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I have always left my gear at manufacturers settings except bindings in which I have set them so the water breaks center of the front foot while riding flat... I keep seeing tons of reference to fin adjustments so I will ask what may be a silly question but is there a breakdown on the effects of fin adjustments in simple terms? Like fore/aft makes ski feel longer or shorter, up/down front of fin, back of fin, entire fin etc.? I was able to run 32' in practice a few times last year but cant help but wonder if some tweaks here and there might aid a little.
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There used to be a really good page on the www.schnitzskis.com website which covered how each fin change you make will effect the ski through the course. But unfortunately it looks like that page has been removed and he now charges for that information. It's a shame.
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I think most skiers start at or close to stock binding and fin settings. In many cases a new ski does not come with the right fin settings.


I am personally not a fan moving your bindings by where the water brakes I do not think it is meaningful.


In short. If you really do not know your way around settings - get everything exactly to stock and leave it alone. Sadly you can your trust that a new ski comes as stock.

 Goode  KD Skis ★ MasterCraft ★ PerfSki ★ Radar ★ Reflex ★ S Lines ★ Stokes

Drop a dime in the can


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  • Baller

If you’re serious about ski tuning; let a qualified coach do it. Many on this forum will provide who are proficient.


That said; it’s helpful to acquire the skill.


Horton’s article is succinct & to the point.


Schnitzer of course among the original innovators on the technique.


Ski Tuning


Get some good calipers, reproducible results specific to your equipment is more essential than comparing your #’s with those of others, although length using tips & depth should be comparable amongst measurements with good technique.


The DFT is the least reproducible; investing in a Slot Caliper is prudent.


Once the technique is mastered, tune the bindings/fin close to stock recommendations, depending on manufacturer/vendor (ime), shipped from the vendor doesn’t always mean the fin is even close to “stock” settings. After tuning; just “ski to the ski”. Video your sets; post here for critique (if you can take the flak hits).


If you start ripping some good 32’s and then subsequently digress; check your setup (fin) & be certain no movement has occurred, unlikely but hitting a boat guide, a poorly machined fin block, etc. can result in changes.


Recommend against the OCD of tuning the fin after every horrible set or less than expected results; heard there are some skiers out here that do that.


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Some great info... @Horton that article is what I needed, I also received a chart from another Baller that is really good also especially to throw in the tool kit... I hadnt planned on making adjustments unless I sense a consitant problem. I have a hard enough time as it is so I really dont want to complicate things by creating an out of whack scenario with the fin/wing.

So at this point I will measure everything out to see exactly where I am and compare to factory settings.

Thanks for this input it appears to be invaluble!

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