prettig

10 years on approach, last year I changed ski to V-type R (from Monza) but not the boots (not too much at once). Yesterday I put on Radar Vapor's (double boots). 2 sets and skied immediately better at all runs ! Far more feel, angel and control. For me perfect transition.......just take you time to perfectly match your current boot setup (took me 2 hours off fiddling, measuring, tape, etc.....). So I matched the Approach bindings setup as close as possible.

you can screw them directly to the ski, but lots of systems have the neck washer to allow the ski to flex at the boot. Fixing it with 6 screws means the ski has far less flex at the full length of the plate. So you might as well buy a cheap ski.

LINK I have 2 plates (2016 radar vapor boots). Need the mounting instructions for the front plate. Got the boot new with front plate, but without the 4 threaded neck washers. In my opinion you need these to allow the ski to flex. The dealer keeps telling me: no just screw directly to the ski !

not that difficult..... depending on the size of the lake (small lake simple set will do). Wifi can go miles....but then the equipment gets expensive (mile or more and moving....$$$). Used 2x enginus ecb9500 (older set I had laying around) with standard antenna's, larger antenna's will get you more coverage. Nice thing about lakes..... almost no reflection !

...... just tested a WIFI lan to the boat on our ski lake......mounted a 2 megapixel camera (on swivel) and now we can watch (on 55"tv) and record the passes from the shore.....(wireless analog we already had working). Once we finalize the setup I will post some video's.

@wish 2006-2007 for most (but not all already had ZO from factory......so you need to check if possible, you might need more modifications!)

Response LX (2006), throttle by wire with z-box: almost the same as ZO.... really nice (already a few years skiing with it). Buddy: SN 196 from 2003: cable.....due to cable a bit less responsive, but still very good. Settle down is a lot slower ...... so for short setup....you have to test ! Ski behind these boats and 2 x SN200, both with ZO (single and dual puck). So can compare.

I never look at the speedo... only at the result at the end: ok or not ? You can get detailed course timings per section after the run. View Timing Recap Information in the manual (not speed but seconds per ball).

haha.....i bought the V-type r and put the old approach bindings on it......and she said.... the colors do not match !

@LeonL ..... there are differences (hull, power, etc .....) and you do feel it. But we feel: the same boat ZO or z-box..... pretty small difference (but yes it's there). All other PP systems.... I agree fully: big difference with ZO. @thager ZO on cable !.... how did you do that ? REALLY intersting to know......lot's of people install PP because they have cable throttle and think that's the only option. And if I have to choose: ZO (just because it's the competition standard).

the graphs are indeed indicational. PP has 3 (in general) versions: - classic (magnet timing and optional switch), the ONE line display - stargazer (magnet or GPS), multi line display - Stargazer + Z-box (GPS, no magnets, ZO simulation, with accelerometer) --> this is the one I compare with ZO ! Then, throttle: cable or wire: - Z-Box with drive by wire is as responsive as ZO (z-box with cable is not) - Drive by wire also means: fuel injected engine (far more responsive than carburator) - Any cable throttle is just slower (always) - This means approx. a 2006/2007 or later model boat (throttle-by-wire got introduced during these years) ZO is only available on drive by wire boats. (no retrofit on cable throttle) Upgrade or not: With Cable throttle: - you have one option: PP Wire throttle: With PP already installed and multiline display. - z-box is plug and play (DIY-15 minutes) and far less expensive - PP has excellent support - or replace with ZO, more expensive to buy, more expensive to install (no DIY) - CHECK with your dealer if it works on your boat and engine (mine needed a NEW engine cable loom) - ZO is 99% factory installed and their support.....lets say it took me a "while" to find out if and how it could be installed in my boat. Nothing installed: - Both PP z-box and ZO would work (but ZO with installation is far more expensive than PP z-box). AND for ZO CHECK if at all possible in your boat.

