Fischer Info

[JerryS]

That particular fish is in my ski bag now...... just waiting for the rain to stop to go try it.

 Jerry

[marco99]

Guys, try the following settings for a 66" yellow or organe and they will blow you away.

binding 29 1/4

tail 0.704

lenght 6.777 (using inside of caliper e.g. Schnitz)

depth 2.5365

angle 9 degree

[Roger]

Marco,

If you're in the trial mood, try the settings Chet Raley gave me (he's had a lot of Fischer's come through his school and says these numbers work the best to make the ski come alive):

Tail: .800 (stem)

Length: 6.898 (tips)

Depth: 2.454

Wing: Upside down, 8 degrees

The settings you describe are heading towards these (more DFT and less Length) anyway...

I changed to these settings and I can tell you it turned into a sports car! Mine is a 68, but the 66 and 68 fin settings are the same for stock.

I would also recommend sanding the slot out to accept a standard Goode fin (the Goode fin block will work if previous to the 9800 or you can have the Fischer fin block milled .012" to handle the thicker fin. I have a Carbon 106 in mine and it seems to be much better than the stock fin was.

 

 

[icewebdan]

Finnaly got that fisher i was looking for...great ski....you have to let the ski finish the turn....

 

I have a question about binding position and mesurement....they said 29 3/4 inch from back of front booth....I use Animal booths....Should I mesure from the back outside of the boot  even out of the plastic part (with the screws) to the back of the ski?

 I also find on the fisher Web site that they mesure from the top of the ski the distance from tail of the fin....

 Icewebdan

[Than_Bogan]

So what's the deal on availability this season?  I have to replace my Goode 9600 (structural problems) and I'm seriously considering a Fisher.  Can I actually get one for this season?

Anyone tried to figure out how Goode's AMP setting map to Fisher models?  I run the 160 AMP [65.5" Medium] even though the chart says I should be 175 AMP (weight = 175 lbs / height = 6'2").  That maps to a stiffer and shorter ski than recommended, so I was considering a 66" Orange as opposed to what the website puts me in (68" Yellow).  But this thread is kinda giving me the impression that the Orange is VERY stiff - more like the "hard" flex that Goode doesn't even make any more I don't think.  That makes me consider the 66" Yellow, which seems most directly comparable to what I have in term of length and flex, but I have no clue if Fisher and Goode skis can be compared in that way.  It may be that Fisher skis are supposed to be longer for similar performance.

Anyone want to make a recommendation for me?  More info: I run 34/-35 a lot of the time, but not all the time.  I've run 34/-38 twice in my life, both times in practice.  I have kind of a "light on the ski" style, which is a nice way of saying I'm not very strong.  This is one reason I haven't tended to use longer skis.

And one more piece of data:  I have to change my input values a LOT to get the website to recommend anything BUT the 68" Yellow.  This seems to suggest I'm right in the center of that range, so maybe I shouldn't overthink and just go with it!?

(Ha, me not overthink.  I'm funny.)

[icewebdan]

If it can help I use to have a 66.25 Goode 6700 (185 amp) an now fisher 68 Yellow...I would say they are about same stiff.

 Here one question for the guys you use Fisher?  The distance of the  fin from the end of the ski..Do you mesure from top or bottum of the ski? I try from top of ski like it is in the Web site but that put my fin almost compeletly back as

possible....http://www.fisherwaterskis.com/us/acatalog/Support.html

[icewebdan]

Thanks.

That change the mesure a lot compare of the fisher method...

.800 with this technique make it about 1.2 with the fisher method.....

[Than_Bogan]

Thanks, ice.  Every little bit of experience helps.  Did anybody else have a clue about availability?  I can't even get a response sending to the orders email on the Fisher web site.

Unfortunately, if the 68" Yellow feels similar to a 185 amp [66.25"/Medium], that leaves me even more confused!  That sure seems like the Yellow ski I'd need [165 amp equivalent] would be right between the two Fisher sizes!  That suggests considering the 66" Orange, but quite a few comments are scaring me off the Orange, including Fisher's own claim that Orange is meant for extreme short line at 36 mph.  Although I still hold out hope for challenging -39 someday, that will be at 34 mph even if it does happen.

