@MDB1056 ya believe it or not, it’s points ignition. Distributor cap, rotor, condenser etc. It’s all there.
I’m going to have another go at it this weekend.
Found this on the web also.
This with your collective advice above Will get me going hopefully.
GENERAL GUIDELINES FOR
ADJUSTING BRASS AND
NITROPHYL FLOATS
Two methods of float adjustment are provided for with Holley
performance carburetors depending on the style of float bowl
and needle and seat assembly employed. They are the inter-
nal (dry) setting and the external (wet) setting. The internal
float adjustment is accomplished with the fuel bowl off the
carburetor. With “internally adjustable” needle and seats, the
fuel bowl is inverted and the float tang, or tab, is adjusted to
the point where the float surface is parallel to the fuel bowl
surface, just underneath. An initial dry setting can also be
accomplished with “externally adjustable” needle and seats.
To achieve this, invert the fuel bowl and turn the adjusting nut
until the float surface lies parallel to the fuel bowl casting
surface underneath.
Another, more accurate adjustment can be made with the
side hung style float if measuring gauges, such as drill bits,
are available. Here, with the fuel bowl inverted, the primary
float can be adjusted to the point where there is a 7/64" gap
between the “toe” of the float and the bottom of the fuel bowl
surface underneath. The float “toe” is the part of the float fur-
thest from where the arm is attached. The secondary float
can be adjusted to the point where there is a 13/64" gap
between the “heel” of the float and the bottom of the fuel
bowl surface underneath. The float “heel” is the part of the
float closest to the point where the arm is attached.
A “wet” level float adjustment can be performed on either the
side or center hung floats, if the fuel bowls have provision for
the externally adjustable needle and seats. This adjustment is
made as follows. Start the vehicle up and move it out of the
garage and into an open area where plenty of fresh ventila-
tion is available. Allow the idle to stabilize. Turn the engine
off and remove the sight plug from the primary fuel bowl to
inspect the fuel level. If it’s been determined that adjustment is
required use a large screw driver to crack loose the lock
screw. With a 5/8" open-end wrench turn the adjusting nut
clockwise to lower the float level.
Conversely, turn the adjusting nut counter-clockwise to raise
the float level. Tighten the lock screw. Restart the vehicle and
let the engine idle stabilize. Shut the engine off. Remove the
sight plug to reinspect the fuel level. The fuel level should sta-
bilize at just below the level of the fuel bowl sight plug hole.
ADJUSTING DURACON (PLASTIC)
FLOATS
The Duracon float rides higher on the fuel than either the
brass or nitrophyl float and, therefore, a higher setting is in
order. A Duracon float, set at the same level as either a brass
or nitrophyl float, would make the carburetor run leaner,
everything else being equal. This is because there would be
less fuel available in the fuel bowl. The Duracon float setting
must be higher to compensate for this condition.
Dry Setting for Duracon Center Hung Float:
The primary side setting is .3125" (5/16"), measured with
the fuel bowl inverted, at the middle of the float. The second-
ary side setting is .3750" (3/8"), measured with the fuel
bowl inverted, at the middle of the float (back side).
Dry Setting for Duracon Side Hung Float:
The primary side setting is .2188" (7/32"), measured with
the fuel bowl inverted, at the toe of the float. The secondary
side setting is .3125" (5/16"), measured with the fuel bowl
inverted, at the toe of the float.
Wet Setting for Duracon Float:
Refer to “Wet Float Setting”, discussed previously.