jdarwin

......like we need an excuse!

Yea, we need Scoke up here - we're not nearly anal enough!!http://www.ballofspray.com/vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-cool.gif But, I can do without the renting to Southern Canadians - I would end up in a Betty Ford Clinic hanging out with those guys.

With Andy's numbers, the ski felt much different than when I skied on Ward's last weekend (Ward's numbers are shorter, deeper and forward). The on-side turn is much smoother and doesn't drop in too hard - this was my biggest complaint w/ Ward's ski and the 68" I rode last year. The off-side is nice but a bit "sticky" and doesn't move out off the 2nd wake w/o some effort. I'll probably take out some of the length but the depth and DFT seem to work well. BTW, I put my calipers on the ski last night and came up with 6.855 / 2.500 / .781 DFT - 8 deg wing.

You set up a trick to ride backward comfortably. Anyone can ride it forward - setting it up to ride backward correctly is the key. Horton's "old school rule" is the place to start.

Chef -I typically move the DFT .05 per movement. Some may disagree but the DFT seems to be the least sensitive of the three measurements (and less repeatable unless you have a slot caliper) and the impact can be subtle depending on what your objective is.Â

If the "ideal" is a static pull, then eliminate the boat, install a rail system (hydraulic I would guess) along the bottom of the lake straight down the course with a bar sticking out of the water to attach the rope. Program your speed for 34.2 and away you go. If I understand Bruce's comments, absolutes don't apply here. The driver/speed control is reacting to input - not maintaining a set speed. The speed is an "average" over the length of the course. The boat path is no different.

I'm using a Reflex front and mounted up at 30.125 per Andy's recommendation. He stated either 30 or 30.125. And, Andy's fin setting on my ski is a bit different - 6.855 (tips), 2.500, .777. That is longer, shallower and further back than most. Should be an interesting ride.

Just picked up my new Elite (thanks for bringing back from Nationals Scot). Not sure how it will compare to my current ride but the craftsmanship is amazing! This thing is a work of art. Andy set the fin up so we'll see how it performs when I get back in town tomorrow. P.S. - got Ward's Prodigy's w/ me also - very nice looking set up.

Painting and varnishing buoys? Really? You can replace an entire course for $50. Twice a year - that's $100. Amortized out over several members and its not even beer money. In the environment of $1500 skis and $50,000 boats, I can't see where all the effort is necessary. And the mess caused w/ painting buoys is hardly worth the effort or risk of getting paint on your boat/clothes. I did it once - never again. But, the Polyforms I buy from Ed do last longer than any other. We use two sets per year. As stated, that's $100. With 10 members, it equate to $10 per person.

This is actually algae growth on the surface - dye won't help that very much. Copper sulfate is useful but a good rain followed by cooler temps will break it up and disperse it.

We give t-shirts to skiers at our tournaments. This year's shirt has been very popular and I'm about to re-order some for folks who did not make our tournaments this year and thought I would offer to the BOS community. $20 includes domestic shipping. http://www.lakesatcottonwood.com/Cottonwood%20T-shirts%20004.jpg http://www.lakesatcottonwood.com/Cottonwood%20T-shirts%20002.jpg www.lakesatcottonwood.com/Cottonwood Shop.htm

I have one coming back w/ Jones. After riding Ward's this past weekend, I'm interested in spending some time on it and trying to dial it in for my style. Andy is setting it up for me and Alvin has given me some tips regarding binding setup. Good guys w/ lots of access to support.

Jody - thanks - I read your post above after posting. It looks like the 654 is on the boat at Nationals - I'll check my boat upon receipt and make changes as warranted.

Jody - the boat I'm buying has a 5.7. We don't have a jump at my site so it's not an issue - slalom and trick only. Talking to the guy that owns a 5.7 200 CB he runs a the ACME 654 and is getting nearly the same results as I am with the 422 on my 6 liter. Which is?

Jody - I understand that the early 200's had the "correct" prop for slalom but changes were made in later models to accomodate jump. Maybe you could confirm. Anyway, I would be interested in what prop comes on your 2011 - if different than your 2010. I'll have my 2010 boat sometime next month and will starting the "tuning" process.

You can swap propers and get 3550 at 34.2 - but it won't have the pull that jumpers want. I was hesitant to buy a 2010 promo until talking with a few folks in the know.

I like that G1 slalom and overall photo - lots of familiar faces!!

Scot - it simply takes you to the Kodak gallery site - no photos. Not sure what the issue is.

Jody Seal can probably provide more info but I understand that they are testing several different props to find the right combination for slalom and jump. I can't imagine they will make any significant changes to the design after the first year. I'm buying a 2010 promo and not looking back. Any prop modifications will be an easy fix for me.

How appropriate - Horton is always "milking" us for information!

Scot - good point. OB skied 2 @ 38 (a PB by the way) and finished 26th!! Are you kidding me? That used to be the EP to go to Nationals. But Scot, as hard as it is to believe .5 @ 39 is 14th, it's harder to believe 1 @ 41 gets you second.

Men 3 Tynan 1.5 @ 41 Chad Scott .5 @ 41 Jerry Goodson Milford Jay Leach SCR - 3 out of the top 5 - congrats guys!

Thanimal - I think I made this point in one of my posts - "how ZO affects the skier is dependent upon line length" or something close to that. I've believed this for some time. No one I'm aware of takes advantage of the rule that allows the skier to change the setting before each pass. When working on a shorter line, I drop from B2 to A3 - this allows me to get into position before the boat picks me up. But in tournaments, I've been playing with going to C2 at 35 or 38 - I seem to get better spacing before the buoy. This is really no different than fin set up. If my ski feels great at 28 it will probably suck at 38 and vice versa.

Willy's time was slow - boat didn't engage - sounds like driver error.Â

Dave - if the driver doesn't fully engage the system, it doesn't matter the speed - it will be slow.Â