Monkstr6100

No idea how YOUR pylon bracket mounts to the hull itself, but on my Gekko it bolts into the stringers on each side with like 4-6 Lag bolts. I ended up stepping up from 3/8" lags to 1/2" and a little longer. And I even made shims to make the bracket fit tighter, for better clamping force. Also used marine sealant on the bolts and behind the shim plate to seal it up. This completely got rid of my creaking issue. The U bolt and set screws did nothing for the noise/slight movement. Could get a picture if any of this applies to your boat.

2006 Gekko GTR @400Hrs

Fuel pick up issue I would assume as well. Splice in a short section of CLEAR FUEL line on the fuel intake line by the engine. Then with the motor box off have someone SAFELY sit next to the engine and watch that line for air bubbles running through it during your left turn. Just a way to at least rule out an option.

My buddy has a similar year pro comp. skies pretty well, wicked bump at 22 off, not sure if it's a prop issue, his prop is beat up. Cool boat just the same.

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=eBasicPower&Product_Code=UMPOD-155. This is the coil.

The coil is for the pcm555 so it's the coil/ignition module assembly. I checked timing through DIACOM, and at WOT it peaks at 28deg and stays there for full advance. Called merc and they would NOT tell me if that's normal or if it should advance more than 28deg. Was not impressed with them at all.

No fault codes, cause I broke down and got diacom, and did the vacuum test on the fuel line already so it's not the hose collapsing. I will order up a coil then. Found them online for $125, that's not to bad. The manual doesn't lay out at all how to test the primary and secondary of the coil, but I figure it should be same as any other coil. This one does have 3 wires though? And my specs are right from the merc service manual.

I have a 2006 Gekko GTR that I have been chasing a slightly lower RPM, rich running, and a tiny power loss issue with. Have done EVERY test under the sun. Finally ohm tested my coil the other day and secondary resistance was only 5,700ohms, while spec is 9,400-11,700. Would this cause my issues? It does have a slight miss, and by slight I mean it sounds perfect to the average person, just someone like me notices. Don't wanna spend the money if it is not likely that bad. Also, I will lose more WOT RPM as the engine warms up, leading me to believe the coil is loosing even more resistance when hot and causing an even weaker spark. Thanks in advance guys.

So I was chasing a unreal fuel pressure. Turns out this engine is supposed to be 30 PSI, and 26 at idle. So my new fuel pump changed nothing. BUT, when I remove the vac line from FPR it jumps to 35 or so, but when I accelerate to 1800 RPM the pressure actually drops a little and this is where it should be at 30PSI? This thing is driving me nuts. Going to drag it to the lake today and see if there is any difference. Will ever do a test run with vac line disconnected from FPR.

The fuel issue is the only thing I am going after right now. This morning with the high pressure pump removed I Jimmy rigged my fuel pressure gauge to it on the bench with a small fuel container to supply fuel. When I would jog the pump I could reach pressures plenty high, easily 100PSI, but when I would run the pump with the drain/bypass open on my gauge it would only run a constant 26PSI, same as when on the engine and running. The pump can not pump the volume any longer at 43PSI, so I just ordered a new pump from Amazon and will keep you all updated when I install it. Wish me luck and thanks everyone.

So, had it hooked up to merc mechanics computer, no codes and 100% power available. The timing kind of wondered around a lot with a light hooked up to it? I since have installed new Wires, Cap, and Rotor, and that seemed to improve performance a bit, but not perfect. I can now get about 4800rpm but as the day goes on it will go down to closer to 4600 WOT? Ran a bunch of tests today. Fuel pressure at 1800 RPM is 26psi, and supposed to be 43PSI. When I would pull the vacuum hose off of the regulator on the fuel cooler it will increase the fuel pressure by only 5PSI? I could totally unplug the boost pump by the fuel filter/separator and it would not change a thing. Is this pump mainly to prime the system? It for sure runs and you can hear it labor down when key is turned on and then fuel pressure peaks at 33-35, and then drops to 26 when started. If I unplug high pressure fuel pump while running it drops fuel pressure and noticeable difference in the running of the engine. Checked anti siphon valve, tank breather, screen under the fuel pressure regulator, and all clear. Then ran the engine with a short line (10") ran directly into a fuel container from the boost pump, to make sure it was no blockage in the fuel supply, and it ran EXACTLY the same with the same 26PSI! So now is it my fuel pump, regulator, or something else? Sorry for the crazy long post!

