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skiinxs

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Posts posted by skiinxs

  1. Try adding a very small bead of silicone sealer on the port side bottom at the rear edge to simulate some additional hook to level the boat. Believe it or not, the silicone will stay on if allowed to dry and perfectly simulate what the additional hood would do. You can play around with size width and placement until you find the optimal setup. Then duplicate the amount and size by adding some additional fiberglas hook at the exact sized and location. If you have some hook on the starboard size already you could also try removing some of that to balance the boat.
  2. @Jmoski I stand corrected, they apparently do call the throttle box a "throttle base assembly" on the nautiqueparts website. I think you had earlier correctly identified the correct part as THIS part, but it should still be covered under warranty.
  3. @Jmoski It is not a throttle body assembly, that is on the engine. You need a throttle / shift control box, and I think it is a little north of that cost. Sorry, I don't know the part number, but you have a 5 year warranty and a 2018 couldn't have been sold before June 1st of 2017, so it should be less than 5 years old. You should get it replaced under warranty before the boat is 5 years old.
  4. The button that lets you rev up in neutral is a separate switch and not related to the neutral safety switch that is inside the throttle box. Those switches fail frequently too, but I don't believe they are any indication that the box will fail. You can replace the button switch if you want, but do you really have a need to rev up in neutral? The old days of having to rev up while a carb motor warms up and the choke opens are gone. The only time I use is with Diacom hooked up so I can rev up at the dock and watch what is going on.
  5. Not bad on the 200. Not the throttle body, the hand shift/throttle. Much easier than the old ones with a shift and throttle push/pull cable, only two plugs to unplug once you get it out. pop the upholstered arm rest and side panel off, remove the four attachment screws and unplug.

     

  6. You need a new throttle box. While you have it out go ahead and replace the button that lets you rev it up in neutral, but that isn't really needed for anything. There is a diode in that box that causes failures (part of the neutral safety lock out circuit), all the boat companies that use that box experience failures. Should be still under warranty. It is possible to have the diode changed by the manufacturer of the box (Livorsi) if it is out of warranty, but that could take a while.
  7. I have had rotator cuff and Labrum repair surgery twice on each shoulder several years apart. Find the best surgeon you can, make sure they scope. Many times the physical therapists know who the good surgeons are because they see the results of many. Your PT will be at least as important as the surgeon. If you don't work really hard, it will never come back 100%. Each of mine was a great success until I tore them up again years later. Right now both shoulders are 100% from the second surgeries. I was skiing at 6 months on each, really solid at 9 months, and 100% at 12 months. Although I have had over 20 PRP's and am a strong advocate I have never added stem cell, which should be even better. They can add PRP during the surgery directly where needed, but I never had it done due to the surgeries being done at a hospital. PRP at my surgeons office is $600, but with the absurd hospital markup would have been around$10,000. A little out of reason due to being out of pocket.
  8. If they are saying that your boat is only worth $11,000, tell them they are way off and insist that they find you a similar boat that you can purchase for that amount (99 or newer Ski Nautique with 800 hours or less in at least as good of condition as yours was before the incident). If they can't find one (no way they can in today's market), they have to ante up for what the current market value is. Your policy should either be a "stated amount" where the dollar amount covered is listed in your declarations page, or actual cash value. The term "replacement cost" would indicate replacement with a brand new similar item, which usually only applies for the first two or three years of ownership. Do not accept a penny less than the amount for a similar replacement. Also, they should cover repairs up to the amount of a total loss, not three thousand less as you indicated above. What is the insurance company? Sounds like a good one to stay away from.
  9. I believe that in many cases, there is access available, but no good mechanism to help those who would like access to connect with those who would be happy to welcome people to the sport. I for one have never turned anyone down who asked to learn to ski or get started on a slalom course (or jump, which is another level of liability.) I would bet that there are quite a few reasonably close to me that would love to ask, but have no idea there is an option. They also don't know there are people who actually still ski, or even that AWSA exists. A mechanism to connect all of those dots is what is needed.
  10. @BTheis You should listen to @mike_mapple , he certainly knows his stuff. Ideally you should take a trip to FL and demo both skis at one of the many great ski schools. Win/win! You get warm weather, good instruction, and find out for yourself which works better for you!

     

  11. My suggestion would be the C85. I have had several skiers try out the C85 over the last couple months at my lake. Most have bought one. Comments I have heard are: turns better than anything I have been on, faster than anything I have been on, easier to get up on, less effort - 8 passes felt like 4, more forgiving. I am pretty broken but did manage part of a 28 and 32 off pass and agree with the comments I have heard, my current ski is an Ion, which I absolutely love! I am buying one!

    Skiers were coming off of Radar, Goode, and D3.

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