Fuel Tank Removal

[Skoot1123]

Hey Ballers. The carpet in the rear of my boat (2001 SN BB 196) on the port side is damp/wet/soaked. See attached picture. I am thinking this is related to the hull hugger muffler having a leak. Thinking I’ll need to remove the fuel tank and pull everything out to check out the situation. Do any of you have some tips on pulling their tank out? Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

[Andre]

 

I had a similar leak on my MC from a disconnected speedo hose that was spraying around...

[Skoot1123]

@Gloersen - yes it would. I’m afraid I won’t be able to reach the back side of the muffler after removing it. That is my fear. I also wouldn’t mind checking how the linkages and other items under there are fairing. If I’m taking it out I might as well inspect and document it.

 

@Andre - yep good thought. I recently took my pitot tube and resealed around the entrance point on the hull. So that possibility is taken care of.

[LeonL]

You can remove/replace the muffler without removing the fuel tank.

[Skoot1123]

@LeonL - any suggestions on how to get the back side clamp(s) off?

[skihacker]

Do you happen to have a hot water shower? One of my ski partners had a ton of water coming on from a cracked fitting.

[Skoot1123]

@skihacker - nope. Although at times it sure would be nice!

[scorban2]

The tank must be different on the later TSC1s... Have you tried seeing what you can see from pulling up the floor board behind the motor? I can access the entire muffler (and rudder with some reaching) from there.

 

The only other thought is trying a Bluetooth borescope may be a quicker way to check things out. I got one a few years back for $25 or so that uses your phone as a display and does much better than I thought it would for the price.

[chrislandy]

@Skoot1123 at the rear of the silencer will be a hose clamp with probably a 1/4" or 3/8" nut, If it's like my MC, and the tank just stretches the full width of the rear, over the exhaust hoses, you just remove the rear floor panel, then use a small ratchet, stretch your arm out under the tank and do everything by feel, it's not difficult, just a stretch!

[LeonL]

On my '92 196 the rear clamp could be accessed, but it was a little tough. I think the clamp is 5/16, but it's been awhile.

[Skoot1123]

Thanks guys - I’ll see what I can do this evening.

[Bruce_Butterfield]

Those mufflers are notorious for leaking. If the water in the bilge is warm, that's a dead give away. You can probably patch it for a short term fix. New mufflers are pricey ~$600.

[Skoot1123]

@Bruce_Butterfield - exactly. That is why I’d like to try and patch/glass it first.

[Windsurfnut]

I just did this on a 2002. Not sure how much different the 2001 is - but all I had to do is remove the motor box and the floor panel and I had easy access. Mine muffler did have a crack, I was chasing a leak for a year before I narrowed it down to it. Sanded and fiber glassed the crack and its been all good!

[rockdog]

For the life of me I cannot get that rear flooring panel out of my TSC3. I've had the motor box out and lifted the panel up a little from the catches but it will not slide out - it doesn't even move. Is there something back under the fuel tank holding it in place?

[Killer]

Is it possible? Yes probably but not likely. Moving the tank is a pita but not that hard. There are the 2 straps and the fuel and vent connections. Make sure the tank is at least almost dry..

 

The 00-01 is a different beast than the 97-98 or 02 tsc2.

 

You need to undo the tank to get at the rudder as well. Would be a decent time to pull that, inspect the packing and grease it. Only problem is once you get the boat in the water it may require an additional adjustment of the rudder packing gland. Ask me how I know...

 

You can patch the muffler but it will probably not hold for that long. You can also go straight pipe...