Anybody in the ballpark of 6'2"/175lbs found a Fisher they like??

[Roger]

Where do you ski at? Is there not a Yellow or Orange around you could take a ride on?

I wouldn't be afraid of the Orange flex, I see a number of mid 35 skiers riding it; doesn't seem to hurt their earlier passes.

I'm 5'10" / 180lbs riding a 68" Yellow (Men 5). I'm running 35 every set in practice. I've already set a new practice PB of 4@38 on it. Those were all behind my 2002 Natuique with PP Classic and actual times. With ZO, I've been mid 35 except the last tournament before Regionals where I ran 1.5@38. Just can't make any mistakes...

Anyway, at 175lbs, I would think a Yellow 68 would be fine for you. One of my ski buddies rides a 68" Yellow into 41 off and he is about 175lbs.

 

[Marco]

Shnitz is advertising a slightly used 68 Yellow on his site.  I can't believe it is still available, but it was there this morning.

 

I am on a 68 Yellow.  5-10, 180lbs.  55K mid 38's on a good day.   Love the ski. 

My settings right now are 6.982 tips

.702 stem

2.538.

Wing 9 deg

[Than_Bogan]

Alright!  THANKS guys.  I've actually seen a couple of used 68" yellows floating around on the internet, so hopefully I can get my hands on one.

I ski in Massachusetts.  I believe I've seen two actual Fishers in my life -- the second one being Sam Ingram's 66" Orange at Eastern Regionals last weekend.  I have to say seeing that ski probably convinced me to [try to] get one.  It's not that it's beautiful (even though it is), it's that after most of 2 seasons on it, it looks like it just arrived from the factory!  He said he doesn't do anything special and he's never had it refinished.  Wow.  That is the kind of engineering quality I've been lacking on my various Goodes (even though they've skied great).  It also alleviates my worries of getting a lightly used ski.

About Schnitz's ski:  What the heck is Dual-Lock?  Is that that velcro-like stuff?  I thought with a Fisher I could just mount my D3 boots directly?

[Roger]

Yes, dual lock is the velcro like stuff. You would just need to peel it off and probably use goo gone to remove the remaining residue. If you go the Schnitz route, make sure you find out if the inserts are intact first if you just want to mount your D3 bindings. Maybe the dual lock was for hard shells, maybe the inserts are stripped...

 

[Roger]

I don't know how to answer some of that. I think the ski performs very similar to the Goode 9200 or Goode 9500. I hope they stay in business as I would not want to break my ski and then not have the ability to get one.

I'm on Radar RS-1 bindings.

I never think twice about recommending Chet to anyone. He seems to be able to get the most out of just about any skier that shows up...

 

[Than_Bogan]

Just bought that ski Schnitz had.  Looking forward to trying it out.

Normally I start with factory settings before I adjust anything, except I've always been a 7 degree wing guy on every ski I've owned.  Do you guys think the factory fin settings are so far off of ideal that I shouldn't do that in this case?  Start from Chet's settings, maybe?

[Roger]

Well, I'm probaby biased since I moved to Chet's settings and am skiing way better. So.. yes start with Chet's settings. I also was using the factory 9 degree wing setting and changed to 8 and like it much better. I've not tried 7. The original specs called for 9, the current Fisher (as opposed to Fischer) settings call for 8.

On the stock settings, I was running 35 about 30 percent of the time. After a couple of weeks getting used to the new settings, of the last 9 sets, I ran 35, 8 times. For me, Chet's findings proved out...  Now if I could just get that percentage behind ZO /vanillaforum/js/tinymce/jscripts/tiny_mce/plugins/emotions/images/smiley-frown.gif

 

[Than_Bogan]

ok folks, I've got my 68" Yellow!

I did one set on it last night, and saw some positives - notably speed and stability -- but I don't think I have it set up quite right.  Here are my questions:

1) Boot position.  fisherwaterskis.com seems to suggest I should mount rubber boots (mine are D3s) one hole back from center.  You guys agree?  What is the performance difference vs. center position?  I saw this note after I set mine up, so I was on the center hole for that first set.

