Gern Blanston

http://schnitzskis.com/skitips/boatdriving.html will get you there.

Tuney - Remember draft numbers are at idle, or no thrust. If you give it throttle, the bow of the boat rises and the stern bites into the water. So, to get to plane, you need more than the minimum amount of draft.  If the bow rises 2 feet (I think that's a conservative estimate) when you goose it, you'll need that much more water under your prop. I'm getting the impression you don't drive very often? If that's the case, my advice is to practice, practice, practice. Driving an inboard is not the easiest thing in the world. There's very little directional control when you're at low or no thrust. There's even less in reverse.  I used to pick out a bouy and practice pulling up to it like it were a dock or a skier. Schnitzskis.com has a pretty good, albeit preachy, section on how to drive properly. I'd reference it, but have a hard time finding stuff on his site. (I also find it ironic that he has a section for 'safety' on his site, and then there's a picture of him not wearing a vest)

Draft on the sportster is only like 18" if I recall correctly (that may be a big IF). Draft on my ps197 is 22" The sporty is like 600 lbs lighter. Of course if you load the boat up with a bunch of guys and their equipment, your draft will increase. as long as the lake bed is mucky, you'll be fine pushing it. If it's rocky, that's obviously a different story.

I'd have a mechanic check over the engine to make sure it's in good working order if you're buying from a person rather than a dealer. I'd check the hull for stress cracks - especially if you want to get The Wedge. That's a lot of pressure to put on the stern. If you have any concerns, take a hose and stick it into the engine box, then turn it on. If water comes out of the hull anywhere, then you have a leak.  That's probably not a boat you'll want to buy.  ski-it-again.com also has inboards listed.  I had a Malibu Sportster for my first boat. It's a good bang for the buck boat. It's lighter than the Response but with the same engine. It's got a great table for footing. I like my MC 197 a whole lot better - but it also costs a lot more. If you opt for an MC, I'd stay away from like 98 to 02. The hull before (I think) 98 is....different and the one after 02 is what's currently out.

Stevie, let me guess - new: Goode; used: D3  I have a Nomad and love it. It's not as stiff as my NRCX, so I use it early and late in the season when the water is colder.

Chef -  I sucked in a candy wrapper of all things. It covered the strainer holes and caused my water pump to blow. because of that, I put an inline strainer in prior to the impeller.ÂÂ

I think elee hinted at something that might also be an issue. The seals and gaskets tend to dry out when an engine sits for lengthy periods of time. I don't believe that will necessarily relate to overheating, but you could be losing compression and or leaking oil or water to places it shouldn't go.  If you ski in places that's weedy (a problem for me) then the intake path can get plugged up with weed chunks. There's a metal strainer in my boat (Indmar mcx) just above the alternator.  Do you have a "fake a lake"? It's like a toilet plunger with a hole in it for a hose.  You can run the boat in the driveway without fear of burning out the water pump.

I thank you for your honesty. It's much appreciated.

Horton - the budget doesn't really allow for a new ski at the moment. Nor am I terribly interested in changing gear this late in the season (got maybe 2 months left here in WI before they lower the lake). They don't let us drop a course in my lake, so we free ski.  with the help of some good instructors, I've made some strides in my skiing the last couple years. This summer, I've made a couple runs at 41 off at 36. I will freely admit I'm sure I don't have the width to make a single bouy. My only point is to suggest that I feel my technique is finally good enough to handle it. My progression I bought the Truth because I liked the CDX. I was told the truth was an updated CDX. It turns out I CAN'T HANDLE THE TRUTH! I demo'd a CR7 while at Swiss Ski School. It immediately felt better. I switched to the Nomad upon Darren Wiley's suggestion - if you like the CR7, you'll love the Nomad. I don't live close to a good pro shop that would let me demo gear. I tried an X5 Pro from SIA and didn't like it. It felt too "loose" - more like a sedan when you're used to more of a sports car feel. I got my RCX after demo'ing one when I skied with Seth early this year. that being said, it doesn't sound like I can go too wrong with any of the major players stuff. what would you recommend/what have you got for sale? thanks JJ

Jagersport.com fin setup says the A1 is not a cold water ski http://www.jagersport.com/support.htm "This ski must ride well in warm water, because it doesn't in cold" I don't have a problem in cold water with my speed slotfin on my d3. so, I don't think it's the fin - it's the ski. You can tweak the settings, but...

