Ski 200 team LINQ screen issue

[Killer]

2014 or 2016 team 200 with the Zo LINQ screen at cold start it has rainbow lines and sometimes have to restart a few times to get it to work.

 

Was told by dealership it's many $1000s to replace and the screen is on its way out. There's about 2k hrs on the boat.

 

Any thoughts?

[LeonL]

Sad, but that's the problem with most of today's boat electronics. Costs a fortune to replace.

[brettmainer]

Make sure you let the computer fully boot up and get to main screen before cranking engine. Mechanically different but similar to waiting for glow plugs to warm up before starting a diesel engine in that you turn the key part way (or single push of the button), wait 5 to 10 seconds, then start engine.

[Killer]

@brettmainer we do wait to crank. This is before the engine has started.

 

@LeonL like 8 grand dude. Wtf? Can't be... This was a quote from the dealer

 

@Jody_Seal any thoughts?

 

Got a pic

 

 

[jhughes]

I'd be in there unplugging and re-plugging in every connection, then probably throw in the towel after that.

[Xpropman]

@Killer call me

863-six 0 five 03four 0

I probably have your solution

[jpwhit]

Is this touchscreen version or the version that just uses the button around the perimeter of the display? I can't remember the exact year they added the touch screen. If it's not the touch screen version, I think I have the right LCD panel and can fix it. If it is the touch screen version, I may have one of those assemblies as well, but I'd have to look through my collection of complete display units and parts.

[Killer]

@jpwhit it's not a touch screen, just the buttons.

 

@jhughes yes, we discussed that. Seems this happened after the marina changed something for the water temp, so perhaps wires got crossed. Same marina who said that'll be 8k and it's on its way out lol

 

@Xpropman thanks, will call tomorrow!

[jhughes]

As an aside, I have this same screen setup (linq 2.0) and I have to say it is the most ridiculous, nonsense user experience ever. Who designed this thing? Trying to explain how it works to anyone is so annoying. "Oh you want to see the water temp? Ok press the little house button. Then in the lower right press the soft key for more views, then it should be there. Oh if the soft key is not there press a key to make it show up first. Oh back to zero off? Press the key that looks like a little boat in the course, yup. Oh change the letter? Yeah you have to press pull type, then up or down, then yeah back to get back to speed and the letter is in that little tiny corner of that circle thing, etc." so dumb. If mine ever breaks I'll be doubly mad that it's broken and dumb, instead of just dumb.

[B_S]

Mine wigs out occasionally as well (non touchscreen), and only thing that fixes it is a complete power down.

[jpwhit]

There are two things that happen that can cause these symptoms. One is that there is noise on the power feed to the screen during the time that firmware is configuring the LCD panel and the panel ends up configured incorrectly. This can be prevented in some cases by not doing certain things when the boat is being powered up. I also built an adapter cable with filter capacitors and ferrite beads on the power supply wires that can prevent this issue.

 

The second thing is that the FPC cable that attaches the LCD matrix to the LCD driver start to delaminate from the circuit board. This causes all kinds of issues with the LCD and can be intermittent, but will get worse over time. There is nothing external that someone working on the boat can do that causes this or can fix it. The only solution is the either replace the whole screen assembly, or crack the sealed screen assembly open, replace the LCD panel, and reassemble and reseal the unit.

 

The user interface on these is horrible. Part of the reason is that the boat manufacturers aren't writing the software natively. They are using a toolkit provided by Murphy that lets you develop applications for these screens with a minimal amount of actual software development. These toolkits impart of a lot of limitation on the application and make it very easy to build a horrible user interface. It's not really a good excuse, but it makes it easier to understand how it ended up so bad.

 

Some boat manufacturers are better than others. I find the Nautique software to be the the worst. Especially the non-touch screen versions. Some of the latest MasterCraft display aren't so bad, but could still be so much better. Especially if the software were written natively to break out of some of the restrictions of the Murphy PowerView Toolkit.

[mlange]

A lot of us (mine is a '12) are likely to run into LINC issues at some point that require a new screen or...

