Live2ski

I see someone who’s “relationship with the course” is on point - No “muscling it” and “overpulling” means she’s using the boat so that her speed equalises with the boat at the right time to turn. If you’re at the correct speed and width at the bouy the rest is “style points”.

Looks like your focus is the turn when is should be the alignment and acceleration behind the boat. If this is your opener then it probably felt fairly easy and normal which means making the changes necessary to your alignment is going to take a fair bit of commitment. As everyone always points out here the best investment will be some ski school coaching. For self help as a start point I’d be looking at the youtube videos on ski drills for alignment (lean drill / whips etc) away from the course - video yourself and make the changes until you look the same.....it wont feel as dynamic or as much fun as chasing the orange spheres but will allow you to at least recognise what the change in body position should feel like. Then try and replicate back in the course - long line /slower speed until it’s the same. Humbling but always worthwhile ....

I hope this is OK as a topic: As a small(ish) club with members across a wide spread area and limited social contact due to COVID, we are looking to “add value” to this years membership. One of the ideas that we have come up with is live webinar coaching. The idea being that a coach would come on line with 8-10 members for an hour to give a presentation with Q&A or to review members passes and discuss concepts. (Exact format /number of sessions to be discussed). We will of course pay for the coaches time. Unfortunately I don’t have any direct emails so if there are any coaches out there who would be interested in what should be a fun way to pass an hour or two this season then please do message me. Many thanks , Kevin

A bit like this : Filmed around the Andy Mapple pro at Thorpe by a friend of mine - awesome edit.

If you want to try any of the stuff suggested then a good starting point will be to STOP linking turns. Right now I’d guess you are focusing on the turns and as you come off the wake you are throwing yourself into a turn that “feels good” and getting frustrated that the handle isn’t tight where you want it to be out your offside - its what we all did :) When you ski like this there is no “time” to practice anything. “Exercises” are few in slalom but in your case it would be good to spend some time separating out the cut from the turn: I’d spend some sets practicing cutting (from as wide a point as you can - evenly balanced before you turn in) - trying to implement some of the good “stack” advice and see how far you can glide up on the boat on the other side before you equalize speed with the boat and slide back in for another cut. Essentially practicing gate turn ins from both the sides. This is just as much fun as linking the turns, as you’ve doing, because you develop the skill of accelerating and being safely stacked through the wakes - ultimately seeing how fast you can go and how high you can get on the boat. Take video / photos to review body position and get that dialed in first. Your turns will be an entirely different issue after that ...... Note: you could look at Seth Stisher “whips” video on YouTube, although he isnt gliding out wide before each turn, I’m suggesting a stage before that where you totally disconnect the turns from the cut.

They’re heavy can’t believe it would be worth it....

I have an old pair you are welcome to (right foot forward). UK based.

Ok so I almost missed this on the gate episode, but it came up again on the latest (onside turn episode) and I could do with a little help in understanding it. Specifically in trying to understand what the negatives are? Rossi and Trent (great podcast pairing by the way!) both make the point that on coming up to the apex of the turn (or turn in) we DON’T want the handle in front of us, but in line with our bodies and the pylon - or even behind the centre of our bodies. (Line tight of course) Ive grown up with the advice of when you release “push the handle in the direction the ski is going” (recognise there is a lot to question in that statement, counter rotation etc, but it is the handle in front bit that I’m getting at now.) What they mention is that if you have the handle in front then when you turn in, you are on a different arc from the handle. (Takes some head scratching but makes sense.) Given that we see so many great skiers doing just this, what is the detrimental effect? As a "righty" my onside is actually my worse turn as the line shortens and I’m wondering if this “trying to turn on a different arc from the handle” may be a factor? Reaching the handle in front, there is a regular temptation to pull it in to complete the turn, which (for me) can result in overturning and a swim. I’ll be having a go dropping the speed and seeing if I can feel a difference next time out, but would welcome if anyone has views on it?

Thanks @wish, I actually have the 6s and it’s really not good. Was being hopeful that the situation had improved.

does anyone know if any of the newer iPhones (X onwards) can cope with the vibration when on a pylon mount ? (Need a new phone and would like to do away with the GoPro )

Hmm - my name has changed on resetting password ? Deep11 (kevin)

Somehow missed this thread from earlier in the year. It is interesting but what is also interesting is that the exact opposite (flat ski into the wakes and body away) also achieves a significant reduction in load, and looks a lot like Nate. As a concept though it also calls for a the idea of NOT being wide and early but Accepting the swing of the rope around the pylon and following the path of deceleration to turn on time with the right (down course) speed at the bouy. “Flatting” perhaps ??? (Love this sport!)