@LeonL .... sorry but disagree...... you are correct "classic" or stargazer PP is no match with ZO. Z-box is (several guys here ski short lines ... 12m and shorter behind both system, 3 different boats).......almost no difference. Power off the boat, model, etc (let's say after year 2000 or so) ..... does not matter..... good ski-boats are all powerfull enough, wakes all flat (on real slalom boats). But needs to be setup correctly and then they all operate the same: just look at the full course timing figures after the run......you might need small adjustments to your PP z-box setup. To give you an example: i have an 2006 LX, friend a "not so well" maintained LXI with z-box. First difference is the hull (you feel the difference), then his power is rubish (not firm). So I do not ski behind his boat......my LX close to the SN 200 (200 wakes are slightly better at short lines). So a modern close to "stock" (so still enough power) boat setup correctly will work fine for most (unless you are into 10,25m or so). Line: old or new.....!? Drivers..... YES ! (some drive like they are drunk) p.s. who uses A settings ? (never understood A...... pulling after the wake !)

http://www.schnitzskis.com/images/626_Daves_ZO_Chart_A.jpg Above is zero off...... classic (stargazer) PP is like B1-B2: so in the middle, buit a bit longer (starts earlier and ends later). Did ski behind stargazer as well......more easy (you think) .... once used to ZO or z-box....far better. PP with Z-box (i ski behind both ZO and Z-box), if setup correctly..... almost the same as ZO (I am on C1.... so early pull right after the bouy). A,B,C: the moment 1,2,3: intensity http://www.schnitzskis.com/images/926_stargazer_settings.jpg

thx...will check again (on the zero off I did not see it in practice mode). But good to know it keeps it's setting. p.s. what version or year is your zero off (maybe that also makes a difference) ?

Question: pratice mode Yesterday on ZO: the A,B, C is gone ! It feels different (I ski C and feels like B ). Anybody knows what happens to these settings when in pratice mode ?

http://www.mysticboarding.com/products/men/impact-floatation-wakeboard/majestic-d3o-impact-vest/#color_000000 Mystic has a D3O vest ! But wakeboard vest, so not sure if ok for slalom ? (slalom vest shorter ?) D3O is really an interesting impact material.

@Horton ..... micro-just.. thx (never seen it before......but europe does not have all the stuff you guys have on the market). DFT: I always measure from the bottom (curved edge) and never the top..... for me this is logical because that's is the end of the ski (the bottom). The factory setup out-of-the-box was exactly as published (measured from the bottom). So i guess this is how HO measures it.

@savaiusini ....... THX FOR THE INFO ! (btw .... great ski) Just to clarify: Factory for me is measure and setup as published (and yes out-off-the-box FIN was a little off). Did a few more sets .....still with ONLY the front binding ONE hole forward from factory and so far great (angle, speed, control, turns). So this setup works for me. Next week I will try factory for the front foot (one hole back is exactly factory... I did measure it). Back foot I will not change. p.s. My plate only allows me to move by hole......any ideas on how to move 1/2 hole or slide a bit (in a way it still keeps the position locked) ?

Front foot question on VTR (skiing on it since last year, few passes last year now already a month) ? Background: - on my Monza (HO double approach bindings) I had the front foot a bit forward (i always had that on all skies) - The monza was 67" (skied on it for 10 years and at that time 67" was ok) - The VTR is 66" (better for my weight and my skiing is far more stable) Setup: - I kept fin at factory (only tested with less angle...... way too much speed at the bouy... this thing is fast... not recommended) - Used the same bindings (did not want to change to many things at once) - Put the bindings on the same as on the Monza: so front foot one hole forward (one back would be exactly factory). - Back foot same as factory (so almost touching if both would be factory setup). Now one hole between them. Question: - Current setup works fine, BUT feels like the tip is to much into the water (off side ... fast deep turns, but feels like breaking a bit too much....still fast). On side ok. - If I look at the tip during the turns I see it is riding far more deeper then I am used to with the Monza. - Want to test Front foot back to factory ... any ideas ? Maybe compensate a bit with the fin or just keep it that way and test. - The ski feels really neutral/stable. I tried pushing back and front in turns to see what it does.... you can do a turn on the back ! Nothing really strange happens. Anyone else tested with bindings positions ? p.s. In general.... crazy ski ! (much faster, turns like crazy.... ), so loving it and still a lot to discover.

ripple for me.... glass: ski keeps searching for edge, so if glass we always brake it before we start...

started 3e week of march .....(as soon it hits 46-47 we go)

same here (years ago)... nothing they can do..... but you can still ski ! Skiing did go ok, try to skip the start (haha... really hurts) and do not fall. Not recommended by the way (one good fall and you rib is gone again).

had time to clean my nose.....and all 6....made me happy

yes sold.... i bought it (thx to rawly), but thx anyway for the tip (appreciated)

my buddy thought they needed some water....