S1Pitts

One of my ski partners purchased a unit last week. They shipped him a Ver 8

@kcross This was discussed last week in this thread. I posted some info on linkage alignment and tensioning the return spring. http://www.ballofspray.com/forum#/discussion/17123/perfect-pass

@Dacon62 Boat is an hr away sorry. I attached a quick sketch of my grade school drawing skills so hope you can get what I mean. The best way to visualize this is to be looking at the end of the throttle shaft - represented by the intersecting lines. The attachment point of the spring keeps it square to the average of your chosen speed range. I use 30-36 as a rule. This keeps the spring rate closer to being linear. Depending on the engine / throttle lever combination this can get challenging. I have in some cases tossed the supplied spring in favor of a shorter but stronger spring and had to make spring mounts to anchor to. I also keep the spring out board of the throttle lever as much as possible. KR

For all those having surging, over speed or other throttle type issues with StarGazer - after tuning a great number of systems in various hulls I have learned that the servo / throttle return spring position/pressure is key to getting a boat that runs up and locks down speed in short order. I begin by removing the engine cover and having a driver run the boat to identify the throttle position at 30 mph to 36 mph in order to identify the "range of throttle position". I then move the non throttle arm end mounting point for the add on return spring supplied to have it positioned 90 degrees in relationship to the throttle shaft/spring mounting point on the throttle arm and the final mounting point on the opposite end of the spring. Run up from a hole shot to ski speed and the throttle motion should settle about the same time as the beep emits that target speed was hit. If it continues to hunt looking for set speed then there is not enough spring pull so try shorten the spring a bit and retry. If it improves continue to shorten until you are happy with the results. If it worsens after shortening go the other way by either lengthening the spring or moving the attachment point. Personally I use a long zip tied looped on the spring attachment point to be able to slowly close the loop effectively tightening the spring. In some cases cutting the spring was required. In most cases spring pull was needed to be increased. I hope this helps some of you guys out. KR

Still have one in the shed along with a Mach 1, VTX, CDX, Turbo Mach, VTR, to name a few. Still ride them now and then for fun.

I had the same issue with my Strada. I used a thin viscosity C/A glue that is foam safe just to make sure the glue did not get to the core and damage it. Pulled the top sheet down with masking tape and sanded off excess when dry. Did not have and issue after using it for 2 more seasons.

Columbia Lake - Birth place of the mighty Columbia River. I skied this lake for 3 years and rarely was there another boat on the lake. Approx 11 miles of glass dead ahead.

September evening in the Canadian Rockies

@mwetskier - my winterizing trick - I made up some jumper hoses that results in a circuit that starts at the shower pump > to the heater hoses > and back to the shower hose. Add a jug of RV antifreeze and I use the pump to fill the lines so when the pink runs out of the shower head it's done. Uses 1/2 gallon each time so it's cheap insurance that the heater core remains intact for next season. My old ski partner also included his engine block in the circuit after capping off the exhaust hoses. This method was successful for 6 ys when living north of 54 that saw winter temps well below -40 F.

Just a thought here but the rubber appears somewhat similar material to the latex seals on dry suits only thicker. Has anyone tried using the products available to maintain these seals on the bindings? I know I can double the life of my seals by using theses products.

@Fehlindra - Shots of shower pick up points on my GT 40.

On my GT 40 - The hot water comes from the block drain on the passenger side and the cold comes from a fitting in the raw water pick up hose post impeller pump. The mixing taps are attached to the exhaust hose passenger side with the pump mounted on the floor directly below. The pump discharge hose then travels through bilge to stern and comes out at the back seat. I will post you some pics after work if someone does not beat me to it. I would not have a boat without one but being from the great white north it makes a bit more sense however the cooler summer we had it got used a lot when we had to ski before 6 am to beat the damned surf boats to the water. KR