Tuney -  I'm in SE Wisconsin, so it's not as cold as Canada, but it's certainly not Florida. We ski from April to October. We have a 100 degree rule - if the combination of the water and air is 100, we will ski. Certainly when the water is in the high 40's and 50's, the ski performs very differently (as do our muscles). The mid 60's is when I start to notice a difference in how the equipment responds. Jagersport.com has an excel sheet on how to setup your ski and fin for differing water temperatures. He's got some notes on there in regards to equipment and it's usage.  new equipment is so much lighter (and therefore faster) and rides higher in the water. But if you still tend to ski in rougher water, you'll want a ski that's a little bit heavier - like an F1. I agree with HO 410 on bindings. I have swapped plates on my Animals so I can use them on my D3's. I got my plate from Wiley's for something like $30 US. The holes in the bottom of the boot match up with the holes in the plate.

If you're sold on the Animals, there's a good deal on them at theliquidedge.com I have a pair and they are the most comfortable rubber boots I own thanks to the superfeet. I still prefer my FM E's by wide margin, however.

Tuney -  my advice would be to go for a ski that is not too stiff - something that you can work, that won't work you. Although it shouldn't be a problem this time of year, make sure to demo the equipment in conditions that you're used to skiing in. IMO a Monza is not a cold water ski, for example. No idea about the system 8 - though it is supposed to be softer.  Thus yes, you can get equipment that is too good for you. If you don't work the ski hard enough to make it bend and respond for you, you're likely to get hurt. At very least, the experience will not be a pleasurable one.  I agree with scotchipman. I too have bought and sold some stuff on sia. I would suggest attempting to do a paypal money transfer as a means of payment. that way you have some means of protection. good luck! JJ

I debated between the Radar bindings and FM. I have never been a fan of the mechanical release due to its inconsistency. I got the FM E's earlier this year at Seth Stisher's recommendation for being safe - as my ankles are also toast. I had an OTF fall yesterday when I put in too much tip in a turn and both released as they should. I'm positive that I would have had a sprained ankle in my D3 Leverage or HO Animal bindings due to the directional torque of the fall. I think the hardshell puts me more in touch with the ski and I feel much more comfortable and confident on the ski as a result.  I'm definitely a fan and would recommend them - and would suggest you reconsider adding them to your list. I also struggled with the cost but figured it was way cheaper than a doctors visit and the opportunity cost of not skiing for a week or three. Summer is too short as it is.

Perhaps I'm guilty of stating the obvious, but the reason that ZO doesn't work in boats older than 06 is that up until that time, the engines were mechanical. MC had the first drive by wire engine in 05. The industry standardized in 06. In other words, the computer controls the engine and ZO/PPSG controls the computer whereas before, all you had was the PP servo controlling the throttle cable. For me, the real question is why did it take indmar and PCM so darn long to make the switch to DBW when automakers had done this years before? Thus, as I understand it, ZO controls the DBW segment going forward while PP controls the mechanical segment going backwards due to some patent issues. Change is hard - but it happens. Those that adapt best to it are most likely to succeed. I'd be interested to see a breakdown of those that don't like the new stuff versus those that do in an age demographic breakdown. I'm betting we'll find that the older guys (of which I'm one) are the ones most resistant to change.

