Need help with D3 binding plate problems

[Marco]

I have a D3 Leverage rear boot (with the new universal plate) mounted on a HO pattern ski. I have broken 2 plates in the last 2 months and the 3rd one is on it's way out as well. Seems the problem is that the HO pattern holes are further back, leaving a couple inches of plate exposed behind the back of the boot, and every time I pull my boot off, the heel of the boot lifts and bends the plate between the heel of the boot and screw location, because the screws are so far back, and the plate fatigues and eventually fails. I have put bigger fender washers on the screws, but that still does not prevent the heel of the boot from lifting as I pull it off. Has anyone else experienced this problem, or have a solution.

 

I've seen reinforcing plates that go on top of the binding plate, but don't know where to find them. Maybe they will fix the problem??

[BraceMaker]

http://www.d3skis.com/product-p/leverage-rear.htm one pick shows the factory plate. I'd Call D3 on that one. Do you only hit 2 screws? or 4?

[Marco]

I actually hit 3 screws on the furthest back holes. Back before the inserts stripped out, I was able to use the D3 pattern holes that were right behind the boot and never had any problems for years, but those inserts finally stripped out, and I have to use the furthtest ones back.

 

Unfortunately D3 has not been much help, but thats another story.

 

[Wayne]

HO used to and I think still has an aluminum stiffening plate for the rear boot (rear animal boots should still come with it as part of their mounting hardware). See if a local shop has one. I gave a spare plate I had to a friend with the same issue. I think he was on his second or third plate but after that stiffening plate he hasn't bent a single boot plate.

[SkiJay]

Another option would be to replace the stripped inserts in your ski. You can screw out the old ones with an EZ Out (sold at Lowe's etc.) and epoxy in a new set (from your ski dealer, or Performance or Miami Ski etc.)

 

BTW, What kind of ski are you on @Marco? It has a beautiful finish.

[BraceMaker]

I'm with SkiJay, although another idea would be to use some longer stainless screws, cut the heads off, and thread them into the munged/stripped inserts with some redloctite. Once the loctite sets you should be able to use the inserts that are there along with some washers and nuts to support the plate nearer the rear binding.

 

Obviously you would be using 5 inserts instead of three like you are.

 

A third choice would be a product like the reflex bondplates

 

http://www.reflexworld.com/2010SITE/web/images/shop/12carbonds2000.jpg

 

where you would utilize these over the factory inserts. Which is a similar concept to cementing a threaded stud into your skis stripped holes.

[gregy]

my t-factor D3 boots came with a reinforcement plate. I think you could make a plate out of aluminum the would cover the back part of the binding plate and use all three holes.

[Marco]

@Wayne - I lookd on the HO website and couldn't find the stiffening plate. Tomorrow I'll call H2OZ and see if they have them.

 

@Skijay - I'm hesitant to replace the inserts for fear of damaging the ski. I've though about adding new inserts in a new location, but don't want to drill the ski for the same reason. The ski is a Fischer and is on it's 6th season. It skis now like it did when it was brand new. I thought it would feel comparitively dead after skiing the last part of of last season on a new Elite, but when I went back to the Fish, it felt faster and quicker than the new Elite. Anyone want to buy a '11 Elite with a few dozen sets on it?

 

@Bracemaker - Love the idea of epoxying studs into the old inserts. I'll probably do that if I can't find the stiffening plate.

[thager]

Put your bindings on a Radar sequence plate and use the good insert holes. Worked for me on my Fischer 01#

[Marco]

@thager - I have a Reflex front boot. Would that work on a Sequence plate?

[thager]

@Marco Have to experiment but it might.

[acmx]

@Marco, be careful using that stiffening plate, it will put alot more load on the screws and possibly rip your inserts out : been there done that with the older Animal bindings without the laces. Do you completely loosen your laces before pulling your foot out of the binding? That took care of the plate bending for me.

[Marco]

Yeah,I loosen the laces every time. Now I am getting back on the platform and using soap before I pull my rear foot out. Its a PITA, but necessary. Maybe I'll have @Team_Malibu make me a new plate. The D3 plate is just too thin and flexible.

[Wayne]

The plates aren't on the site but should be part of a HO rear binding hardware kit. I looked there before posting too. Make sure to use screws that are long enough to engage most of the threaded insert. Like @acmx said I had inserts strip but found that many of the factory HO screws only engage about 3 or 4 threads. Longer screws cut to the right length fixed that issue for me.

[BraceMaker]

Most screws gain full thread strength once you reach thread depth = diameter of screw, so for a number 8-32 4-5 threads is full strength, if you are stripping these you probably need a torque calibrated screw driver....

[Dirt]

Pull your front foot out first and then place it on the rear plate (over and/or in front of the screws) and pull your rear binding off. You can still rip the binding off the plate but at least it won't damage your inserts or ski.

[LeonL]

Go with what @Dirt says. I always put my front foot on the plate just behind the rear binding to pull it off, pushing against the plate and not the ski. Won't fix the problem, but once repaired should prevent future problems.

[Marco]

I do put my front foot on the back of the rear plate, but with the Reflex boot, the rounded toe prevents the boot from contacting the plate right behind the boot at the point that it flexes. Even when I am standing on the platform, I can't hold the plate down right behind my boot. I guess I could take off my Reflex so I could use my toes to hold the plate down, but that would really be a PITA. I think I will just epoxy studs in the closer holes and be done with it.

 

Thanks for all the input!

[Jody_Seal]

I have the same D-3 leverage rear binding set up, however I dont run my back binding all that tight, Pull strings are loose. I utilize the HO aluminum flat plate instead of fender washers. Keep in mind that The HO animal and approach foot plates will also work with the D-3 leverage binding. They maybe of thicker material also.

[Marco]

I just ordered an HO reinforcement plate from H2 Oz, so that will hopefully fix the problem. I didn't realize that the HO plates also work on a D3 boot. I might look into those if I continue to have a problem. Seems like D3 should make a thicker plate...