-
Posts
62 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
BallOfSpray Posts
Events
Downloads
Store
Gallery
Quizzes
Posts posted by prettig
-
-
you can screw them directly to the ski, but lots of systems have the neck washer to allow the ski to flex at the boot. Fixing it with 6 screws means the ski has far less flex at the full length of the plate. So you might as well buy a cheap ski.
-
I have 2 plates (2016 radar vapor boots). Need the mounting instructions for the front plate.
Got the boot new with front plate, but without the 4 threaded neck washers. In my opinion you need these to allow the ski to flex.
The dealer keeps telling me: no just screw directly to the ski !
-
not that difficult..... depending on the size of the lake (small lake simple set will do). Wifi can go miles....but then the equipment gets expensive (mile or more and moving....$$$).
Used 2x enginus ecb9500 (older set I had laying around) with standard antenna's, larger antenna's will get you more coverage.
Nice thing about lakes..... almost no reflection !
-
...... just tested a WIFI lan to the boat on our ski lake......mounted a 2 megapixel camera (on swivel) and now we can watch (on 55"tv) and record the passes from the shore.....(wireless analog we already had working).
Once we finalize the setup I will post some video's.
-
@wish 2006-2007 for most (but not all already had ZO from factory......so you need to check if possible, you might need more modifications!)
-
Response LX (2006), throttle by wire with z-box: almost the same as ZO.... really nice (already a few years skiing with it).
Buddy: SN 196 from 2003: cable.....due to cable a bit less responsive, but still very good. Settle down is a lot slower ...... so for short setup....you have to test !
Ski behind these boats and 2 x SN200, both with ZO (single and dual puck). So can compare.
-
I never look at the speedo... only at the result at the end: ok or not ?
You can get detailed course timings per section after the run.
View Timing Recap Information in the manual (not speed but seconds per ball).
-
haha.....i bought the V-type r and put the old approach bindings on it......and she said.... the colors do not match !
-
@LeonL ..... there are differences (hull, power, etc .....) and you do feel it. But we feel: the same boat ZO or z-box..... pretty small difference (but yes it's there). All other PP systems.... I agree fully: big difference with ZO.
@thager ZO on cable !.... how did you do that ? REALLY intersting to know......lot's of people install PP because they have cable throttle and think that's the only option.
And if I have to choose: ZO (just because it's the competition standard).
-
the graphs are indeed indicational.
PP has 3 (in general) versions:
- classic (magnet timing and optional switch), the ONE line display
- stargazer (magnet or GPS), multi line display
- Stargazer + Z-box (GPS, no magnets, ZO simulation, with accelerometer) --> this is the one I compare with ZO !
Then, throttle: cable or wire:
- Z-Box with drive by wire is as responsive as ZO (z-box with cable is not)
- Drive by wire also means: fuel injected engine (far more responsive than carburator)
- Any cable throttle is just slower (always)
- This means approx. a 2006/2007 or later model boat (throttle-by-wire got introduced during these years)
ZO is only available on drive by wire boats. (no retrofit on cable throttle)
Upgrade or not:
With Cable throttle:
- you have one option: PP
Wire throttle:
With PP already installed and multiline display.
- z-box is plug and play (DIY-15 minutes) and far less expensive
- PP has excellent support
- or replace with ZO, more expensive to buy, more expensive to install (no DIY)
- CHECK with your dealer if it works on your boat and engine (mine needed a NEW engine cable loom)
- ZO is 99% factory installed and their support.....lets say it took me a "while" to find out if and how it could be installed in my boat.
Nothing installed:
- Both PP z-box and ZO would work (but ZO with installation is far more expensive than PP z-box). AND for ZO CHECK if at all possible in your boat.
-
@LeonL .... sorry but disagree...... you are correct "classic" or stargazer PP is no match with ZO.
Z-box is (several guys here ski short lines ... 12m and shorter behind both system, 3 different boats).......almost no difference.
Power off the boat, model, etc (let's say after year 2000 or so) ..... does not matter..... good ski-boats are all powerfull enough, wakes all flat (on real slalom boats).
But needs to be setup correctly and then they all operate the same: just look at the full course timing figures after the run......you might need small adjustments to your PP z-box setup.
To give you an example: i have an 2006 LX, friend a "not so well" maintained LXI with z-box. First difference is the hull (you feel the difference), then his power is rubish (not firm). So I do not ski behind his boat......my LX close to the SN 200 (200 wakes are slightly better at short lines).
So a modern close to "stock" (so still enough power) boat setup correctly will work fine for most (unless you are into 10,25m or so).
