Joeprunc

Nope, West Coast :(

I was thinking prop wrapped the buoy cable as well. After the dunk, the boat is still in gear forward.

How much do you weigh? I'm 155lbs on a good day skiing @34 -22 and -28. Would you recommend going with a 67"?...I'm on a 66" Vapor now.

Its a good day! Curious to see how you like it, and what ski were you riding?

Wouldn't own about without one. I even run it on early mornings in the summer. I installed this https://www.bakesonline.com/heater-craft-200-pro-series-complete-heater-kit.html The Y return has an orifice that keeps the flow hot once the motor is up to temp, even when at idle speeds. I have a 20 minute idle back to my house and it blows hot air the whole way back. Although I did have an electric blanket which helped and will not eventually leak. I installed ball valves at the inlet and outlet lines. I also installed my heater core so the inlet/outlet hoses were at the bottom, this would allow the core to naturally drain each time pressure is released.

Could probably modify this.

@Jody_Seal Thank you. I realized that when I was replacing the cable, I made sure I kept the nuts in the same location, and measured the lengths of new vs old cable.

Congrats! Sounds like you made a great ski selection. And I applaud you for shopping local. As @Jordan mentioned above, if it is the Omni Carbon with an adjustable fin, validate the fin and boot measurements before skiing. Stock measurements can be found here: https://www.hosports.com/pdf/ho-skis-settings-chart-2020.pdf SKI MODEL FT BOOT LENGTH DEPTH DISTANCE FROM TAIL WING ANGLE 65" CARBON OMNI 29.00" 6.880” 2.475” 0.730” 7 DEGREES To make the measurements you need to remove the wing, here is a link to a pdf that has printable paper wing angles for resetting the wing (if you don't have access to a set of wing angle gauges). A great project for your kiddos :smiley: https://finwhispering.com/product/paper-wing-gauges/

Update. None of the temporary fixes worked. I replaced the cable (solo), took about 2 hours, 3 beers, and two bloody knuckles later. Holy batman the steering is better. Thanks all for the help and additional PMs.

I'm assuming you don't have the second half of the pink slip filled out...usually I have them fill it out and I update the DMV electronically. Is there anyway to trace the VIN or CF # through property taxes or a police station?

Bump. Interested in any D3 updates. I'm just an average Joe looking for the next ski. I've been on Radars for the last three skis. Currently 2018 Vapor Pro. I ski 34.2 -22 and -28 (starting to see -32 this year.) D3 NRG and ION have appealed to me to maybe replace the radar. I like the speed of the Vapor, especially the ability to make a mistake and get back into the pass. But seems to be less predictable on my turns (I'm sure its 99% skier fault). I have a tendency to stand on the tail on my harder passes, or later in my set.

@Hallpass that's Sand Bay, we live further south in Dolphin Cove.

Hi I'm Joe. Dabbled in the boating world with an I/O growing up but never did much skiing. Bought my own boat in 2008 thinking I could wakeboard behind it, but the wake was so flat I started to ski instead. I moved to Discovery Bay, CA in 2010 and several years later joined the Diablo Water Ski Club on the CA delta. I love all water sports, which probably is a hindrance on my skiing progression, but I have a smile every time I'm on the water. My wife and I have a new family member who at 15 months is also enjoying water sports.

First off tell your wife she did a fabulous job driving. To me it looks like the slight curve while you were still ripping was because the shore was rapidly approaching and she gave you a pre-warning. As an open water skier help her out, pay attention to the surroundings and get behind the boat earlier so she isn't rushed into making a needed turn when you are still skiing. A loss of two turns on the river isn't a deal breaker. A lot of great advice above, but I'll recommend focusing on only 2 items at a time. Put some tape on your ski and write the two items down so you can remind yourself. Lastly I'd recommend taking more rests. This will allow you to think about what you did, what you want to do, and act as a reset button. It will also provide you more opportunities to tell your wife how great of a driver she is (thank me later). Also once you get to 30+ cuts your legs will not be as fresh as the first 6 which can lead to bad habits or worse...nasty falls.

