skialex

Few years ago some friends where meshing with another friend's fin, they put it backwards without touching the wing, the guy was skiing -15 at lower speeds, he run the course as usual and find out only when they show him the video of the whole prank!

I carry my ski in my car, I live in Greece it's very hot in the summer but I do not usually leave it in the car for very long. Some times when I going skiing in the afternoon after work I leave it for about 6 hours in the car but it is always covered in a ski cover and away from any direct exposure to the sun. Even when walking down to the dock I carry my ski in a ski cover and take it out only minutes before skiing.

Direct exposure is what kills the ski not heat in general.

Arms pinned to the vest!

Few skiers run double Reflex but to my belief most skiers want the rear boot to allow for some movement that is why Goode uses a set of springs on the rear boot to allow heel lift or Reflex sells the R-style that also allow for some movement, some use rubber rear boot such as Wiley's and of course RTPs.

It all comes down to personal preference.

Also to my opinion I think that use of double Silvrettas do not guarantee that will release simultaneously!

R style is much safer choice

 

I do not release more than two-three times a season, this season I have released only once. I work on my stack and avoid OTFs at all cost.

@Cam yes you might be right, I always set it just bellow 7 and I also weight 180 Lbs but it releases when needed without any stress to my foot, tendon etc. there is a possibility that my custom Teflon heel block stresses the release more than it should, I have trimmed it down a little, a year ago but as we can see it did not make a difference. It could be the tension, what number do you set it at?

@liquid d‌ I have not crashed yet whereas other friends of mine have crashed multiple time due to broken springs or poorly maintained systems.

You might be right about the sideways release and the stress to the metal!

@Cam I have a stash of new 404s and my broken ones have no corrosion at all and I too use them in salt and fresh water but every time I go back home I use my air compressor to dry the moisture and then I spray it with silicon spray, see the photo below, no rust!

@DanE‌ 750 is exactly the same as the 500 with a new better coated spring and a stainless steel screw. Spring should last longer than on the 500 and whoever wants to upgrade can buy the new spring and screw for €14 at Reflex.

@Cam‌ I'm definitely not an aggressive skier, I'm trying hard to be more technical, ski equipment lasts for great time with no breaks or unusual wear except for the releases and they always break at the same side. I put a new 400 and we'll see!

@DanE‌ @Waternut‌ I will try to explain the why, forgive any language mistakes, English is not my native language.

You know that all alpine bindings and boots manufactures have adopted a universal standardize fit for their products and for at least the last 50 years any boot fits to any binding, that is also the case with Silvretta. If you take the alpine version of 404 or 500 you can use them with any alpine boot but for the 500 in order to clip at the same position the release is attached to an extra lever which is attached on the plate. When you take the rear release only and use it on a Reflex plate the 400-404 clips like on an alpine boot whereas the 500 clips on the heel block on a different height that is why they made a new heel block for the newer models and you have to respect the 57mm otherwise the system can release without warning. I prefer the security that the 404 gives, furthermore on the 500 the spring brakes and you crash without knowing why ( they now change the spring to the 750).

I believe, to my opinion anyway, that 500-750 should be attached to different Bases to compensate for the height difference and not to a higher heel block.

All the above is my personal opinion on why I prefer the older releases over the newer ones.

I'm putting now a 400 which has the welds higher on the straight part and hopefully it will last longer!

Alex,

 

I really prefer 404 over the newer ones but I break one every year, no crashes after the first one 4 years ago. I'm lucky but I also feel it and stop before the crash, I will put a 400 and see if it lasts! Anyone with similar issues?

I had a broken handle before and it's nasty, but this one looks ok when I inspect the rope, I have it for over two seasons though but looks like new no signs of wear.

I'm worrying that you might be right though, thanks @LeonL‌

 

I was just before the drop and realized that my handle is not straight(rope). It could be recent or it could be like this for a long time.

Do you think that it can affect my skiing or should I forget about it and keep using it as it is not important?

I can do it at the boom but have not tried it for the past 10 years.

I have changed my mind, I just got in the car which was under the sun for about three hours and the ski (with a ski cover) that I had left inside was super hot, not my ski!

 

@eleeski‌ you are really great with your R&D and all this ski related knowledge, I keep my skis away from the sun at all time, use a fleece cover or a towel when I'm on the dock before skiing. Direct exposure is what kills the carbon, temperature does not rise if ski is covered.

I too like to freshen the bottom of my ski when it gets slicky, I use SEM classic clear or black or any other color, fillers for the big scratches, scotch bright, sandpaper and make the ski look like and ski like new.

Cut the front of the shell some more to where the arms of the Silvretta touch it.

Good luck,

Alex

Eagle vests are thin and not stretchy at the sides giving more support to the ribs than the gooru. Also because they are thin and fit well on you they do not catch during a fall giving a better chance to slide (also good for the ribs).

The looks is the best, flotation is an issue though.

Alex,

I do not have everything new but I have at least one identical part of everything except a second ski. My previous ski can do the job in an emergency case. If something else fails I can change it in an instant and ski with out having to adjust to different equipment.

Loosen your grip and let the handle roll closer to your fingertips, improve your stack and use your hands as an extention of the rope

I ski Reflex with a RTP, toes are under the heel block almost touching front boot and it works great for me. Two weeks ago I had forgotten to take my boot and had to ski on my spare which is a newer model with the block upside down , It was blocking my toes to seat as close as usually do and the result was a more radical onside (it was like I had changed ski settings).

In your case you have the shell and the liner between your toes and front shell, I would cut the tip of the shell in order for the liner to sit closer to the front heel, I believe it worth the try and the risk of throwing away a good boot.

If over tightening the buckles is also an issue, I solved that by taking off the buckles like in the picture below, result is also a cleaner longer lasting boot.

Good luck,

Alex,

@Than_Bogan‌ is it possible to move rear boot forward without moving the front one? Do your best to gain that 1/4" , it can make great difference!

Good luck!