Horton - what is your "old reliable" ski? You seem to be on something new every other day?  Is there such a thing as brand loyalty outside of a sponsorship? I appreciate that you don't want equipment holding you back or limiting your performance, but people seem to have no compunction switching skis at the drop of a hat. If something truly doesn't work for you, and you couldn't determine it in the demo period, I totally understand switching it out. I love my NRCX. It was a natural evolution from my old Nomad. I've been so happy with the NRCX that I have only grudgingly considered dropping the coin for the Z7 (in negotiations with the wife). My ski buddies are pretty similar. We don't switch boat brands, either (not that we're getting new boats every year). We have fun kidding each other about their "poor" choices.  where I'm coming from is that I was dumb enough to buy a HO Truth a number of years ago thinking it was just like a CDX. That ski was like a banana and almost killed me with a few OTF falls. I've been extremely leery of HO and now Radar as a result. Call it a trust issue with Herb.  Denny produces a very well made, reliable, and user friendly ski that I've gotten a lot better on. At some point, the Elite, the A1/S1, Z7, Prophecy, Goode etc are all exceptionally good equipment that is not going to limit anyone if it's setup and used properly. It's just a matter of preference and style. To use a golfing analogy, the new driver or putter only has a few good rounds in it before the old errors rear their ugly head.  I guess philosophically speaking - am I the odd duck?  Are guys switching to get out of a rut? Just to be on the latest and greatest? Just to try something new?  thanks! (sorry perhaps this is a new thread?)

I've had good luck with these products: www.fortinet.com they're the next generation of firewalls out there. they do unified threat management, proxy, load balancing, intruder detection, etc. depending upon the model you get. And they're pretty reasonable all things considered. a 50b is about 799, for example (should be a drop in the bucket with all you spend on skis ;-) Hope that helps! (I should note that I do not sell them and would not profit in any way should you get one)

If you want to block them at your firewall, here's a listing of ALL the IP's in China, Russia, and Nigeria  http://confusedwind.com/?blockÂÂ

I've gone to swiss ski school in Clermont 4 years in a row. I think Patrice is a very good and patient coach.  My son and I skied with Seth Stisher for a day earlier this year and really enjoyed his personality, his facility, and his coaching style.  I would recommend both for slalom. I don't know if Seth does trick. They definitely have it at Swiss.

to be clear, I would define a stripped screw as one that has the threads or screw head ruined. You said it was only loose.  the procedure I listed would not be relevant for a stripped screw.

don't know how the Fisher insert would be different from say a D3, but I've had great luck with the following process:  get a screw long enough to put two nuts around the top and still get all the way down to the bottom of the insert with some room to spare like 1 1/4". Screw the two nuts down so that they're at the top of the insert while the screw tip is touching the end. Coat the insert with some epoxy on the outside of it. Tighten with a screw driver (the two nuts prevent the screw from going deeper into the insert). To get it tighter, you get good leverage if you use the upper most nut with a wrench. When you have it flush with the top of the ski, back the nuts off to the top of the bolt. Clean up any excess epoxy that may have leaked out. Leave it in place like that until the epoxy dries. The screw will keep the inner threads of the insert from getting epoxy on them. Use the bottom nut to take the screw out.ÂÂ

I was concerned about the wear on the heel of the liners by doing as lagdawg first suggests. That's why I went with the shoe horn. The jager site suggests using the silcone as shark suggests. I am not familiar with that, and assumed (incorrectly) it would be little different from lube.  thank you all for the tips! Much appreciated. I'm going to try a few of them out.

I just got a pair of FM E series hard shells. This is my first foray into hardshell bindings. I got them at Seth's reccomendation for being safe as my ankles are toast. I'm struggling with getting them on and off in a timely basis, however. I've tried keeping the liners on my feet. With a shoe horn, that works okay.  But then I have to line up the screw slots and tighten the thumb screws. That's a bit of a pain. My latest attempt is to lube the top of my foot to help it slide in, and still use the shoe horn for my heel while spreading the liner wide. Does anyone have a better suggestion, or are my expectations simply out of line? I'd love to ditch the shoe horn.  I should note that my skiing has improved by being more connected to the ski. I'm not in any way disappointed with the performance. Plus, they seem to release when they should without contorting my foot. No sprains yet this year (knock on wood)!  thanks much!

Anyone also getting bicep tendonitis? I have that and never really considered that the handle shape would have anything to do with that. DOH! The light went on. I'm RFF and get this with my left bicep only. I'd do curls to strengthen it, but they really hurt!  I currently use an elliptical SL handle. I like that it's easier to grip - which takes pressure off my wrist and forearms.