Jump Binding DFT and set up

[jjackkrash]

I bought an older pair of EP jumpers, 72", and they have about a 1000 binding holes drilled in them. First, anyone know at least a ball park distance from back of ski to heal of bindings for placement? Also, I filled all the drill/screw holes with JB weld marine putty epoxy, but am not sure if I hit one of these holes on re-drill that it will hold. Any thoughts on this issues as well? Can I glue a thin metal plate on top of the ski to drill through for the binding screws to bite and take hold?

[Bruce_Butterfield]

Caution, caution, caution. Those skis should be fine for ploppers less than 50' or so. For that level of skier you can duck tape and JB weld most issues, just keep an eye out and if anything concerns you don't let anyone go over the ramp with them. Fine for riding and beginner skiers .

Sorry if I was Captain Obvious :o

[jjackkrash]

@Bruce_Butterfield, I have brand new (and longer) skis on order and these are just for ploppers or close to first timers. We just got the ramp in and I'm just trying to get the kids going without waiting on supply chain issues. We also have another loaner set from a gracious baller but they are a touch small for my boy.

[bojans]

@jjackkrash

I love to hear there is a new ramp in play. That is great news. I have found most of the manufacturers are fairly amicable to providing guidance on old skis. If the company is still in business, it might be worth contacting them.

[jjackkrash]

It is an EP, so not in business.

[RRGR]

I don't know on ballpark (Ill see if I can remember to take a look the next time I see some shorter jumpers). I did this on a set of snow skis for the kids, saw it on a snow forum. Tear off a little steel wool, and push it down a bit in the hole with a tooth pick, then fill with epoxy (JBW). The steel wool gives future screws a bit more purchase.

 

I would bet if you chatted with D3 online, they would do you a solid and tell you their DFT.

 

I was chatting with them about some jumpers, ended up going with stokes, and they were still very gracious after I told them about my direction. I was on an email chain with T Whisper... very cool experience.

 

 

[jjackkrash]

The steel wool idea seems like a good one. I have also shoved toothpicks into stripped holes to give them some bite in the past.

[TomH]

I've got a pair of 68" kidders out in the garage. They're 27" from the tail to the heels on a pair of medium bindings, and ride really well there. The skis' mounting plates start a couple inches behind that, and extend about 4 inches beyond the toe of the bindings on them.

 

On 72s, maybe split the difference and start at 29ish. Otherwise, I think we've got some EP's (probably also 68s) in the team trailer, and might be down there tomorrow and could measure then.

[BraceMaker]

@jjackkrash buy stainless or bronze wool if you do that - but I would recommend instead to go get a small scrap of fiberglass cloth or carbon fiber, cop it finely w/ scissors and mix with the epoxy. steel wool will rust.

[jjackkrash]

@BraceMaker, is it feasible to drill and insert binding posts for the screws like they have inserted in slalom skis?

[BraceMaker]

I think based on your comments on how many holes there are already - I would figure out what the best set of holes would be, then once you have that dialed in I would fill all the other unusable holes with that epoxy/chop mix and then re-use the appropriate holes.

 

Modern D3 have aluminum plates to screw into but the older Kidders no clue - but you wouldn't want to drill 6 or 8 new big holes into a ski that's already all swiss cheesed.

[jjackkrash]

I got some jump-binding placement guidance charts from Wiley's. What a great resource.

[jjackkrash]

Getting closer.

[jjackkrash]

Before pic.

[wettek69]

Holy crap! You weren't kidding when you said there was about a 1000 holes in them!

You've done a good job tidying them up.