I ran into a plateau skiing open water in my past life. My best recommendation to improving is getting on a course more, truly the only way to measure improvement. If that's not possible like others have said, coaching or ski with better skiers. Slack is usually generated from a downcourse ski path.

I regularly ski behind a 206 with a tower, the wake is larger than all the other ski boats I ski behind, until you get to 34 mph @ -28'. I'm assuming if you are just getting into skiing you are probably skiing much slower than 34mph. Try skiing at 28-30 mph with -15 off the rope (if you have a colored ski rope you should have the red loop around the ski pylon). I've seen a lot of people ski behind this boat at many different speeds and rope lengths, it is a great and very well built boat. the 206 may have a larger wake than some ski boats, but leaps and bounds better than any V drive.

Standard

Burn an inch or 10....you don't have to worry about the slop in the tip. Usually the slop in the tip is for measuring (push vs pull)

With COVID I haven't had to pull anyone past -32' through the course this year until just a few weeks ago. I noticed 2 things. (1) I need a new cable the steering wheel is a bit stiffer than last year can turn with ease, but not 1 finger, and (2) there is more "free slack" in steering than last year. 2006 Response LXI. I have a new cable on order and will replace it when my 1 year old lets me (which could be be a while). I've also adjusted the rudder tab to put more load on the rudder, which helped, but It could be better. I plan on greasing the rudder packing box. But my main question like dirt bike clutch cable, mountain bike shifting cables, and other cable actuated assemblies in a boat are there an adjustment nuts to the cable and cable sleeve to minimize slack as the cable starts to wear? I was wondering if the block in the picture below was the adjustment device. So if I move the nuts to make the cable sleeve longer, this should minimize the slack....right? (With the 1 year old, I'd love to do a quick fix to get through the year, and make the cable replacement a winter project.) http://oldjeep.com/images/Malibu/lxisteeringcable/WP_20150626_003.jpg

I can put both my wife's and my skis in the rear trunk of the RLXi (one has a RTP). Other guests have skis behind boat driver, or in walk way to open bow. This works for river skiing. When we go to the course, load up the boat, and offload on the dock.

"Giddy Up"

Thank you everyone. @BraceMaker I'm not sure if the release mech is releasing or there is enough slop to pre-release. @Jmoski I think that is a solution to move to the forward hole, but something right out of the box I would hope for better tolerances. The toe hoop is tight. @Avon Thank you for the personal insight, I will relay this to my buddy, as he is leaning towards going back with double rubber boots. @lovell its a size 12 boot, 12s will not fit on any other plate. Large plate only has one set of hole patterns. All thank you for all this insight and help. I think @BraceMaker hit it on the head, the plate at the toe bar is flexing allowing toe bar movement. It seems like the only way to cure this is to add inserts to the front most slotted hole section, and bolt down the front plate with 8 screws. You can probably get away with moving the release hinge forward, but ultimately you will be putting more stress on the toe bar and plate that I'd be afraid of a fatigue failure. Again I think Reflex is a great system, and personally I'm even looking at upgrading myself (I'd be a size 8 with small plate), but just wanted to learn more as to why my friend was having issues. Hopefully I can talk him into just adding a set of inserts.

@BraceMaker I have a feeling you hit the nail on the head.

@Gloersen thank you for that I was looking for that image yesterday to verify, but didn't have the chance. From what he said is the large carbon plate only had one set of holes for the front hoop, so a little different than the G10. Looking online from what he said it looks like this. I will relay all this info to my friend and see if it can provide some guidance. I think the solution is probably to move to the forward hole. but that's a bummer that any boot wear or deformation he doesn't have any adjustments.

@Horton there is compression on the boot between the hoop and release mech, when first clipped in. However if a force is applied to the toe boot towards the rear of the ski (easiest way to emulate on the dock), the release mechanism moves slightly which then the compression is no longer existent. The movement of the release mechanism is an angular movement. I tried my best to draw it out, and will see if I can get a few picts or a video of it.