TallSkinnyGuy

@seveet I have a '97 MC 190 but haven't skied behind the 91-94 MC 190 hull. I've been told that the 91-94 version has a slightly smaller, softer wake than the 95-97 hull but more spray (only noticeable in a strong headwind or -35 and shorter). If you ski longer lines and like the '96 you skied behind, you should love the '91.

The Alloy really does look red in all the production pictures published on Internet sites, but the 2017 Radar Senate video clearly shows it as orange, just like in the pic above. Great looking ski.

Looks red to me, but I haven't seen it in person. Personally, I think the 2017 Senate graphics are some of the best I've ever seen on any skis and I much prefer them over the 2018 graphics. The Graphite version still has the damper PU core (as opposed to the Lithium version with the PVC core that will feel a little more pingy in choppy water). The Alloy and Graphite versions in 2017 are both 100% carbon fiber reinforcement, so the two may not feel as different as those versions in past years where the Alloy had 50/50 carbon/glass. Also, you get the adjustable fin with the Graphite version in 2017 (vs. mostly fixed fin with the Alloy) -- this may or may not be important to you. I just ordered the Graphite version from The Liquid Edge in Illinois (overstockskis.com), but I think both PerfSki.com and the site I ordered from have 69" skis available for both the Alloy and Graphite versions.

My understanding is that the rubber is a vital part of the boot's release system because it allows that part of the shell to stretch to allow the liner/foot to come out in a fall.

@HighAltitude Yes, the Senate, Carbon V and Omni are in the same category most people seem to call "mid-range" skis. They are a little wider than the top-level skis and designed to be more forgiving and targeted at the skier who freeskiing up to maxing out at around 28off in the course. In contrast to what was said earlier, the Senate is a solid 34mph ski, and this whole category is generally designed to have a max speed of 34mph. According to reviews, they work great at 34mph at longer line lengths. I've skied the Senate Alloy and standard Connelly V at 34mph many times -- they work great at that speed. I've also skied a modern top-of-the-line ski and found it to be much more nimble, but at my level I found the mid-range skis to be much better suited to me due to the added stability and forgiveness. I usually ski a pass at 30mph/-15, then 32mph/-15, then 34mph/-15. I run about 30%-40% of my 34mph passes. My PB is 5@-22/34mph. All of this on a 2015 Senate Alloy.

Since the liner is heat moldable and will "pack out" with both heat molding and use, I feel it is appropriate to do a shell fit (i.e. without liner) to determine if the boot is really the correct size for you. The liner will never take up as much volume as the first time you try it on because it will compress over time.

Seems like a 67" Theory is too big of a ski for your weight at 34mph. You might try the 65" versions of the Senate, Connelly V or HO mid-range skis (CX, TX, Omni) and see if they work better for you.

I have a narrow foot and usually wear size 11.5 or 12 in street shoes. I ordered a size 12 vapor boot and just received it yesterday. With the liner out and my foot in just the shell I have about 1.5cm of extra space lengthwise. Also, plenty of space laterally. With the liner in the shell my toes touch the end of the liner (before heat molding) but only lightly. The only slight discomfort I feel is on both sides of my shin bones (or whatever they are called -- the little bumps that stick out on both sides of my ankles), but I am sure heat molding would compress the liner in these areas and make it comfortable. So, I have what appears to be a properly fitting boot, but I would like to be more confident in the release before I fully commit to it. I posted this in another thread but haven't yet gotten a response -- can I release test this boot dry or do they need to be wet for a proper release test? I ask because I want to be able to return this boot if I am not comfortable with the release.

If you throttle down smoothly you will feel it disengage. Just like when you throttle up you feel/hear it engage when you get close to the set speed. ZO is designed to hold your set speed, but you have to use the throttle to get it there and to take the speed back down.

Anyone have advice on how to test the release of the Vapor Carbitex boot while keeping the boot in returnable condition? FedEx dropped one at my doorstep today, but I want to make sure I can release properly from the boot before I commit to it. I am currently using Connelly Talon bindings but have to not use the top lace loops for the lower section and keep the cuff laces very loose for my feet to come out. I bought a Vapor boot for my front foot with the hope that I could have a boot with more support but as releasable as my Talon setup. So, does the binding have to be wet to accurately test its release? Any other factors I need to consider that affect the release?

My v8 was performing like Greg Banish describes above, but v9 has dramatically reduced the speed overshooting on my boat ('97 PS 190, mechanical throttle). Odd that it wouldn't be consistently better on other boats. I do have to run my system in "inverted RPM" mode, but if that were an issue for anyone I would think the problem would be much more significant than just overshooting speed.