Hi @DanEla, I've been working on the same thing for the past 2 seasons. I can't really add much more than what's been said above to what your'e trying to do. I can however tell you how I have approached it to make the change actually happen: 1. Buy Trakker and video camera (playsport by kodac for me) & video every set 2. Find Videos of a pro or Dawg who you think your might aspire to ski like 3. Shadow the bouys or free-ski to allow you to make many more wake crossings and edge changes 4. Edit your vids and compare with those of the pros for body / ski position 5. Send your vids to Seth or another coach who's willing to help you (expect to pay for their advice - its worth it if you're serious) 6. Keeping doing the above and the change WILL happen. It's taken a while for me (slow learner) but at least this way you can see for yourself what is going on rather than relying on various people in the boat who may not know what is going on and offer the incorrect advice. Note: fifteenoff.com have a great free ski video of Seth Showing how to build up the edge change and wake crossing.

its arrived and "jump and go" definitely not going to work on this S2 - unless a reverse fin is part of its magic? anyway in the process of turning the fin block round i can see the core of the ski very clearly through the fin slot. checked the surface and its kind of powdery like a bit of balsa wood, but definitely not sealed - is this right? i thought that it was important to protect the core and bad things would happen if it got wet? slightly nervous about taking this stick to the water!

@ chuck dickey - that great, thanks

Hi, my shiny new S3 arrives tomorrow. its a 67.5 and i would really like to know what the stock settings are so that I at least start in the right place. I usually just jump on and go, but realise recently that fin settings are quite crucial and I don't want to get the wrong impression. ive looked at all the S2 threads and while theres is a lot of mention about stock settings the actual figures dont seem to be there. The link on the HO web site also seems to missing. i would really appreciate your help. (will be mostly skiing at 34 & 28/32 off) as an aside - anyone know why I cant sign in to BOS with my iPad? (had to boot up the PC for this.) .....and yes CAM you can have a go as well - just dont scratch it until I have.

Thanks very much for all the advice. My plan is to try the s3 because I can get hold of one first and if it doesn't light up my life then it's the big orange. (That dayglo reminds me of my ski racing days.) Kevin

@bogboy looks like you are in the ascendency - hope it goes well on the new stick. @chef23 thanks for the "lean" comment. Never really thought I had a weight issue ( other than when trying to get height kiteboarding) but watching all these lighter guys ripping without troubling ZO is what started me thinking. Body fat is a 14-16% so don't really anticipate dropping any weight during the winter, in fact with P90x will probably gain a bit - bring on the bigger ski!

Thanks @Chef23 and @MS as you can probably tell I know the 68 strada should be fine but its that time of year when I have the cash and am itching for a new toy! @BRY very helpful info, I am RFF and in the Uk so your kind offer of the nano twist probably won't work. Great to know that us "heavier than the average bears" can be consistent at shorter lines. I really think that planing surface has to play a part esp. at 55 when gravity is having way more effect on us as we slow than on the average 150guy. this is why i was asking re: the HOS3 - as it has a wider tail taper it should keep us up a bit more, I was interested to know if anyone of the requisite weight had experience of this. As an aside I learn alot from watching the pros on youtube - Are there any 220+ pros to watch? :)

Just finished second season on my 68 radar strada - 28s easy and 32 most sets - all at 55. looking to see what a new ski might offer. Looking at the manufacturers sites it seems that I may be on too small a ski for 55 - I am 6,4 and 220lbs. I really want to get into 35 and reckon that a bigger ski may help out with consistency. Are there any short line heavier guys out there with an opinion on this. I am liking the look of the orange strada although understand i may have to wait a bit for a 69. thinking seriously about an HO S3 as it is a bit wider (and doesnt cost as much as the nano 1). The only "big" pros in the 6'4, 6'5 category are 210 tops (cant believe that CP is only 210!) and ski at 58 so can t really use them as bench marks. really appreciate your thoughts, Kevin

@colo_skier we ski at: Dunfermline (ancient capital of Scotland) at "Water Ski Scotland" always a warm welcome for visitors! (although probably raining)

@gregy and @garywilkinson thanks so much. Totally agree that the gate / glide is where I need to get some continuity (the correct type!) Looked at the other thread Gary and yes this is all soooo familiar. Reassuring we are working on the same stuff - wonder how much of the technical shortline stuff really doesnt apply yet? Reckon I'm going to keep working at the free skiing - allows me to still work on stuff even if I screw up the turn in. Anyway got a break from it all for the next two weeks as summer holidays beckon - 12deg and rain forecast - the uk's endless summer wins again, reckon I'll be in the 5mm wetsuit when I get back :(

Hi Gregy, I hadn't noticed that, thanks for the observation.

Hi - it does seem that we are seeking the same thing! I would highly recommend free skiing for proving to yourself that you can turn without nailing it and generally getting your mojo back. I posted a video, after the requests for one, showing a free ski pass and the overturning bouy pass - if this is what you're doing and you fix it - let me know! I'm going to work on the vision thing but also think a lot of it is what is happening well before the turn and for me it's all about the gate - once you start turning hard and loading early you're stuck that way for the whole pass. Need to learn how to coast round one :)