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  • Baller
Posted

T-factor users,

I just changed my overlay because it tore. It feels different, which is to be expected.

I was thinking I should change it more regularly.

How often do you change it?

I have been putting on new laces about twice a year. Maybe I should change the overlay at the same time?

  • Baller
Posted

Have not changed overlays on mine since new in 2014.  I have only replaced internal heel pieces both frt and rear bindings.

Replaced a couple of top laces in that time. 

  • Baller
Posted

I have changed both my overlays this year, one with a tear the other with delimitation.  The more recent version do not seem to hold up as well as the older version. I understand D3 is testing an improved version.  I typically replace the laces every 2 months of so.  I bought 10 feet of both sizes for around $15-$20 or so.  They lose their elasticity relatively quickly if you pull them tight, which I do.  

  • Baller
Posted

If you get on the back of the ski somewhat often, as I occasionally do out of offside on my toughest passes, the overlays will tear on the front within a couple months. In my experience it's inevitable. A leather punch and zip ties are a permanent fix at least for the binding, maybe not for my technique!

This is a bit of a weak point where you have two different materials joined with tight stitching intervals, in rubber no less. 

IMG_2702.jpeg

  • Baller_
Posted

I’m not sure how long the TFactor overlays will last, but Daisy,  the little girl next to Nate’s ski on the start dock at Little Mountain, lasted 17 and a half years. Adios, mis amigo. 

IMG_4637.jpeg

  • Like 7

Lpskier

  • Baller
Posted

@jhughes, that's a recent thing with the new overlays, not related to your technique.

I run double t-factors. Replace the front yearly and put it on the back (they do soften up)

  • Baller
Posted

Along the l8ne of what @JackQ said, my new ones just aren't the same as the old ones,  Fit just not the same.  Rear "tongue" has to be placed (forced) in between overlay flaps.

  • Baller
Posted

Regarding Tfactor here,s a useful tip for the Wrap, especially the new type with no slots,.

Stay away from the stitching and cut down the sides 1/2 to 5/8 inch and finish with a u shape, think the whole thing on mine is about 1 inch or just over, doesn't really affect the binding, but does help prevent the rubber splitting where it is stitched on the sides, less strain when you put your foot in and out of the binding.

I  will try and post piccy

  • Baller
Posted

@LeonL here you go pictures of the mod, I decided to do when the left side started to separate where it was stitched, any modification anybody chooses to carry out , they carry out individually and take full responsibility for, this is just a visual reference to show people what I choose to do.

IMG_0544.jpg

IMG_0543.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
  • Baller
Posted

So here is another Tfactor Tip !  @Drago you will like this one, regularly take your binding/bindings off and check the screws underneath, they come loose and eventually wreck the holes they screw into, the Tfactors are a Great Binding but you need to do Maintenance.

  • Like 1
  • Baller
Posted

@disland I bought the bungee from Amazon, the two sizes are 1/8” and 5/32. There are multiple vendors and lengths available, just read the listing carefully as some will say 1/8” but will in fine print say 3mm. Close but not the same.  

  • Baller
Posted
7 hours ago, Stevie Boy said:

So here is another Tfactor Tip !  @Drago you will like this one, regularly take your binding/bindings off and check the screws underneath, they come loose and eventually wreck the holes they screw into, the Tfactors are a Great Binding but you need to do Maintenance.

Yup! That's on my list of what to check when you're in a slump

  • Haha 1

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