Jmoski

I flared up golfers elbow from lifting, I got it 95% better over the winter with the theraband twist bars. In addition to the suggestions above, I am fan of the masterline clinchers gloves with the dowel & strap that transfer the load to your bone structure. Initially you have to think about opening your hand as you release while going around the ball - but it’s second nature now for me anyways. You are more “locked in” to the handle in a crash, but it’s never been an issue for me. I get at 36mph this could be more problematic, but I’ not running that fast...

My friend has the Wakeye, I have the ski-orbit. I think the ski-orbit is easier for changing rope lengths and is less intrusive in the boat. I often put my hand on top of the pylon as I turn while entering or exiting the driver seat, you can’t do that with the wakeye. I run a gopro, note the ski-orbit doesn’t come with the gopro adapter. I love the Wakeye iPhone app speed control, I logged a request with Gopro to add the same auto on/off based on speed to their mobile app.

@BraceMaker - ah, I see. I hadn’t heard of that issue. Of interest on my 01 nautique it had a box in the back that the traditional pressure tubes from both pitot static tubes connected to which averaged & converted it to a digital signal that was routed forward to the digital gauge. When I swapped to the analog gauge it had the traditional barb connector for the pressure tube, hence I just had to pick one and runs new tube from the back to connect it.

The stock teleflex digital gauges on the nautiques of this era were faulty and would develop moisture problems causing the display to become unreadable over time. This primary affected the speedo and the tach/hour meter. They don’t make them anymore, so most people replaced them with Teleflex Analog (this was what I did) or Faria gauges. Of interest, notice on the dash the “N” filler panel for the center gauge is still there. Had the boat been ordered with PP - that’s where the gauge goes. SO - my guess is someone removed the broken speedo gauge and put PP in its place in the dash, which means IMHO the boat has more than the 400 hours it’s reading since it I doubt it has been there all along. Possible the current seller is unaware given he is the second owner and the gauges most likely went bad during the original owners time. @bracemaker - I don’t follow your question?

The Air Nautique is a sister to the Sport Nautique (open bow SN that’s 1.5’ longer) with a tower, rear ballast, and different graphics. I might have the catalog from 2001 in my closet, if I can find it I will get you the exact specs. It will ski well assuming you don’t fill the ballast! It’s the Super Air Nautique that has v-drive configuration that’s designed for wakeboarding and hence crappy for slalom. Unfortunately this boat has the dreaded teleflex gauges. The GT40 block doesn’t store hours, but the ad says it has perfect pass which should have it under the “system info” screen. My ski nautique from that year had the GT40 block - awesome low torque & growl on take off.

#3 in the top ten signs the water is frigid: The skier is holding the handle up with both hands out of the water while waiting for the boat to line up!

Couple thoughts - I agree with @bracemaker that you might need an extra cable or adapter to make it work with the OEM gauge. I replaced my tach/hourmeter on my old nautique (the dreaded teleflex gauges) and I hooked the new meter up to a car battery to wind the hours on so it read the actual engine hours once I plugged it in. My old nautique had the Ford GT40 block - awesome engine but it does not track hours, so if you ever buy a early 2000’s vintage boat with the GT40 you have trust the guy selling it to you is being honest about the hours as none with have the original gauge. I bet your ZO gauge displays the hours coming from the engine - so atleast you know where your at for performing maintenance. My Stargazer PP has it, just not obvious how to navigate to it.

@Horton - thanks for the link. After moving the arms to the forward holes on the mount its secure but still easy to clamp into the lock position. I did have to dial back my tension a 1/2 turn when I dock tested it before skiing on it. No falls yesterday (water is way to cold!). Of interest on my plate there aren't another set of holes for moving the mounts up. Not sure why they have two sets of holes in the mount, must be related to having one part to cover multiple plate sizes. Prior to making this adjustment I had pre-released a few times over last season, scary to think I ran an entire season that way. The core issue before was the heel could wiggle around a bit, moving the arms forward eliminated the play. I'm 99.9% sure Reflex (ordered it direct) sent it to me misconfigured, I sent them an email Friday to confirm - but I'm sure they were already gone for the weekend. The Syndicate hard shell does look awesome, I got a close look at them this past February while in Mexico.

Skied Friday afternoon and Saturday, today MA is back in 30's, so annoying.

Thanks everyone - will definitely retest the release after moving.

