Jetsetr

Didn’t forget the needle???

I swapped fixed to adjustable on a MC S&S...made getting float height set a lot easier with the non level carb in the earlier boats. We had an issue with fuel just dripping thru the Venturi causing a little bit rich condition @ idle, and after a while the engine would load up. However, removing the float bowl really isn’t that big of a deal for fine tuning the float. Like Wayne said if you turn it upside down and the float is level that’s going to get you pretty close. I think you have something stuck in the needle or a bad float for as much fuel that was going thru.

@Wayne The pics of the internal float bowl assembly was from my 4160 with the adjustable floats. Was just showing the OP what’s inside. If I remember the non adjustable floats are a bit different, with a “arm” that you bend to adjust the level. Great tips on the power valve and vent tubes. That was a LOT of fuel to make a mess like that!

 

@MDB1056 Never had much luck with Q-Jets...lot of people do REALLY like them though...

If it was a Rochester Quadrajet I would tell you shit can it and get a Holley! Have a Edelbrock (Carter) 1409 on the SBC in the Malibu. It sat for 4+ years and I just changed the accelerator pump and it runs perfect (another simple carb to work on)...

Pic 1 Inside float bowl. White plastic guard comes right out. Brass vertical thing is the needle and seat assembly.

Pic 2 needle and seat removed, that small clip holds the float on.

Pic 3 transfer tube and O ring

Pic 4 needle and seat assembly.

This is a externally adjustable float bowl, what you have is similar. See if there’s any debris holding the needle off the seat. Shake the float and see if there’s any gas in it. If so it’s junk replace it.

@Orlando76 I totally understand your point/position....

@GaryWilkinson remove the 4 bolts/screws in the corner of the float bowl. Also remove the fuel line (and use the correct wrenches or fuel line wrenches so you don’t round off the nut). Remove the fuel line FIRST. You can do all of this with the carb still on the engine, but you will need to catch the fuel in the bowl. Not that much, but enough to make a mess and fire hazard.

 

SAVE yourself a bunch of trouble and buy some blue float bowl gaskets and transfer tube O rings first! Nothing more frustrating than to have fixed the problem and and have the transfer tube leaking fuel and ya have to take it apart agin. Just replace them when the bowl is off, and make sure they’re not rolled and seated properly. I use a touch of a product called “fuel lube” but a touch of grease works well too, it lets them move a bit while installing. As mentioned the blue float bowl gaskets can be reused a few times. I’m guessing the needle is stuck wide open for some reason (junk, or hung up) or you have a bad float. A bad float will sink and keep the needle open all the time.

 

Where are you located???? If close I will fix it for you if it’s still giving you trouble.

 

These carbs are REALLY simple...

I have a 4160 on the shelve here and will take some pics of the internals for you...

 

@Orlando76 I’m really not into throwing $650-750 away on a new carb to fix a really simple problem, and as someone who grew up with nothing I always had to at least TRY to repair stuff.

 

Feel free to PM and I can give you my phone number if you’re still having trouble.

 

 

69/70....

@Ski_Dad AWESOME....thanks

Yup agree. Probably leaving the fin alone, it’s just a Butterknife. Gonna move the boot/RTP fwd one hole and see if it makes any difference.

I swapped the adjustable bowls onto my 4160. Pretty sure your correct Orlando76.

The Holley 4160’s either have non adjustable float bowls or adjustable...

I’m THINKING you have a stuck float/needle and seat or two. Tap the float bowl with a hammer (seriously) sometimes that’s enough.

 

Otherwise you need to remove the bowl and slightly bend the float tab to lower the float.

Pull the air cleaner off and see which side is dumping the fuel in...report back and we will go from there.

@Ski_Dad I have had this ski for 3 years now...it’s not new, and it’s always been tail low.

 

@BraceMaker I’m not saying I am going to move it, I’m more interested in WHAT moving the fin forward or aft REALLY DOES...

 

There is a reason they make everything adjustable, I would like to know that those adjustments ACTUALLY DO.....numbers and setting are just numbers and settings if you don’t know what they actually mean/do.

@BraceMaker I was pretty tired by the time the pics were taken ( skied pretty hard for about a mile and a half in rough water and rollers) but I DO need to work on getting the handle lower and standing a bit ( a lot) taller.

I have a 69” Senate with a double boot set up also. These pics were unfortunately the first time out free skiing this year, so I’m not in ski shape yet. The BK is so forgiving and easy to ski that I like to work on form with this ski. It is waaay different than the Senate. Still breaking in the new engine in the boat and I just wanted to ski a bit.

 

Radar folks are helping out with the Senate, might remove the rear Vector boot and try the HRTP. My heel moves around too much with the standard RTP and my front leg carries most of my weight. Maybe I should just ski the Senate all the time a touch faster and see how that looks/feels.

 

@Rednucleus have nothing to lose by moving fwd one hole on the BK will try that and see what happens.

 

So what are the thoughts on fin fore/aft adjustments? What does moving the fin forward or aft DO?

 

 

Just wondering:

Pretty much all the pics/video of me skiing my BK as well as the video of the BK on the Radar site show this ski riding tail low...

Standard boot in front with a standard RTP.

Boot is in the center of the 5 adjusting holes, same for the RTP.

Rear fin is also in the center of the 3 hole fore/aft adjustment area.

This is being skied at 26/30mph tops.

69” ski 190 pounds

What impact would moving the boots forward a bit? One hole looks to be about 1/4 inch.

Moving the fin forward?

 

I DONT understand the effects of boot/fin placement, but thinking 1 forward for the boot wouldn’t have a huge impact other than maybe getting weight a bit further forward, thus more engagement.

HOWEVER, I could be TOTALLY wrong...

NO CLUE what fin fore/aft does...

 

Looking to be educated...thanks in advance...

Fire away...

 

 

Shameless Plug: My 1989 Brendella Short Line Comp is for sale

1005 hours total time, solid hull, decent original interior, will get some interior pics up soon. Runs great, GPS speedo, fresh oil/filter, decent trailer. PM for any additional info required. Runs perfect, fun boat, really decent wake for a dinosaur. $6K? Offer?

 

Where?

The first short line comps were POSSIBLY MC hull designs (1985 S&S hulls) for the most part with some improvement. Mine is a 1989 Short Line Comp, and when I put it next to the 78 MC S&S you can see the lines to a degree but they are quite a bit different, however there’s 10 years plus difference in production as well.

I COULD BE TOTALLY WRONG...

Someone here who has been around a lot longer than I have probably knows the real story better than I do...if so PLEASE share...

@RichardDoane

 

 

@Orlando76 I feel special: I’m a 3 1/4rrr!

I like simple...I’m a simple guy.

I guess I’m one of the goofs that likes the old stuff better than the new...

Any info on that resin???? Wasn’t aware of that. Thanks

Will do!

Good job...smart way to do it...

I raced stand up jet skis in the late 80’s-90’s. Used a Veleo brace back then. Fortunately I don’t have back issues when skiing, but this product looks pretty interesting and well built...

@Wish $3500 delivered to the door....