I installed PP Stargazer a couple years ago and the GPS puck recently failed. PP replaced it under warranty, which was great. However, I'm wondering if my puck placement had any role in the failure. I installed it on top of my dash where it always had full sun exposure. I just read in the instructions that it could be installed under the dash, so I manually held the puck under my dash to see if it would make a successful satellite connection. It did -- at least that one time that I tested it. Seems like installing the puck under the dash would keep it safe from harsh sun exposure, but I don't know if that is actually an issue. Anyone have suggestions on whether I should install the new puck under or over the dash? My only goal is to make the thing last longer.

I went from an old 66" Connelly HP to a 67" Connelly V a few years ago. I weigh about 170 but am pretty tall (if that makes a difference). I ski 30-34mph in the course and just recently started shortening to -22, but mostly ski -15. I definitely would not want to go shorter than 67" for me. I'm on the Radar Senate now, but it is similar to the V I was on previously. I think you will find that essentially all the mid-range skis are only offered in 2" increments. Makes it a bit tougher if you are on the ends of the recommended size ranges, for sure. Are you successfully running passes at -22 at 34mph in the course? If you like to freeski at 34mph but have to slow down to 30 or 32 in the course, you might be happier on the 67".

IIRC on mine you press the Menu and UP buttons at the same time and it takes you to a menu list that includes one that shows the version number.

Glass in a course is okay, though I prefer a slight ripple. Glass in open water I find very visually distracting -- it feels good but is difficult to ski due to not being able to clearly distinguish the surface of the water.

Thanks SkiJay. That is really useful information. I've been wanting to hear a comparison of the different versions of the same shape.

Like 34mph, I would be interested in a used 2017 67" Senate -- probably Graphite but maybe Lithium if price worked for me. I know it is personal taste, but I think the '17 graphics on the Senates are the best ever. I've been trying to figure out how to justify to my wife a purchase of a new one. "But it is such a beautiful ski" is not going to cut it for her.

My brother and I have been sharing the same ski most of our lives. We have the same size feet, are about the same weight and are both RFF. Always made sense for us. We also co-own our boat. Works great for us and makes the sport more affordable.

I got v9.10 recently and it definitely is better at not overshooting the speed when you throttle up compared to v8.06 that I had before.

Does anyone know what applying 35 lbs of force on laces feels like? For me, that is truly unhelpful information. However, it is probably better than saying "Do not tighten." Why would the laces even need to be there if you are not supposed to tighten them?

The 2018 Radar catalog (you can look at it on issuu.com) shows the 71" Senate only available in the Graphite and Alloy versions and not in the Lithium version.

@bbruzzese I have used Mobil Delvac in my '97 PS 190 before because it was available in my local auto parts store and checked all the boxes for an old engine with flat tappets. I don't actually even know what "flat tappets" means, but apparently when your engine has that it is good to use an oil with a high zinc content, which the Delvac apparently does.

Anyone know where someone in the Sacramento area can try on a Vapor boot? I called Radar, but the customer service person I spoke with could only give me names of Radar dealers in the area, which is already posted on their website. I tried calling a number of the dealers listed, but couldn't find any who could confirm whether or not they had the Vapor boot (they could answer lots of questions about wakeboard products, but ski products -- not so much).

@MattP and @Horton The issue for me is that I'd like to be able to mark threads I want to continue reading in the future when new posts are added but I don't want to be notified that new posts are added in threads I don't want to read. Currently, a thread gets "marked" simply by opening it if there is more than just the initial post is in the thread. In my snow skiing forum a thread only gets marked for me if I make a comment or check a box to "subscribe" to the thread and therefore get notified if new posts are added. Obviously, this is not a major issue and probably won't get anyone angry if not looked into until the fall. But it would ultimately be a really nice feature to be able to have control over which threads notify me that new posts have been added.

@Horton I am a little OCD and feel compelled to read the latest entries in a thread if I have read it before. The software you are using apparently automatically attaches my username to a thread if I open it after more than just the initial post is there. Sometimes I find out I am not really interested in a thread and don't want to read it anymore or sometimes I get weary of a given thread, but whenever new posts are added I continue to see the yellow highlight telling me new posts are there and how many there are. Is there a way I can remove my connection to any given thread so that I don't continue to see the yellow thread-update highlights? I would really like to be able to do this.