Finding the right ZO setting

[Moggie]

Not sure how necessary this is for a skier of my level (PB 2 @ 22off 36mph) but I thought I’d see if there’s a ZO setting that’s better for me rather than just using the default B2. Is there a preferred method to finding the ideal setting, ie find the right letter first then the number or visa versa?

[ozski]

@Moggie It's about what you feel most comfortable with. There is no right or wrong answer although A1 is probably not a good option, I think at your level B2 is probably worth sticking with. Set and forget until your working on deep -32 / -35 - Your mental energy is better spent working on your technique, put ZO in the back of your mind and work on form.

[skier2788]

@scotchipman‌ I run A3 at 36 mph with a tourney best of 0.5@38. Wouldn't have gone there either if mapple hadn't suggested it.

@Moggie‌ originally I found mine by starting at a speed and length I am extremely comfortable with and just trying them all in the same set. Change after every pass and just see what feels good. If at b2 try b1 then b3 then try c2 then c1 then c3. You will find it pretty quick.

[SkiJay]

ZO is very technique specific, so never mind what works for anyone else. It's far better if you understand what you are changing with each setting so you can pick a pull that best suits your personal style.

 

Some skiers keep a nice tight rope all the way around the apex of the turn. Others have a little bit of slack until they are finished the turn. ZO has no idea where the skier is. All it knows is when it feels a tug. That tug triggers a timer. A/B/C determine how long the timer runs before ZO gasses the boat. "A" has the longest pause and "C" has the shortest pause after the triggering tug. If you tend to trigger the timer right at the ball, or very shortly thereafter, you may need a little more time to get into a stacked position than someone who skis all the way around the ball into their stack before putting any load on the rope. The guy who loads early may need an "A" setting while the guy who loads late needs the more immediate response of "C". In this regard, it has little to do with your weight or ability. It's all about how much time you need between triggering the ZO timer and being ready for ZO to hit the throttle.

 

The 1/2/3 is about how aggressively ZO gasses the boat after the timer has run out. "1" ramps the power up slowly, and "3" ramps it up urgently. How much support do you need from the rope when the power comes on? If you need a little extra time to establish a good stack, the more relaxed acceleration of "1" will buy you a little more time. If you typically drop into a lean-lock right out of the ball, or if you weigh a lot, you will benefit from the urgent support "3" provides.

 

The easiest way to think of what the + has to offer is that it could have easily been called D/E/F. The time between trigger and gas for A+ is faster and more intense than it is for C. B+ and C+ are even more urgent and aggressive. The reason they didn't go with D/E/F was that the + does somthing differently than A/B/C. The + settings all approach the gates at a slightly higher speed so big guys don't get hammered through the gates.

 

There you go @Moggie‌. Hopefully this will help you understand what it is you are tailoring to your personal technique. It does make a difference.

[Onside135]

...and then all boats can be different...and different motors within like boats may feel different...Good Luck!

[Moggie]

Cheers all. I'll have a little play and see what works.

[rockdog]

@skijay that is the best explanation I've read.

[Wish]

@SkiJay‌ What @rockdog said.