davemac

if the bottom of the plate is not already covered, go to an art supply store and buy a sheet of black foam. It is about the size of an 8x11 sheet of paper. I prefer to use the stuff that has adhesive on one side. It will cost you no more than $2. Adhere it to the bottom the plate. It should provide enough friction to stop the plate from shifting.

I've been using comp vest (Eagle) for a few years. I wanted the extra float and safety of a USCG for one of the places I ski, and (at the advice of many here) just picked up the Radar X Vest. Used it this morning for first time, and was very impressed. Actually forgot I was wearing something different until I dropped, and my head was notably higher above the water.

I went with the Large (5-10, 185, 42 chest) seemed to fit great. If Large is the size, there is a reputable seller on ebay moving some for $100 w/ free ship.

How far is it traveling...and for how many days? If depends on if it is a "trailerable" cover...and if it will be the owner that is (properly) putting it on.

I'd almost lean towards leaving it off....it would suck if it chafed the gelcoat

curious if anyone has used one of these while not skiing... and if it is functional at speed, or only when boat is at idle?

 

 

More drought photos?

seems fine to me as well?

Yep...had the spring suit and have two hyperfreak shirts. Haven't touched them once since I got the shorty and shirt from Camaro. In fact, I sold the ONeill shorty...and probably will do same with the shirts.

ONeill stuff is very good...but Camaro truly revolutionizes the neoprene game.

 

** I might add, that since also buying the 2.0 Camaro full suit, I also have not touched my Eagle drysuit.

I agree with Shane and brody. My buddy has a 216. It is always awkward turning down his offers to use his boat.

@Horton . Sorry to hear the news. Which arm, and at which end did it rupture?

@Wish I got some more details on my buddy's '97 pylon. He mentioned that he periodically checks and sometimes has to snug the (6) nuts on the (3) U-Bolts. It sounds like this may be all you need (along with that possible shim).

Several years back, he reluctantly pulled a large person tubing...who decided to bury the tube while starting off. The pylon (and the driver) did not tolerate the stress well.

Apparently the bottom of the pylon rests in a "shoe" that is glassed into the hull. The seating of the pylon was disrupted. The repair costs were a few grand, much going towards labor which entailed pulling the engine to gain adequate access to the area needed for the glass repair.

Good Luck.

 

 

My buddy's '97 196 had similar creaking/loose pylon issue a few years back. It turned out to be fairly significant job to fix it (hopefully not the case with you). He suspected damaged happened pulling a "heavy" person on a tube. Off-season fix included fiberglass repair work where the bracket was glassed into stringer (not a very accessible location). I'll get more info from him tomorrow.

 

So the pic above is using the CFR-200 mount. To the left of it, you can see the other mount option...on the "U" shaped bar.

I'm about 5'10" and prefer to drive with flip-up bolster seat up, looking over top of windshield. Thus there can be some visual interference from the mirror depending on where it is positioned.

Using CFR-200 mount.

I'll take some pictures this weekend of the CFR-200 mount on my boat and add them here.

Generally speaking, the closer you can get the PTM mirror to the driver, the better it works. However, given the (low) windshield design of the 03-06 RLXi, it can interfere with viewing what is ahead.

While I can gladly expand on this....the short answer IMO.... is that the CFR-200 mount is the better option if your boat is to spend the majority of its time tugging through a course on private water. The U-shape mount is the better option if your boat is also used for recreation on public waters (where you need to be aware of other boat traffic).

 

@DkLkSkr I've got a PTM on my 03 RLxi. I've used it mounted it to the walk thru windshield section via the U-shaped mount, and also closer to the driver with the $100 carbon/resin PTM (CFR-200) mount. There are pros/cons to either of these mounting options...I'm not sure which I prefer. I presently have my boat here at home and can post photos later or answer any specific questions you might have, either by PM or via this thread.

In the meantime, here is a link you may find helpful (although you may need to be a "member" of the malibu site to view the photos)...

themalibucrew.com/forums/index.php?/topic/37481-ptmedge-mirror-on-03-rlxi/?hl=edge

@DW Not sure...I don't own a CP, but surely one of the CP guys can answer. This photo is from the Centurion website.

I just noticed that vent on the engine box that you mention. Perhaps it is another "refinement"... as it is not present on my buddy's 2011.

Here's a good example of a nice "refinement". The attached current transom picture (above the word "Championship") shows a chrome handle and plate that is nicely covered with Seadek.

I occasionally ski behind one of the very early CPs (great pull and great wake). It does not have this handle (very helpful to pull yourself up onto the platform). Also, the chrome plate is not covered in Seadek. If not careful and you step on it with wet feet, you can easily end up in the water... or the ER.

 

 

try this...

This is the method I used to calibrate in open water. Perfect Pass has a whole series of these videos.

I have a moderate to high arch and wear insoles in almost all my footwear. After transitioning to a hard shell (reflex) last year with RTP, I experimented some with insoles. I am RFF. Absent an insole, clamping down a hardshell forces the bottom of my foot to unnaturally flatten. This, in turn, causes my ankle to compensate by flexing significantly leftward. The result is that the ski is hell-bent on going Left.

Inserting a Radar insole reduced some of the left bias, but the slightly more built up arch of the $30 Powerstep brand insole effectively aligned my lower leg and "neutralized" the ski for me. YMMV, seems like the green Superfeet are a very popular choice. Unfortunately they are not overly compatible with the anatomy of my foot.

 

**I'm on the left hand side of the BOS Ability "bell curve"...so I'm only throwing in my 1cent (someday I may have 2 cents to offer).

I have been happy with, and found the (blue) Powerstep Original holds us pretty well (usually buy them thru Amazon). I have a medium to high arch that needs support. The arch of Superfeet is too far towards heel for me.

 

If you get no answer here, try posting on www.themalibucrew.com

Just go to any Art Supply store. I think they have "Michael's" nationwide. I have bought thin eva sheets there, or at AC Moore. I think it is about $1/ sheet in the "paper" department, and you can usually get it with or without an adhesive backing.

@Moskier3ev I've been keeping a close look at the used Txi market (for when I'm ready), and that is the best deal (and best looking boat) out there.

@Rivvy my 03Rlxi SG ran better after inverting tach last year.

Great looking boat, always in demand, good luck with the sale. I'm curious about that spare tire mount. If not custom, would you mind sharing the details of it (via PM)...