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Dripless Packing Dripping - 2016 SN200


brettmainer
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Towards the end of last season, the 4th season on my 2016 200, the shaft packing started dripping to the point where the bilge comes on after every pass. I want to fix it before I put the boat back in this spring, but there is nothing to tighten or grease.

 

A quick internet search suggests I might need to buy new dripless packing kit, which requires removing the shaft from transmission to install. Mechanical ballers who have worked on this problem, is this the only way to fix leak? If so, my big concern would be reinstalling the shaft with good alignment. Is this a real concern or is it monkey proof?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice.

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I'm doing the same thing right now on my TXi. Buy the Dripless Glide Shaft Seal. Removing the shaft from the trans is the easy part, getting the coupler off the trans is the harder part. Once you get the parts, leave a day to work on it and you will get it done.

 

This video has good tips:

 

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@skierjp

Pretty sure. I can see the water dripping from it. Boat has 700hrs. Leak started about 650hrs.

@ResponseSkier

I’d rather not spend a day working on it. I’m pretty busy these days. Sounds like I should open the wallet and drop it off at dealer.

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Is this a common thing with dripless packing?

 

I have never had a boat with one but have toyed with the idea installing one. I always stop after I realize I could change my packing 20 times for the time and money it would cost me to install a dripless packing in the aftermarket.

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No adjustment. Need to replace. I bought the seal from Miami Nautique this spring and had a local boat mechanic replace it. He said the internal wear that caused the leak was from shaft misalignment. I hit a submerged branch and wasted a prop when the boat had about 10hrs on it. Never a noticeable vibration, but just enough to wear the seal over time. He saved the old seal for me. The wear and thus the cause were obvious.
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Nautique uses the OJ dripless seal which is simply 2 fairly delicate graphite lip seals that ride on the shaft surface. The fix is replacement, drop the rudder and pull the shaft to do it. I think they are fantastic when they work but it seems like failure is pretty common. At least most of these new boats should have double taper shafts that should come free of the coupler fairly easily. Good opportunity to replace the strut bushings too.
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Thanks @jhughes. New to me, but doesn’t sound too bad. Anything to watch out for when dropping rudder or disconnecting shaft? Also, I don’t think my seal is an OJ. It says “glide” and a google search looks like that’s the name of the manufacturer. Or is it really made by OJ? 6cqiex4kcmon.jpeg

 

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I second that you shouldn't need to remove the rudder. At worst you can remove the prop (before you disconnect from coupler) which should allow (has on the 2 boats I've done this) the shaft to come out completely by sliding past the rudder. That's my recollection, at least.

 

I agree it's a perfect time to replace your strut bushing. They really might not "need" to be done, but you'd have to go through the same process to do so later. I used the plastic (vesconite?) bushings last time on a Barefoot Nautique. Your dealer can either send the strut off or if you have access to a puller (can be had through skidim) then you should be able to do it while installed without removing it but don't quote me on that. I do have some recollection of having to mounting a strut to a board that I put in a vice to get the bushing out. But that may have been removed for another reason.

 

And while you're at it! You should check the alignment. IF you don't know how, say so and I or someone else can explain process. Alignment is one of those things that should really be done more than it usually is.

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Alignment, or lack thereof, is also what likely contributed to the dripless failing in the first place. It's also pretty common for the shaft to be riding low in the shaft log if engine mounts have worn/settled. That will put more load on the bottom of the seal and prematurely wear it out. That PSS is a nice unit, but OJ also has a newer one out that is considerably cheaper, and doesn't need a water line.
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Being out of alignment (particularly with relation to the through-hull) can put uneven loads on the seal, and over time can oval out the seal. The flexibility of the seal plays a part and can mitigate some of it, but it's still there, and the seals will last much longer when the pressure is even around the circumference.
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I guess. I just don't see how alignment has any effect on the seal since the shaft is running through the channel that's attached to the shaft.

 

In any event, I think we're in agreement its the opportune time to check the alignment, which is done too infrequently anyway.

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