oldjeep

@Rednucleus

Yeah, I thought it was weird too

Followup. Hoses were backwards, all is good.

It isn't quite that simple unfortunately. One line goes into the bottom of the pan after going through the oil cooler and the other goes to a wart that comes off the block. It isn't like a 5.7l remote filter.

 

Based on some info I got elsewhere I think they are reversed, but I would like to see a picture or get info from pcm/nautique before I have him reverse them. I don't want to be responsible for messing up his boat.

Anyone have a picture or can help with a 2021 200 with zr4. Bil removed the filter adapter lines and we are unsure which goes where. One of the lines has a blue collar on it- currently he has it in the outer position but got an oil pressure alarm.

 

My Chevy V8 will still be running fine in 2035

So do it right and drain the water out first instead of taking the shortcut of trying to flush the water out with antifreeze. ;)

@Zman he was still there answering tech emails earlier this year in March.

Or just look at the label on the ecm if it is still there.

Should be mefi 5/5a. But email indmar at their contact link With your engine serial number and Larry will tell you everything you want to know.

No kidding. The -100 stuff I use is $13 a gallon

@dbutcher In general replacement engines don't come with manifolds.

$2800 seems crazy for one manifold - sounds like someone is getting scalped. The equivalent Indmar Cat manifold (ETXCat) are about $1200 a side. If you felt the need to pay someone to install them, the labor shouldn't be much in a DD since they are easily accessible.

Mine doesn't sit out much, but my folks pontoon we have to retreat the cover with 303 every couple of years.

@swbca Depends on what you want to do. I don't take them out over the winter, I replace every 2-3 years - which on my boat is 100-120 hours. I've never had a failure and I've never pulled one out that actually looked like it needed to be replaced. I keep a spare in the boat and the tools I would need to replace it if the need ever arose.

 

 

2

1 fall with broken ribs

1 bee inside the mouth while skiing in the middle of the lake (I'm allergic)

@Edmund Whatever drains are available on your particular motor should be opened and drained.

I only fog recently machined engines that will sit for years. Long term project engines. The boat sits for 5-6 months and has more than enough oil in the cylinders. Same thing I do with motorcycles and snowmobiles, park them and start them up when it is time to go.

I also drain mine completely 1st, in clouding the j tube. Blow out the heater and the pour in though one of the hoses at the thermostat housing and fill the heater via the upper hose. At no point do I run the engine, this all happens in the garage on whatever day I decide the season is done.

 

When you drain the block, make sure to jam a screwdriver in the block drains to make sure they are not clogged.

That is a little more elaborate than mine

The year I bought my VTX - 2014 we had so much rain that all the local lakes were no wake for a month. This year has been pretty good, levels were down maybe 1.5 ft but they have been coming up recently with all the rain we have been getting lately

Must be holding it wrong again.

You need an A4 convertible. There is actually a little door that opens behind the backseat armrest with a bag that extends all the way between the front seats to keep the interior of the car clean. Designed for snow skis, but should work with a waterski. Had to google it to figure out what the heck it was for after we got the car for my wife.

Typically it is inside the distributor

This is not a TPS error

SPN 636 FMI 8 Crank and/or Cam Could Not Synchronize During Start

Diagnostic Aids

Check that crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor(s) is/are securely connected

to harness

Check that crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor(s) is/are securely installed

into engine block

Check crankshaft and/or camshaft position sensor(s) circuit(s) wiring for open circuit