driveshaft strut bearing for 92 brendella

[Taynton]

so i decided to check the strut for play and it has some, trying to source the new bearings/sleeves any one done this on an old brendella? i can order them if i pull the old ones and measure them but i would like to ski in the meantime. thanks!!

 

[Oldkier]

Check out skidim.com aka discount inboard marine, they have always been very helpful with my parts.

[BraceMaker]

Have you tried ron tanis?

[Zman]

How much play? You should have a little. The bearing/sleeve is likely the brass sleeve with a fluted rubber inner surface. Like noted above, SKIDIM should have them. You should just need your shaft diameter, which is likely 1 inch.

[Taynton]

it is just a little play, but i get a signifigant vibration when i put it into reverse as well as a slight high frequency vibration at driving speed.

when I unbolted the coupler the play seemed to increase signifigantly. the boat has 800 hours on it and im guessing its never been replaced.

[TomH]

Skidim has them - just ordered some a few weeks back. Your shaft is almost certainly a 1-inch, so you just need the ID of your strut which could be 1-1/4, 1-3/8, or 1-1/2. My 94 dyne was 1-1/4. Just crawl under there with a caliper and measure it.

[Taynton]

nice thanks ill order them from skidim, does anyone know if you need to remove the rudder to pull the driveshaft?

 

[Taynton]

Ok Thanks again for the responses this forum has been a lifesaver. Im going to ask again and post the part number for future searches.. after measuring the shaft and strut it appears I need:

 

1 3/8" OD and 1" ID for the 92 ski brendella.

odered it from skidim.com part number #SB10X13

(they are 2" long and there is 2)

 

Does anyone know the best way to install these? Do I need to pull the driveshaft? if so, can you do it without pulling the rudder?

 

In my mind the best way would be pull the prop, unbolt the strut and pull it off that way but Im only guessing. the ron tanis youtube was a big help but it doesnt say how to get the strut off or the best/easiest way to get the shaft out.

 

thanks guys, pic for da boys!

 

[TomH]

There's a fair chance you need to drop your rudder to pull the prop-shaft. Some boats had the rudder offset just enough for the shaft to clear, but most are in line. Dropping the rudder is easier than dropping the strut, and is less likely to give you engine alignment issues when you bolt it all back up (but you should still verify alignment after you replace the bushings). I also think getting the bearings out will be easier with the strut bolted up to the boat. I had to pull my strut to get some glass damage repaired and I replaced the bushings with it off the boat, and having the strut loose just made everything a little harder. I used the method Ron Tanis shows of using a sawsall to split the old bearings, and then drifting them out. Throw the new ones in the freezer, and then press them in using some threaded rod, large washers, and some lube. The biggest pain will likely be getting the transmission coupler off the prop-shaft. Mine had to be pressed the whole way out (even after the taper released) as the key had corroded in the slot pretty well.

 

If you're pulling the shaft, you may want to look into installing one of the dripless shaft seals while you have everything apart.

[Jetsetr]

You will need to pull the rudder on the Brendella

Been there...done it...easy

Give it some love when it’s out...clean, fresh synthetic grease, check wear.

[Taynton]

Thanks @TomH and @Jetsetr this is vey helpful, I will drop the rudder and go that route, going to need a prop puller and probably the coupler puller as well, the driveshaft seems to have been replaced its in real good shape. really wish i had a boat shop i trusted to do the work but every time i talk to the guys around here i get the impression they have no idea what they are doing lol

[TomH]

You can pop the transmission coupler off the taper by putting a socket between the coupler faces against the shaft end. Then install longer bolts or threaded rods between the coupler halves and tighten. The socket will press the shaft out of the coupler (after you remove the retaining nut of course).

[RichardDoane]

Dr Jack’s bushings were pretty worn, but the shaft was also a problem. ARE makes nice stuff. If I had to do it again I’d go with a 1.125 kit. Bushings we’re so stuck in the strut that removal was necessary in order to put it in a vise.

[thager]

Wow, guess I was lucky when I replaced the strut bearings on my 93 Hydrodyne. All I had to remove was my prop, loosen the set screws in the strut, then tap the bearings out with a small nail and hammer.