Line: old or new.....!?
Drivers..... YES ! (some drive like they are drunk)
p.s. who uses A settings ? (never understood A...... pulling after the wake !)
-
http://www.schnitzskis.com/images/626_Daves_ZO_Chart_A.jpg
Above is zero off...... classic (stargazer) PP is like B1-B2: so in the middle, buit a bit longer (starts earlier and ends later). Did ski behind stargazer as well......more easy (you think) .... once used to ZO or z-box....far better.
PP with Z-box (i ski behind both ZO and Z-box), if setup correctly..... almost the same as ZO (I am on C1.... so early pull right after the bouy).
A,B,C: the moment
1,2,3: intensity
http://www.schnitzskis.com/images/926_stargazer_settings.jpg
-
thx...will check again (on the zero off I did not see it in practice mode). But good to know it keeps it's setting.
p.s. what version or year is your zero off (maybe that also makes a difference) ?
-
Question: pratice mode
Yesterday on ZO: the A,B, C is gone !
It feels different (I ski C and feels like B ).
Anybody knows what happens to these settings when in pratice mode ?
-
Mystic has a D3O vest ! But wakeboard vest, so not sure if ok for slalom ? (slalom vest shorter ?)
D3O is really an interesting impact material.
-
@Horton ..... micro-just.. thx (never seen it before......but europe does not have all the stuff you guys have on the market).
DFT:
I always measure from the bottom (curved edge) and never the top..... for me this is logical because that's is the end of the ski (the bottom).
The factory setup out-of-the-box was exactly as published (measured from the bottom).
So i guess this is how HO measures it.
-
@savaiusini ....... THX FOR THE INFO ! (btw .... great ski)
Just to clarify:
Factory for me is measure and setup as published (and yes out-off-the-box FIN was a little off).
Did a few more sets .....still with ONLY the front binding ONE hole forward from factory and so far great (angle, speed, control, turns). So this setup works for me.
Next week I will try factory for the front foot (one hole back is exactly factory... I did measure it). Back foot I will not change.
p.s. My plate only allows me to move by hole......any ideas on how to move 1/2 hole or slide a bit (in a way it still keeps the position locked) ?
-
Front foot question on VTR (skiing on it since last year, few passes last year now already a month) ?
Background:
- on my Monza (HO double approach bindings) I had the front foot a bit forward (i always had that on all skies)
- The monza was 67" (skied on it for 10 years and at that time 67" was ok)
- The VTR is 66" (better for my weight and my skiing is far more stable)
Setup:
- I kept fin at factory (only tested with less angle...... way too much speed at the bouy... this thing is fast... not recommended)
- Used the same bindings (did not want to change to many things at once)
- Put the bindings on the same as on the Monza: so front foot one hole forward (one back would be exactly factory).
- Back foot same as factory (so almost touching if both would be factory setup). Now one hole between them.
Question:
- Current setup works fine, BUT feels like the tip is to much into the water (off side ... fast deep turns, but feels like breaking a bit too much....still fast). On side ok.
- If I look at the tip during the turns I see it is riding far more deeper then I am used to with the Monza.
- Want to test Front foot back to factory ... any ideas ? Maybe compensate a bit with the fin or just keep it that way and test.
- The ski feels really neutral/stable. I tried pushing back and front in turns to see what it does.... you can do a turn on the back ! Nothing really strange happens.
Anyone else tested with bindings positions ?
p.s. In general.... crazy ski ! (much faster, turns like crazy.... ), so loving it and still a lot to discover.
-
ripple for me.... glass: ski keeps searching for edge, so if glass we always brake it before we start...
-
started 3e week of march .....(as soon it hits 46-47 we go)
-
same here (years ago)... nothing they can do..... but you can still ski !
Skiing did go ok, try to skip the start (haha... really hurts) and do not fall.
Not recommended by the way (one good fall and you rib is gone again).
-
had time to clean my nose.....and all 6....made me happy
-
yes sold.... i bought it (thx to rawly), but thx anyway for the tip (appreciated)
-
my buddy thought they needed some water....
Best boot to replace the Approach Binding
in Skis Fins Bindings
Posted
10 years on approach, last year I changed ski to V-type R (from Monza) but not the boots (not too much at once).
Yesterday I put on Radar Vapor's (double boots). 2 sets and skied immediately better at all runs ! Far more feel, angel and control.
For me perfect transition.......just take you time to perfectly match your current boot setup (took me 2 hours off fiddling, measuring, tape, etc.....). So I matched the Approach bindings setup as close as possible.