I have a partial open bow (no walk through, just walk through windshield) and don't use it a TON, but as my Daughter gets older I know I will be using it more.

@GregHind I have not gotten on the water yet since doing any work to it. I am waiting on the inline fuel filter, cap, and rotor, to show up from amazon. Figured I would just replace all for the low cost of parts anyways. And I do not think it is the Gaurdian system at all, cause the warning horn does come on when I turn the key on, so if it were limiting anything the horn would sound. Will keep you posted.

Also, when i opened up the floor panel I could visually see the trans to shaft alighnment was off. And when in neutral it was pretty darn hard to turn the prop. I know it's crude but I used a straight edges and feeler gauges when coupling bolts were backed off to get it way "closer" than what it was. Now the prop shaft spins much easier. Once I replace the inline filter I will head back out to the lake and test my boat again. Thanks again guys. Will be awesome to get the full potential out of my boat finally.

Well I did some driveway work to my boat yesterday. Traced down all the spark plug wires and they were all right, then pulled the cap and all the terminals had the green gunk growing on them. I for the time being just cleaned them up with fine sand paper and wetted with WD40. Will be replacing cap and wires. Already did replace plugs late last season. Then opened up floor panel and removed inline fuel filter. Looks to be original mercury 35-864572 filter. Why does it even need the inline AND the spin on? Either way seemed like some gunk came out of it, but no real resistance when blowing through it.

So this spring I installed the 515 new prop. NO difference at all in RPM at WOT? Now I am thinking that it may be something with Mercurys Gaurdian system? That's about exactly 90%, and from reading I see that if some sensors are bad it may put it into %90 power? Going to get it scanned this weekend. Any thoughts, and sorry for digging up my old thread here.

I feel ya. Here is SE Wisconsin is NO better. I turn 30 on april 30th and insisted to good friends that I will ski that day. Not looking good for me.

Nobody?.... I have a similar issue were my PP temp readout is NOT right.

I pull my 2006 Gekko GTR with a $800 1987 Bronco II! I get some looks for sure, not usually a good thing. Ha. My Wife even makes fun of me. So def not spending 60K on either anytime soon, but if I did, it would be the boat.

@ed obermeier, I know, that was meant to be a cheap and easy promote for your system. I hope to be calling you in the next few months to make an order.

Why I want this sport to grow is open public water is my only option. I am sick of hearing from people about public courses that USED to be on this lake and that lake all around me, but no longer exist. I think if more people were passionate about skiing, more public courses would show up with more people pushing for them. AND less of these massive WAVE makers with huge speakers and punk spoiled kids driving them!

What we need to get more people out on a course is for some one to come up with and sell a portable course that's accurate, easy to set up, compact, and can be turn key ready to roll for under $1300. Then we will have more average joes hooked.

I agree that the prices and "class" level is getting pretty high in the ski community. I got my first new (2011 demo) ski this year. Last ski I had was 10+ years old. Got my first DD this year (a 2006) for $17k after selling my truck, speed boat, pontoon boat, and saving for three years, paid cash! The only reason I could afford a 2006 was cause I purposely went with Gekko, considered by many to not be the best, but I LOVE all the value packed into it for the price, and don't care that it's not a MC, CC, or a MALIBU. I have been to a few events with my wife and daughter just as spectators and can tell we do not "fit in". Please do not get me wrong at all here! There are and have been tons of awesome people I have met and know through this sport, but I think it will continue to be "small" until it is made more available to your average JOE. Just the two cents of the average joe welder at a power plant that is proud as hell to make ends meet with my wife raising our daughter at home. Very blessed.

Yes, that's ice on my face and hands. And my hair froze like a rock!

@fu_man no I don't think there is a course ever set up out there. Really there are NO public courses in this area. It was a water sports based charity event. www.freeze4life.com. Very cool.