Steering Issue...

[Onside135]

Occasionally I ski behind a friend's Moomba Outback ('05...I think). The boat seems to track fairly well, so long as the driver doesn't try to make any corrections. By this, I mean the boat does not get pulled around much by the skier, but when the driver attempts to make a heading correction in the course or even counter the skier, it begins a constant struggle of oscillating between too far left....to too far right. At skiing speeds, the steering wheel seems to have about 2 or 3 inches of turn before it actually moves the rudder and impacts the course of the boat. How is the best way to fix this sloppy steering?

 

The rudder is stock and has not been shaved or adjusted. It does not have a trim tab on it. Thanks in advance for your inputs...

 

 

[qbit]

that doesn't sound right. have you checked to make sure there is no play between the steering and the rudder? Hold the rudder while someone tries to move the steering wheel.

[6balls]

Sounds like too much on center play, something amiss. For a little bit of on-center play the rudder tuning works well to put a little turning tendency on the helm and remove play. I much prefer that as a buoy driver than neutral.

[Onside135]

Thanks guys. I'll look into it the next time we are out in the Moomba. @6balls...are you referring to shaving the rudder when you say "tuning?"

[usaski1]

I feel I need to check that in mine as well.. I have a large dead zone it feels like. I have shaved the rudder, with not much help, It did help a little.

[Jody_Seal]

I would like to know what you guy's are shaving with? do you use aftershave when you are done?

 

Sorry could not resist!!

 

Commonly "grinding the trailing edge" of a rudder is how we put load on it. the key is to know which side of the trailing edge to "grind" on. looking from the rear of the boat Right rotation propeller boats will require "grinding" on the left hand trailing edge, where as left rotation boats the opposite trailing edge. Just like an aircraft wing you are increasing the high and low pressure areas on the rudder. I like to take a grinder to the lake with me plug into a current bush and grind then test and grind more if required. Keep in mind that it is easy to over compensate a rudder and very hard to re-leave it so don't over grind but also don't pet the grinding area like a dog. Also File-ing a rudder is like petting the dog it feels good to the dog but does not accomplish a whole lot!

 

I am a aqua-velva man myself!!!

[6balls]

Sounds like a lot of work. I use the set screws and move the tabs on my rudder : )

[usaski1]

Checked my rudder with someone else tonight, and my boat is pretty tight... not much play at all between turning the wheel, and seeing the rudder move. So I think I gotta grind the @#$@ out of my rudder now to get the right feel. I did take a power grinder to it, and was leary of overdoing it, so I didn't do it much, and so I need to put it back on the trailer (so much work, jaded here at home on the lift!) and grind some more. If you ever over grind, you can compensate by grinding the other edge.. its not the end of the world, or your rudder.

[6balls]

Or you could install a tune-able rudder if it doesn't work out.

[usaski1]

mhmmm... that'l be $350 for a tunable rudder, vs free .. hmm...