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How a ski reacts with different bindings


ForrestGump
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WOW, what a difference bindings can make.  I recently picked up John's 67.5 Sixam SS to replace my Goode 9700.  I went ahead and mounted my old D3 bindings(old style, not Drivers) to it, and 3 sets later had equaled my old tournament PB.  I was hooked. Now, when I got it from John, the fin was WAY different than what Obrien calls stock. The DFT was about .100 shorter compared to their numbers. I reset it to Obrien's stock numbers before skiing with it for the first time.

So last week I bolted on a set of Obrien Bio's and couldn't ski 15 off, let alone ski into 32off which I'd been doing recently.  So I moved the bindings forward. Felt like I was dragging a dump truck.  Moved the bindings back and felt like I was crashing into a wall at the wake.  Moved the front binding forward and left rear binding stock and it started to feel better. But it would try to edge change straight off the top of the wake going towards my on side.  I just thought letting go just prior to the first wake produced some kneck snapping crashes.  The first time it snapped into an edge change at the top of the wake and sent me completely layed out all the way out to the buoy line I swear my head rotated 3 times on my neck. lol. So I finally got out the tools and put the fin completely back to how it was when I got it from John, which was shorter, not as much tip, and a LOT shorter DFT and the ski came alive again. I still feel like it needs more tip, but at least I'm back close to where I'd been skiing. I'm just curious what other peoples results have been when going from the old style bindings to the newer, stiffer bindings such as the Drivers, Bios, Drafts, etc. I like the fact that you can run them looser and still not move around. But damnit, I feel like an unguided cruise missile at times!

 Shane H

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