Can I buy a ski too good for me?

[Tuney]

I am looking to buy a new ski and I was hoping that some of you may be willing to lend me your advice.

I have been skiing for about 10 years so I consider myself a competant skier but I have no course experience so I cannot accurately guage my skill level for you. Also my only formal training is from my dad when I was starting out so my technique will be less than perfect. Nonetheless, I ski at 34-36MPH and I like to think I can rip it in open water on the hand-me-down ski I'm riding haha.

 I have been reading up on two ski's, the Radar RS-1 and the Connolly Prophecy but I am open to other suggestions. I want to buy a high end ski that I can hold onto for awhile and I have read a lot of good about the RS-1 but I have also read that your technique has to be spot on to ride it. Whereas I have read that the prophecy is quite forgiving, should this be a selling point for a person like myself? 

 Unfortuantely I don't know how forgiving of a ski I need as I don't have the means to demo a ski. Are the elite ski's only made for the elite riders or do people like myself have success with a ski like an RS-1?

[HO 410]

What country do you live in?

It's a hard question to answer. Some people go from one side of a set of combos directly onto a Monza and get destroyed. They need something more like a Triumph. Others, get and stay on a triumph for a long time and don't know/realize they are ready for a higher performing ski. Yet others ski well on an MPD (for example), but don't know (until they try for some fluke reason) that they actually ski even better on a Senate.

I tend to think that if you are pretty stable and don't rock around much, you can get onto a pretty high end ski and be okay. But you never know until you try. However, if you have to guess and get it right on the first shot, a Senate C would be a safer bet from Radar.

[Tuney]

I am from Saskatchewan, Canada. Currently skiing on a Jobe Honeycomb... I believe this was the high end ski of the mid-late 70's.

[HO 410]

If the import duty is not too high for your taste, you should be able to demo through H2osmosis. The cost to try a second ski will be less than 10% of the total purchase. At the very least it's more convenient than trying to resell. If you are ready to pony up $1200 on a ski, you need to make sure you have bought something you'll be happy with.

 Oh and to the original question, yes.

 

[Tuney]

I'll look into the costs of bringing in a ski from H2osmosis I imagine there wont be any duty as most of the ski's are made in the US so I'd only pay for shipping/10% tax and the demo cost assuming I didn't like the ski. So it may cost me a hundred or so more but if I don't like the ski that would definitely be worth it. I was actually thinking about buying a used ski. There are lots for sale here and at ski it again, I am a little concerned about being screwed over buying from someone I don't know though. It'd suck to send $600 to someone and not get a ski in return.

 I looked into the Senate C. It is said to be more of a 34MPH ski, how does it handle 36MPH? I've never skied on a wider ski before, how does that effect the turns? I assume it is the width that makes it easier to ride.

 I have a problem with buying stuff that is too good for me... earlier this year I picked up some golf clubs that definitely aren't forgiving enough :).

[aguylikeshark]

No course skiing there is no reason to get a razor blade with a 9Deg wing. Go shaped and enjoy the butter out there and work on countering keeping a tight line. If you are in Canada we have here in our pro shop a 67" Senate C, 67 Sixam 2.0, 67/69" Triumphs.

For used course skis a 66" Sixam 1.0, or 9800 67.25, or a budget friendly 67" System 8.

[Tuney]

Scott, it is good to hear solid feedback on buying online, I'd imagine most people are honest.

Brent, I'm 155-165lbs and 5'6" seems like a 66" would be the proper size but I'd be inbetween sizes for the intermediate level skis, probably better to go shorter with a 65" than longer with a 67" though right? I've been looking into boots but it seems like you almost need to know your ski first as they have different hole patterns. I'm liking the looks of the Radar Rail boots though. Just deciding between a RTP and rear binding now.

 aguylikeshark, keep in mind that even though I don't ski a course I still want to ski fast and hard. Where abouts is your shop? Do you have a website?  

[Tuney]

Cheers Brent. I've emailed the seller so we'll see how that one turns out. I've also come across a couple Radar MPD's at sweet deals so I've read reviews on them and apparently they are forgiving, reviews saying they don't accelerate very fast seem a little off but it looks like people say good things otherwise.

 Thanks for the heads up on shipping with USP, I'll be sure to inform potential sellers that I'd prefer other companies.

