spark. And the TBI system uses a distributor with an internal ignition control module.

 

I spent a month with a similar issue, last summer on my 2002 PCM 350 and after replacing more than a couple of ignition control module's (inside the distributor), sending out the ECM to verify it was good, fuel and ignition relay's, and finally, the complete distributor itself, the culprit was the connections on the coil to the Ignition control module. Since the coil connections are female and hidden way inside, the coil would ohm out ok, but the connections themselves were the issue.

 

I replaced the coil and the harness to the distributor and voila!

2Valve

 

[igkya]

@CBR51 The Distributor and rotor was corroded. I cleaned it best I could. The side connectors cleaned up nicely, but the top center connection still looks black. Cap was tight.

 

@2Valve for the cost of Distributor and ignition coil, I may just replace them. I'm not seeing the part (online) for the connectors. Got a part #, cost or where you got it?

 

Appreciate the help.

[2Valve]

PM sent.

[MarkTimm]

We just had a similar problem on an 02, in our case the distributor gear had worn out, I have also seen the roll pin that holds the gear in place break. Pull the distributor cap and crank the motor to see if the rotor is spinning.

[buechsr]

when you say fuel pressure seems OK, what are we talking? on a gauge? Should be 57-62 on key up (and under load). From your description, I'm thinking your low pressure pump cannot keep up with the high pressure pump in the FCC. It's possible to have good pressure at the rail but have a low pressure pump failing.

[igkya]

@MarkTimm - rotor spins.

 

@buechsr Shouldn't I still get spark at plug if the fuel pressure is the culprit?

[buechsr]

I would think, my bad.

 

can u take a picture of your cap? The flat kind had a bad run (many were bad). when last time changed? rotor button? coil should be cheap to rule out too.

[thager]

Buddy just had this on his 04. New cap, rotor and condenser solved the problem.

[igkya]

Update: After replacing the cap and rotor, hit start and engine barely cranks. I check battery and it reads 12v. Try starting again and I get this awful clicking sound. Did I fry the starter or could a brand new battery be having issues? SNAFU.

[CBR51]

New battery should be at least 12.5. Check connections are all good and tight too. I am sure you probably already did. Clicking sound, just sounds like low voltage? Doesn’t sound like starter fried? Maybe try jump starting it from another battery

[igkya]

Connected a good spare battery and engine fired right up. New D-cap and rotor resolved the starting issue. Boat battery getting charged today/tonight. Hoping for better weather and skiing tomorrow. Yee Freaking Haw!!!

 

Thanks all.

[MillerTime38]

Never mind see you fixed it

[igkya]

Boat ran great for 2 days. On 1st pass today, engine sputtered around the island but picked back up and ran fine for passes 1-3. Start of 4th pass, boat lags on the whole shot and ran rough thru the course. First thought was weeds on the prop. 5th pass starts out well, must've been the weeds... till I drop the skier, boat shuts off and won't start. No spark at plugs again. I get what seems like plenty of spark from ignition coil, could the new D-cap and/or rotor be bad?

[BraceMaker]

Are you using a spark tester for HEI to determine the spark at the coil?

 

Does the 2005 have an ignition coil pick up unit on the distributor?

[igkya]

@BraceMaker There's a red coil wire from the coil to the distributor. While checking things, I forgot to reconnect this coil wire on the distributor cap and pressed start. This is when I noticed significant spark as it arc'd from the coil wire to the engine block.

[igkya]

The new d-cap seems fine, barely any resistance and we're still getting spark. Could the black box (at rear of boat) be an area of concern?

[UWSkier]

Sounds like an ICM if we were talking Malibus. Can you post a photo if your distributor setup? On most Indmars this is about a $30 fix so hopefully yours is same.

[igkya]

@UWSkier I'm getting spark from the ignition coil (#4 on 1st pic).

 

 

2nd pic, #18 is the distributor.

 

 

[FLeboeuf]

So you changed the battery and it ran for two days and now it doesn't start again? Alternator maybe?

[igkya]

Update: Short story - boat is back and running great. I'm not buying the cause(s) nor the fix, but the engine runs great now. Reported causes were - Screws on new D-cap were too long and caused a problem, the wrong plugs (length?) were installed and caused a short (plugs were replaced in spring of 2018).... blah blah blah. I'm just glad the problem is resolved, or so it appears after 4 days of skiing.