Are your bindings is the right place? An Experiment

[Horton]

@aupatking

if you measure where the back of the plate meets the plate that is stock. If you really want to compare boot to boot you need to use your front inside ankle bone

[aupatking]

47 minutes ago, Horton said:

@aupatking

if you measure where the back of the plate meets the plate that is stock. If you really want to compare boot to boot you need to use your front inside ankle bone

I was thinking maybe some marking on front plates along the ankle bone…. But, now we have Radar’s carbon plate that has the ability to accommodate more different boot sizes than ever before. That looks like it will likely move the heel/ankle from size to size. 
I think we’re just stuck figuring it out

[Drago]

There is no "standard" foot or standard ankle bone location (.) Thats like saying, Men weigh 190 lbs and women weigh 120 lbs.

[Horton]

@drago Yes but IF the factory has done a good job the stock setting should be pretty close to idea for most skiers.  Different shaped skis certainly have different sweet spots.

[Drago]

I was referring to the "there should be a marking at your ankle " comment. I would add, bigger feet tend to move back from stock (likely because of inside ankle bone to heel distance) and I never met a shortline skier who moved bindings forward from stock

[Horton]

@Drago big feet and big hands means big bindings and big gloves. yeah I agree with you that all of this is just reference points.

As far as short lines skiers going forward, some of the Radar guys run their bindings a little forward to manage offside tail slide. To your point... forward of an fuzzy reference point.

I'm currently on Goode XTR Team. My bindings are back at 10th of an inch from stock not to change my turns but to make the ski faster out of the ball.

[BraceMaker]

@Drago take a ski that skis well for you as is.  Measure your front binding.  Make a note of where that number is vs. factory - 29.75 instead of 29.5 - start that 1/4" more on other skis and then move it.

Of all the potential settings on a ski boot position is the no brainer run it forwards and backwards big moves till you find what feels better and then refine it.

[Dano]

@BraceMaker great advice.  Big moves is key.  I had a hard time getting it right until i was told to start by going as far forward as I could,  followed by as far back as I could get.  Thank god I got that advice  when i did.  I was ready to sell the ski in frustration thinking it just wasn't the ski for me.  Got the boot in the right spot and I'm pretty sure this is my ski until it breaks now.  turns out a 1/4" in the right direction makes a really big difference. 

 

[Horton]

@Dano 1/8" can make all the difference - in some cases.

I am not sure I am on board with your "big moves" theory. Old school "one hole" is 3/8s. In my mind that is a radical change from stock. Rarely am I ever that far from stock. 

 

[BraceMaker]

By big moves enough to make a clear decision what is better more so that actual measurement. If you have microjust and you cannot tell if its better or worse or the same by moving it one tooth at a time then go 4 teeth.  Is it better worse or the same?  If no different go 4 teeth the opposite direction from stock.  Better worse or same.  

Once you decide which way is better fine tune.

 

[Horton]

@BraceMaker so you are not suggesting 1/2" or 3/4" moves.

I like 1/8" to 1/10" moves.

[Dano]

@Horton I'm sure you are not wrong.  But you are a better, more experienced skier than guys like me and have a better feel for the changes.  The big move suggestion came from TW who was telling me to do the big moves so that the results leave no mistake as to what the effects were.  Both intial moves for me skied terrible but I quickly discovered that one of them did solve the problem I was trying to fix so i just had to make a few tweaks to get it right.

Edited July 31, 2023 by Dano

[Horton]

@Dano Yea TW is pretty wise.

[skialex]

Big moves scare the hell out of me… fin or boots… same as when trying a new ski. I’m usually very cautious from the start to the first cut through the gates, by then usually I know if it’s ok or it scares me…

[Drago]

15 hours ago, BraceMaker said:

@Drago take a ski that skis well for you as is.  Measure your front binding.  Make a note of where that number is vs. factory - 29.75 instead of 29.5 - start that 1/4" more on other skis and then move it.

Of all the potential settings on a ski boot position is the no brainer run it forwards and backwards big moves till you find what feels better and then refine it.

@BraceMakerThanks, I’m good.

[skibug]

TW gave me the same advice, big moves.  I was a little skeptical, not doubting TW, but uneasy about how I would handle it.  Turns out big moves, both fin and binding, helped me get in the correct "zone" for binding location and fin concept, the old debate of long and shallow versus short and deep.  Then little tweaks come into play. 

[Dano]

I’ve done big moves with both fin and bindings.   The goal is to be  feeling out the ski and the effects of the changes,  not to run a PB.  I both cases I was able to run passes it’s not like the ski was sending me out the front or tumbling out the back unexpectedly.  

[DW]

I would suggest also that if a big move does not work, at least go half way back to previous to verify you didn't go past a sweet spot.

It would be nice if there was some sort of 'centerline' mark aka snow skis.  It would make a good reference to the binding location measurement that is given.  Binding mounting holes on different skis are not even close to similar across brands, my reflex plate is not even close to centered for the recommended measurement from tail.

@Horton - thx for reviving the thread & fingers crossed on finding the pics. Those were good IIRC.

[Horton]

after nationals I will recreate the original pictures. the originals are lost forever.