 

Is there a path to go from LINC to the analog gauges that is plug-n-play?

 

Looks like we can get the bezel and gauges from Nautique Parts and Miami Ski Nautique.

 

Bezel - link $160

Speedo - link $330

Tach - link $250

Depth - link $229

 

ZO we can just use the head unit for.

 

Would need to get a remote for the stereo head unit.

 

Not sure if I'm missing anything.

 

 

 

[lakeaustinskier]

As the owner of a 2017 TT 6 liter 200 and a 2017 GS20 I think CC has always had a great boat and horrible electronic interface.

 

Almost like a BMW is a great car to drive but I can never figure out how to turn the radio on or connect Bluetooth.

 

 

[skierjp]

@Killer call Xpropman he will know what to do and how to fix it.

[Andre]

It's 2022.

No more touchscreen at ridiculous prices from the boat makers.

Should be Bluetooth.Set everything from your phone,tablets...

Coming from an old fart too.

 

Edit: We lost the ''no phones in the boat'' thing a long time ago.

[Killer]

Today it didn't do the rainbow screen, went to the initial start up nautique logo and stayed there. 23 tries! Tried total power off, including the perko switch. This was by far the worst it's been.

 

Tried you earlier skip, will try again tomorrow. I'm in the boat for most of the day so hopefully it's good! We leave the system powered up for the day so we don't have to worry about it when pulling skiers, just at initial start up.

 

I can't believe the cost though. An iPhone is far more capable and a fraction of the price... I get that these are proprietary and not a volume item but perhaps the OEMs can get some continuity and build volume related discounts. The cost of these boats is killing the sport

[Jody_Seal]

@Killer

4 stupid small Allen head screws hold the screen in the dash pod.

pull them out and pull the screen enough to look at the wire harness plugged into the linc.

make sure all the wires are seated correctly into the unit.

in some years there was a couple of odd looking modules connectors without any wires coming

out. if your boat has these two modules unplug the one with the red wire and closest in the

harness to the linc unit.

after you remove this module push the unit back in the dash and see if that corrected your issue.

again there may or may not be that module I can't remember what years they had them.

[jpwhit]

@mlange the boat in question here has the ZO controls integrated into the LINC display. So, you would need to add a ZO head unit to your list. Also knowing what all the LINC display handles, I think there would have to be some kind of black box in addition to the gauges. Something similar to the MMDC of earlier boats. There isn't any wiring in the harness for analog gauge inputs. Everything is done via the CANBUS. So, unless each of the gauges in your list has a CANBUS interfaces, there would have to be some kind of black box to serve as the gateway between the gauges and the CANBUS. Also, looking at the 200 wiring diagram, there are no connectors shown for individual gauges.

 

We used to have members of our ski club with 200's with analog gauges. Now I wish I had looked at how the gauges were connected into the wiring harness.

 

Your 2012 200 is pre-LINC ZO integration, so I guess you do have the original ZO interface independently from the LINC display.

[Jody_Seal]

the pcm engine actually produces analog information. I bet that 2012 has the analog harness at the dash that is unused in a digital dash linc setup.

[mlange]

That's what I was hoping for Jody. I'm seriously considering buying the analog replacements for when LINC eventually sh*ts the bed.

[KRoundy]

I know this is not screen related and don’t want to thread jack, but I see some good knowledge being shared here so it is hard to resist: My 2016 Team Edition 200 has a funky depth finder issue. Sometimes it reads ok for a couple of seconds and then reads “100 ft”. Mostly it just sits at 100 ft. Do I need a new transducer? Is it just a lose wire? Anyone else have this issue? My screen works great.

[PatM]

My depth finder reads 100ft when on the boat lift

[jpwhit]

@KRoundy more than likely you need a new biducer. It possible to be an wiring issue, but the intermittent behavior you describe is typical of how these tend to fail. Are you getting temp reading ?

 

https://nautiqueparts.com/product/bi-ducer-depth-temp/

[KRoundy]

Yes, the water temp is good. The depth is the only thing that seems off.

