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gregy

Baller
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Posts posted by gregy

  1. I'm using Reflex with R-style rear. I switched back when I was at 15 off for the same reason as your talking about. If you comfortable with the rtp might as well stick with it. From my personal experience I'd recommend a releasable binding. Reflex, HO, MOB. Your ankles will thank you. MOB you can use any binding. The supershell and HO have more room for big feet. The white cuff reflex to me are closer to a rubber binding because they flex well. I'm using a intuition Aqua liner that is heat moldable.
  2. Search for Seth Stisher or Gordon Rathbun on youtube. There are some drills. But mainly learn proper stack and just imagine skiing in a course. I'd suggest on pull out try to simulate gates by getting a consistent repeatable rhythm, like start at the same place each time out side the wake, Pull out for count of like 3 or 4 (what's comfortable for you). Get a comfortable glide count, then go and start your turn in just like you would for a gate. Then try and do 6 to 8 turns and start over.
  3. I've seen beginners hold on too long. You want to keep the handle in close to your hip. I've seen people keep both hands on the handle to point that it rotates their shoulders toward the boat, you don't want to do this.

     

    At your level I think its a good habit to build on but I'd be willing to bet your problems are with stack and timing issues. If your stack is good at 15off you can create enough space that you could run 15off without releasing the handle at all. If you have any videos post them up, you'll get lots of help here. If you do a search for Handle Control there are a lot of info. Also if you haven't read Bruce's article:

     

    https://www.ballofspray.com/home-page/tech/87-what-the-heck-is-handle-control

     

     

  4. Try moving the boot back and forth some. Its going to react a little differently than softer boots. Not sure if yours has the hill strap. Mine had a hill strap and it was a little on the tight side, it was tightening to soon when flexing my ankles forward causing a torque effect that led to too much tip pressure. Once I let it out a hole my skiing got better right away.
  5. We use a rope (leader) on each end tied to the anchor with a green ball. I put a light anchor that can be adjusted for depth and it make for a rough 55m ball. I really don't worry if it not perfectly straight. If you want to or if you have cross wind you can put a anchor out in the middle to straighten it. Like someone above said. Pull slowly and be patient.
  6. If you read the claim. The kid was on a tube and got knocked unconscious when he was thrown off. He sank and was not found until the next day. Not sure I've every had vest that didn't float me and I'm pretty lean. Last two vest were Stokes and Camaro and they both have good flotation. The worst I've had an old eagle vest. I keep it around because it perfect with a wetsuit.

     

    Says it was a Liquid force. Has anyone had a vest that would allow them to sink to the bottom.

  7. I agree with what Than is saying but I've found that ski setup has something to do with it as well. For me I have problems with a ski takes excessive front foot pressure to get the ski to come around properly or a ski that is too sensitive. With the a ski setup that requires a lot front foot pressure I tend to get a rebound effect where I fall back or the ski doesn't finish and I end up back on the ski and going straight at the next buoy. If the ski is too sensitive then I tend to be cautious by bending my knees too much coming into the turn (mostly offside) and end up with my hips behind coming out of turn.
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