2) Fin length.  The "Raley settings" seem to me to be quite a lot shorter fin than fisherwaterskis.com.  About 1/10", which corresponds to taking out a lot of tip.  I often take out tip to match my skiing style -- I feel it enables me to turn a lot sharper and I don't mind giving up a touch of tracking.  But 1/10" seems like a lot.  Am I misunderstanding, or does this ski just need a shorter fin in the water to perform its best?

As far as the wing, I think I'll be fine with my usual 7.  I started at 8 because this ski is so much longer than my 9600, but I think I'm just a 7 kinda guy.  The ski felt like it was stalling just a little, especially into off-side turn.  I prefer to carry the speed (and I stand too far forward much of the time...)

If anybody's going to be at Nationals on Saturday, I'll be the guy in Men III with the Yellow Fisher with black D3 boots and a dark brown beard.  For some reason I decided to grow one in August...  I'd love to discuss this ski with you!  (I'm going to go ahead and ski on it because my season has been so messed up that I really have no expectations with any ski; might as well start getting this one figured out right away.)

[Roger]

1) Boot position.  fisherwaterskis.com seems to suggest I should mount rubber boots (mine are D3s) one hole back from center.  You guys agree?  What is the performance difference vs. center position?  I saw this note after I set mine up, so I was on the center hole for that first set.

Forget which hole and measure to the back of the front boot inside the horseshoe (if it has one), just like you would measure any other ski. The 68" ski should be about 29.25 to 29.5" 

 

2) Fin length.  The "Raley settings" seem to me to be quite a lot shorter fin than fisherwaterskis.com.  About 1/10", which corresponds to taking out a lot of tip.  I often take out tip to match my skiing style -- I feel it enables me to turn a lot sharper and I don't mind giving up a touch of tracking.  But 1/10" seems like a lot.  Am I misunderstanding, or does this ski just need a shorter fin in the water to perform its best?

Yes, it's shorter. One full turn of the caliper shorter (is that 1/10th?). I thought I'd not be able to turn my offside with taking out that much tip, but I think the combination of that and moving the fin forward from .645 to .800 just makes the ski feel like a shorter ski in the turn. The nice thing is you still have the 68" of ski for the acceleration!

 

As far as the wing, I think I'll be fine with my usual 7.  I started at 8 because this ski is so much longer than my 9600, but I think I'm just a 7 kinda guy.  The ski felt like it was stalling just a little, especially into off-side turn.  I prefer to carry the speed (and I stand too far forward much of the time...)

Personal choice there. I find 8 to be fine for me, 9 was just a bit too much.

 

If anybody's going to be at Nationals on Saturday, I'll be the guy in Men III with the Yellow Fisher with black D3 boots and a dark brown beard.  For some reason I decided to grow one in August...  I'd love to discuss this ski with you!  (I'm going to go ahead and ski on it because my season has been so messed up that I really have no expectations with any ski; might as well start getting this one figured out right away.)

I'm there every day. I'll see if I can find you. Might be nice to know your real name though...

 

[Than_Bogan]

Great info!  Thanks again.  I just sent whisper with real name.

For tomorrow's practice I'm going to go a little less radical than that, taking out about 0.07" tip and not (yet!) pushing the fin forward.  I'm also moving the boots relative to my first set on it (it does work out that it's one hole back), so I don't want to make large changes to everything all at once.  If this feels good I may try taking it further.

Uh, for my Nationals run, I guess that would be...

 Anyhow, the ski was half-decent with the setup far from optimal.  I'm really looking forward to getting it tuned up and seeing what it can do!

[Than_Bogan]

Ugh.  Change of plan.  I finished off my back this AM and my chiropractor diagnoses an "acutely" bulging disc.  NO SKIING FOR ME!  :(  Ultimately decided I can't even sit on a plane for 3 hours, so I won't make it.  Good luck to all!

Ironically, I think I got my ski pretty darn close to tuned up.  -28 and -32 felt great and I was right on -35 when I felt something important give way.  Man am I bummed that it'll be at least a few weeks before I get to try -38 on it!  Could be next season actually.