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can't believe I'm asking a ballast question...


6balls
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OK, I ski a 196 at the "swamp", but at home on the public lake I still have a near mint '91 Centurion Falcon Barefoot. Lots of space, looks cool, unique, and great for the occasional barefoot run or booze cruise w/friends.

On our public lake it's main duty is pulling kids tubing, kneeboarding and wakeboarding. The outboard HATES kneeboard/wakeboard speed. It either wants to plane or settle in so I'm constantly tweaking the throttle and experimenting with trim. If we've got a boatload of spectators it's easier, but many times it's "Dad, will you take us wakeboarding" and I'm the only one in the boat. As some may know I've also got a history of competitive bench press...so I've got a number of spare 45 lb plates to spare.

Should I put 'em under the hood of the closed bow or behind the back seat near the stern to get her to settle in at kneeboard/wakeboard speeds.

Thoughts appreciated,

THX.

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For wake boarding, I would try the back seat... May keep the nose up consistently and get a better wake.

My thought of them going up front would bring the nose down, but flatten the wakes...

For slalom, up front for sure.

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Actually you need to experiment with the weights. Your goal is to either increase or decrease the speed at which your boat planes off. If you put the weights up front, the boat will plane off at a lower speed but the wake size will suffer some. Likewise, if you put the weight in the back, the boat will plane off at a higher speed and the wake size will be a little bigger.
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Trimming the motor will also (I'm sure you already know that) make a difference with where and how you place the weight. So I think it's more of a trial and error thing. Does beer weigh more then lifting weights per square inch? At least with the beer you could get more precise with the distribution. To many cans....just empty them. I'd start with to many.
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@jfw32, thanks. I'm trying to hold off planing speed so she doesn't climb on top. Once she planes at same throttle setting it can mean 5 or more mph. Same deal if one falls below the curve. Same rpm and lose 5 mph. Looking to make a "pig" of her and drive the power against the non-planing hull.

@wish, the plates weigh more, just trying not to get a panda!

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Screw the Panda. I am thinking about knocking @6Balls from Solid Baller back to New Baller.

 

http://media.tumblr.com/8b8dcc61136329d8d29acb61125ddd1c/tumblr_inline_mh5ihlTJiP1rxe4lt.gif

Shock and despair courtesy http://whatshouldwecallski.tumblr.com

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@6balls 1K lbs will make a noticeable difference for a wakeboarder (more would be better) and as mentioned it will be a balance between planning and wake height/definition. Generally, weight in the rear increases size and weight further forward helps definition. A good starting point would be a 65% back-35% forward ratio and adjust accordingly.

 

I'd highly recommend getting ballast bags w/a high volume pump rather than mess with weights. Leaving that much additional weigh in your boat is tough on your trailer or boat lift and it is a pain to remove that much weight every time you put the boat up. With bags and a high volume pump (1500 gph or more) you can drain them in 10 minutes or so. Also, if your stern seat is removable you can place a bag in its place and it can be used as a seat.

 

 

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@inboardfix thanks. I'm not super concerned about the wake quality. If my kids ever got serious I would bite the bullet and upgrade the boat. Overall, just trying to make it more driveable at the speed necessary so I'm not having to constantly make throttle adjustments.

 

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