paul

Super easy. Go to you local hardware or water store and buy a PVC 1 1/2” tee, 1 1/2 short nipple and whatever fittings you want to connect to the tee with. We just got a plug and then we have a bucket with a hose and a 1 1/2” hose fitting. We use it once a year to winterize.

I drive a carb’d boat and another that is fuel injected. Running a carbed boat for me isn’t a big deal although I still prefer fuel injection. Better fuel economy and less fumes. However with my wife and kids driving, fuel injection is the only way to go. To get them pumping the gas, running the boat at high idle, starting it after it has sat for a couple of hours is a pain in the ass. Fuel injection is turn the key and go...

Hmm good point. I’ll have to search for the temp sensor. The impeller bypass feeds into the manifold that houses the tstat. From there it goes out to the exhaust manifolds I think.

I’m stumped on trying to fix an issue on our 2016 Prostar with the 6.2L engine (freshwater cooled). It gets up to temp very slowly (need to bring it on plane). Once up to temp it will stay there as long as it is kept on plane. Once the boat slows to idle, it drops down to 135F and stays there until speeding up again. So far I have done the following: - replaces the TStat (no change) - Checked the impeller bypass check valve (there was some rubber in it causing it to stay slightly open) got rid of this and it is running even cooler at idle - Took apart the splitter manifold (directly after the raw water (impeller) pump with the restrictor plate on it. I found one piece of rubber in one of the holes but other than that it looked fine to me. The only thing that was concerning was where the spring loaded plate rests against the plate in the engine as it was definitely worn and may have not been seating properly. If this was open somewhat could it cause the engine to run cold at idle? Any other ideas? Pics of what I found in my splitter manifold.

I cut and shove styrofoam inside. Works well and doesn’t absorb water

I would think that bunk locations on a lift are much less important than a trailer given there is no dynamic forces involved with a lift. From a structural aspect, so long as there was no interference with hull features, I would advise the bunks to align with the boat stringers.

We are looking too. No wifi for us and we want to do it on the cheap...

Will the upgrade work on a dual puck unit? (‘16 PS). Last upgrade I got was free. Now they charge $50?

To those who question EV’s - go drive a Tesla Model 3. I was a bit skeptical of EV’s but that thing blows the doors off any regular sedan! Crazy power, sublime handling and an incredible interior with 500km range. Scheduled maintenance is once per year and that is only a battery top up. Obviously the price is still a little high but if they put the same drive train in say a Honda Civic, they could lower the price even more. Once they get the price down a little more, It’s going to be hard not to buy one of these as a daily commuter car...

Didn’t Jennifer Leachman get severely injured when a custom super soft ski snapped and ended up with a spiral leg fracture?

The two main boats I ski behind are a 2002 PS 190 310HP w/ power slot tranny and a 2016 Prostar 6.2L. As far as wakes go the 2002 is slightly harder at 22 and 28 but still very, very good. My daughter (26mph) skis the same behind both boats. The biggest difference I notice is the response on the engine (PP VS ZO) but even that is not overly noticeable. Maybe I just have a boat from a fresh mold or something but from a wake only perspective I would take the 2002 over a SN 200 any day. Every 200 I have skied behind has a pretty big bump at 22 that kicks the ski pretty good. The 2014+ MC has the best longline slow speed wakes by far and that includes the carbonpro (2012 &2014) in my experience (disclaimer - haven’t skied the new Bu or 2019 SN)

Hmmm, interesting to hear others are having battery issues as well. Based on this I would think that two 6V batteries are the way to go - Costco has them for $130 ea Cdn. Need a new box to house them though...

Get the biggest deep cycle you can fit in the box - I run a 27group with 110amphours I believe. Make sure that your motor isn’t heating up. Mine was and it turned out I had a small amount of oil leaking past the pump shaft seal into the motor. Keep the water in your battery topped up (distilled water only). The can go thru a lot of water. Also, I don’t bother lifting my boat up all the way during the day - just enough so the waves don’t hit the hull. This can save a lot of juice.

@aspski dm'd you. For anyone else in Western Canada we are getting ready to put our boat up for sale - 2012 Centurion Carbon Pro - 470hrs. Heater, heated seats, Bimini, ballast tank, 343, galvanized narrow single axle trailer. Service every 50hrs. Located in Kamloops BC

interesting. I haven't seen it but would like to. I've developed my own survey technique using a theodolite and Solidworks to output the offsets

we have 1200lb concrete anchors (4'X4'X1') tied to 3/4" poly rope. The rope is 150ft long and we are in 20' of water. This gives us a very shallow anchor angle. We also have tires between our winch lines and our poly rope for shock absorption. To get the anchors into place all you need to do is pour them on a dock, put some pipes under them once they are dry, float them into place and push them off the dock. Cheap and they are not going anywhere!

Why not sew in some fabric to stop the bleed (like what is used for extra reinforcement at the windshield) where your tarp contacts the upholstery . Do it in a light colorfast material and you should be good to go. Sounds like your relationship with the vendor is done but this is what I would have offered if I was the vendor.

Found it!! The cable got pushed to the front of the boat somehow as it was not tie wrapped to the rest of the cables. I used a light and a mirror to look up the port that is used to access the bilge pump under the front seat. Weirdly, the wires went from yellow w blue stripe and black with green stripe (zero off std) to solid yellow and solid green and then back to the zero off striped colors. No idea why. The molex connector on the end was corroded from sitting in the bilge water and pulled right out. I'll replace that connector with a weather pack and we should be back in business.

thanks gents for the feedback. I tried pulling on the cable to see if I could remove it and it is clamped near where the different wires are crimped on. I am hoping that Fineline is able to point me in the right direction since they obviously ran some wires for a certain distance but failing that I will have to run a new cable thru the bilge - getting the proper connectors will be the hardest part as suggested. And yes the existing female connector in the bilge has seen better days. I am not sure why manufacturers leave the ends of cables unprotected in bilges (have seen this on Nautiques as well) @Jody_Seal - not familiar with the shift cable perfect pass trick - can you elaborate?

@Jody_Seal - yes the second picture is of the ZO side (behind the dash). As mentioned in the first post, these wires go into the duct to go to the bilge and they are connected to different wires in a spot that I can't see (but I can feel). I have looked very hard in the bilge (drain plug area, bilge pump area, etc) and I can't find where these wires come out. @Horton @Sledgehammer - you guys with Carbon Pro experience have any suggestions? Does anyone have a technical contact @ Fineline that I get contact? Thx, Paul

Here's a pic of the connector in the bilge and the connector behind the dash. I tried checking resistivity and each wire was about 1-3 M ohms. So definitely not a direct connection. Thoughts? As far as I can tell this is the only connection in the bilge area...

Anybody here hooked up a jump switch to a Carbon Pro? There is a female connector in the bilge where I am used to seeing them (just ahead of the engine). However, instead of being a two wire connector, this connector (flat packard style) is a 4 wire connector but it only has three wires going to it. Thoughts? I checked at the dash and there definitely are two wires plugged into the jump switch connector near the display (yellow/blue black/green wires). Unfortunately the wires are connected to other wires in spot which I couldn't see as it was buried. Boat is a 2012 Carbon Pro. Thx

@web I'd be interested in pictures... Does anyone have any experience with the wheel kit that can be bought for moving them?

heatercraft uses a standard brass/bronze npt to nipple foe connection to the block

we use endura EX-2C epoxy paint over fiberglass over plywood - bomb proof!