[waterskicorey]

Hey Tuney

  I have a 06 66in HO System 8 for sale that is like brand new, it was my son's who used it for a 1/2 season and then quit skiing. I will give you a great deal on it. If you are interested send me an e-mail at waterskicorey at hotmail dot com. Also I live in B.C. if that makes it easier for you not bring it across the border. Thanks and good luck finding a ski.

Corey

[Tuney]

Hi Corey,

I'm in the process of sending you an email. I am actually dealing with someone right now in regards to a Radar MPD but I'll keep an open mind, maybe pick up both and see which fits me better. The system 8 probably fits my skill level a little better than the MPD but I have heard good reviews on the MPD from intermediate skiers so who knows.

 Thanks.  

[Gern Blanston]

Tuney -

 my advice would be to go for a ski that is not too stiff - something that you can work, that won't work you.  Although it shouldn't be a problem this time of year, make sure to demo the equipment in conditions that you're used to skiing in.  IMO a Monza is not a cold water ski, for example.  No idea about the system 8 - though it is supposed to be softer.

 Thus yes, you can get equipment that is too good for you.  If you don't work the ski hard enough to make it bend and respond for you, you're likely to get hurt.  At very least, the experience will not be a pleasurable one.

 I agree with scotchipman.  I too have bought and sold some stuff on sia.  I would suggest attempting to do a paypal money transfer as a means of payment.  that way you have some means of protection.

good luck!

JJ

[Tuney]

JJ, I appreciate your advice. I am not at all familiar with modern equipment, I have basically skied in a bubble :). What sort of temperatures would be considered for the water to be "cold water"... although I live in Canada and not Florida so I imagine I ski in colder water haha.

Is the MPD also a really stiff ski? I've read reviews saying the ski fits well with skiiers of many skill levels but I think it was made to be an elite ski. 

[HO 410]

No, you get the boots that are right for you.

 

All major manufacturers have transitioned into a universal insert pattern for the front boot.

Since you are planning on a toe plate, you can buy on brand or you can get one at a place like

wileyski.com. If you choose radar boots, their mono plate has holes to fit any current ski that has

inserts. Even if you chose a rear boot that did not fit the brand you choose, plates can be swapped,

modified, or fairly easily fabricated. You don't have to buy D3 boots because you bought a D3 ski, and

you certainly should not drill the ski because the plates on the binding to not fit on the ski.

[Gern Blanston]

Tuney -

 I'm in SE Wisconsin, so it's not as cold as Canada, but it's certainly not Florida.  We ski from April to October.  We have a 100 degree rule - if the combination of the water and air is 100, we will ski.  Certainly when the water is in the high 40's and 50's, the ski performs very differently (as do our muscles).  The mid 60's is when I start to notice a difference in how the equipment responds.  Jagersport.com has an excel sheet on how to setup your ski and fin for differing water temperatures.  He's got some notes on there in regards to equipment and it's usage.

 new equipment is so much lighter (and therefore faster) and rides higher in the water.  But if you still tend to ski in rougher water, you'll want a ski that's a little bit heavier - like an F1.

I agree with HO 410 on bindings.  I have swapped plates on my Animals so I can use them on my D3's.  I got my plate from Wiley's for something like $30 US.  The holes in the bottom of the boot match up with the holes in the plate.

[Tuney]

Hey guys,

I pulled the trigger on an radar MPD with the gold fin. I realize it is an elite ski but I am hoping I can work it. No bindings yet but I have decided I am going with double boots. 

[Horton]

You will be fine. I have put skiers at all levels ion the MPD.

[east tx skier]

I think you'll be fine as well.  I've been on an MPD bought from Horton all summer.  Love it.  I've also got an original Sixam that I love.  Spent the last three years on an 05 Prototype monza.  Loved that one, too.

 I ski slow at 15 off.  I'm clearly no pro.  But I like having skis that make it so I don't have to work quite so hard.

[Horton]

Hey East Tx,

I have more skis if you are building a collection . . . .

[east tx skier]

I think the two I picked up this summer will hold me.  Thanks though.  I was a day late and a dollar short on one of those 66" MPD's you had back in June or so.  There's always next year.  For now, I need to ride what I've got.