Hi Guys, I have the reflex 2.0 shell, and i’ve noticed there is a little bit of play with binding locked in. In looking at it more closely, I see there are two holes where the binding arms can be attached at the plate. When I move it to the inner position it seems perfect, but I can’t find anything in the manual that talks about it? If anyone else on here has the 2.0 shell with a #8 shell and can cross reference which hole your connected to - that would very helpful. Here is pic with mine moved to the more forward hole. Thanks

Does your MDX have a transmission cooler on it? I don’t know how they option them but given you didn’t have the hitch I wonder if you don’t have the cooler? Honda/Acura make good engines, transmissions - not so much. I would make sure you have the cooler if your going to tow regularly.

To help with tight hips and muscles I roll out my problem areas before running, lifting, skiing. I swear by the rogue supernova 2.0 ball for getting my hips, IT bands, etc. It digs in almost as much as a great massage therapist.

+1 on cold water = fast water My guess is the increase in surface tension is far more impactful on the skiers ability to accelerate than the negative acceleration influence of additional drag due to increased viscosity. Surface tension is what is pushing back on your ski as you press it against the water, the higher the tension - the harder you can push, the faster you go. We would have to rig a ski with a bunch of strain gauges and pressure transducers to know for sure.

Masterline padded roller, skidoc fin protector, and a 2’ section of the cardboard box the ski shipped in to give the front more structure and crush protection. 2 trips to Mexico and 2 to Florida thus far, no issues.

@jpattigr - yep, we are saying the same thing. Shape is consistent each year between the different vapor models - the core material is what changes with each model. Note, 2017 was the year the Pro Build version was introduced. I’m sure @eddie_roberts_jr can provide more detail since he designed them :-)

The pro build has a different material at the core (PMI) that makes it more responsive than the lithium vapor. I’ve skied my friends 2016 lithium vapor which led me to want one at the end of the season. I ended up getting a pro build. - I honestly can’t perceive a difference versus my pro at my level. There is a bigger difference with the 2018 pro build as they made changes to it in the shape. That’s why there are lots of 2017 pro builds on ski-it-again, everyone wants the 2018 despite the 2017 still being a great ski.

I suspect the Northern skiers having been shut out over the past 4-5 months are getting a bit punchy ;-) I know i’m chomping at the bit for ice out!

I was at the Orlando conference center last Sept and took a drive over one day, took me less than 30 minutes driving to get to perfski.

Separately - per the original post, once we resume skiing in a month I will take some pictures of the 2.0 & 3.0 side by side and post them.

I have the 2.0 super shell, one of my ski buddies got the 3.0 at the end of last season. He is very happy with it. As far as I can see, the main difference is it has the new 840 silveretta release mechanism that is more vertically oriented than the 750 on my shell. One can retro fit the 2.0 shell with the 840 release - I am interested in that due to the stainless steel arms as I have a fair amount of rust on mine. Visual inspection leads me to believe the heel cup is the same, and the boot itself is the same- just different colors, I was hoping they improved both over the 2.0 to eliminate a small amount of play I experience. I sent in a question on this topic to reflex on their website (actual changes between 2.0 & 3.0) - no response yet. While at ski paradise (which rocks by the way if you’ve never been) this Feb I got a close look at the latest version of the HO Syndicate hardshell, it’s impressively engineered - the boot fits into the plate like a glove - there is zero play when locked in. The HO has the same 750 silveretta release as the 2.0 reflex. Only advantage the reflex shell has is better ankle mobility and range of motion, the HO shell is very rigid in comparison.

@jaypro - no good friends with a tow rug that would help you out? I day tripped with my friend to NH from MA to bring home his new to him MC with my Tundra, granted it was shorter trip... Maybe you need a BOS member based cross country tow relay, I will happily pull the MA —> Vermont leg :-)

The Correct Craft dealer on lake george in NY has two used SV 211 (Nautique cross over) boats that might worth looking at. http://www.adirondackmarine.net/pre-owned-boats.php I bought my 2006 SN from them - great people. They let me ski test it prior to buying.

+1 on going with a new gauge - some of the older ones, like the original PP gauge in my ‘06 Nautique, crapped out over time due to moisture problems. The newer gauge has resolved the issue.

Yosemite is a must on your trip, even if your not a big outdoors person, it’s a place you have to see in person.