[jpwhit]

@KRoudy, then it pretty much has to be the biducer itself. There's only a set of CANBUS and Power wires going to it. So if the temp is working, then the biducer is communicating on the CANBUS. The depth sounder circuitry in the biducer must be failing. And as I said before, this is a fairly common failure. I've replaced 2 out of the 5 boats I provide maintenance for in the last 5 years.

 

It's actually possible to buy the part w/o going through Nautique or MasterCraft for cheaper. They are made by AIRMAR but it's tricky to match up the right part number. There are a lot of variables such as sensor angle and most of the boat makers use a different part # than the native AIRMAR part maker.

[KRoundy]

@jpwhit Thank you! Is the correct part number listed on the device? I sure don't mind saving some money by just buying direct. I found the device yesterday and it is located behind my drain plug, which is a pretty difficult spot to reach as it is underneath the engine.

[jpwhit]

@KRoudy, the ones I replaced had a boat manufacturer specific part number on the device. It did not match any of the standard AIRMAR part numbers. I think I figured out which AIRMAR part # was likely correct, but in the end didn't want to risk it since I couldn't be sure and the part was not returnable. I can't find anywhere that I recorded the part # I thought it was.

[KRoundy]

Ah, OK. Perhaps then I should just buy it from my dealer or from NautiqueParts.com. Thanks!

[mlange]

@jpwhit

 

Sorry. I missed your comment to me above.

 

Good call on the ZO head unit. My 2012 LINC actually is integrated w/ ZO, but it's pretty screwy. I forgot that starting in, I think, 2014 the ZO head unit only exists for the boats with analog gauges and LINC boats don't get the head unit. I'm guessing they may even have made that change because of how screwy it is on the 2012's where you can change the ZO settings on both the head unit and LINC. It's so bad I just always use the head unit.

 

I'm going to open up the dash this weekend and hope that I see the analog connectors that Jody thinks might be there.

 

Mike

[skierjp]

@mlange just call Skip and he will tell you what you need. He works on these all the time for Nautique. He knows what he’s doing.

[jpwhit]

@mlange I'm interested in what you find in terms of analog gauge connections.

[mlange]

The attached file here makes me think that the wiring harness will have everything I need. If you zoom way in you can see both a LINC and analog connector in the harness. While the title of this is 2016 the date on the drawing is 2011.

 

It makes sense. Why would Nautique want a different harness for a LINC vs. analog boat? Just have one harness that works for all 200's.

 

We'll see this weekend.

[LeonL]

@mlange that would be too logical. It would "make sense ". A rare thing these days.

[jpwhit]

Yes, in the 2016 wiring diagram it shows an analog gauge connector. But in earlier year wiring diagrams that is not shown. Make me think that in earlier years there may have been difference harnesses or there was some king of gateway black box. I agree I'm not sure why that makes sense...

 

This is part of why I'm very curious as to what you find on your boat. I looked at my 2012 200 Linc equipped club boat last night and didn't see an obvious analog gauge connector. I did see what I think is extra CANBUS and Power Connectors. Which are 3 and 4 wire connectors. The analog gauge connectors are typically more like 12 pin connectors. But I didn't have a lot of time so I couldn't do a very though inspection.

[mlange]

Yep. Looks to me like there should be a 12 pin connector and a separate one for the depth. Wish I had the time to check before this weekend. I'll take pics either way.

[mlange]

@jpwhit

 

Verdict is in. At least on my '12 the 12-pin analog connector is there.

 

 

 

 

[Jody_Seal]

there even labeled and have ecm pin out numbers... easy peasy!! you can even wire in a key switch into that harness..

 

now how to load the said gauges in the dash?

[mlange]

Ahhh. That was the one thing I wasn't sure of. Is there a harness that plugs into that and then connects to the two gauges? Or does that harness plugin into one of them and then there's an interconnect between the two?

[jpwhit]

Good to know the analog gauge connector is there. Also means you can't assume the wiring diagrams are 100% complete.