Propeller Stuck on the shaft

[kfennell]

I have a 2012 carbon pro, the prop hasn't been off the shaft for at least 500 hours.

 

I got the nut off no problem, put on an OJ prop puller, no go. Took it off, hit the prop from the back with a hammer and AWL, no go, ok put the puller back on, hit it wth the hammer, no go. Go borrow a newer OJ puller that has a pointy piece in the middle, STILL no go.

 

Watching the videos now, maybe I put it on too tight before I hit it? Is that possible? I was doing it pretty tight before I hit it with the hammer. Seems like it should still work though?

 

Thoughts?

[seks69]

Put the puller on and tighten about as tight as you can get it. Get a propane torch and start heating the prop. Be careful, when it gets hot enough it will pop off with a loud bang and the puller will go flying.

 

[alex38]

Keep looking, there is a technique, jody seal will know, but leave the nut a little threaded at the end so when the prop comes free it doesn't go flying.

 

The toughest one I had needed puller, and a hammer, started not too tight and tightened a little at a time, a good puller should do it.

[Wayne]

You can also tap the prop hub with a hammer while the prop puller is clamped on. Some times the combination of heat from a torch and some vibration from hitting it with the pull of the prop tool will break it free. I had the same issue with my old boat and the above trick broke the prop free.

 

Oh and make sure you leave the prop nut partially threaded on. I made that mistake once and ended up with a few dings in a prop when it bounced off the trailer.

[oldjeep]

Typically I put the puller on as tight as I can and then beat the crap out of the bolt on the puller to shock the prop loose. I wouldn't smack the prop directly.

[jimski]

Just put the puller on snug not over tight don't leave the nut on it will melt all the nylon out of it and heat it up when the brass expands it will pop right off never beat a brass prop with a hammer

[brody]

Shoot a little anti seize on it such as wd-40 while its under tension. You won't need to beat the prop

[aupatking]

I second the ask @Jody_Seal . I've seen a really good technique on it, but can't remember if it was here or correctcraftfan.com or nautique forum. I think it was something Jody wrote though. I could be wrong, I've just come to realize there's the way most of us do things, then there's the right way. That seems to be the only way he does things. I've used the puller, propane torch, wooden block, and brass hammer. The torch helps, but again, ask Jody. Generally answers you've never thought of that you should have

[boarditup]

I've never had to use a torch. I typically use PB Blaster and let it soak in for a while. Use several applications. Typically, the issue is metal binding, so the lubricant does not help all that much. What does work is tension and a 2 or 5 lbs hand sledge hammer. The vibration releases the metal. Be sure to follow the advice to leave the prop nut threaded - you only need to back it off about 1/4" or so from prop contact. Replace the nut with a new one - do not reuse.

 

No, you will not damage the boat if you strike directly in line with the prop shaft. You may have to hit it really hard several times.

[Jordan]

I have also heard that leaving the prop puller on and under tension will work....definitely leave the prop nut on, but loosened.

[Jody_Seal]

like the man said load the puller, get a torch and heat the hub of the propeller. then smack the back side of the puller. Careful things are hot!

[bbruzzese]

Definitely leave the nut on...couldn't believe how the prop flew off the first time I pulled one. If the nut wasn't on it likely would have hit me in the head.

[bishop8950]

Torch

[liquid d]

Bigger hammer

[jhughes]

Keep in mind that when you guys are beating on your prop shaft you're putting that impact force directly into your transmission output bearings.

 

On any tapered joint that you're applying tons of force to with a rigid puller, time is your friend. Crank the puller down nice and tight and crack a beer. Wait for the bang. No bang? Give it a few cranks, and continue with the beer. Repeat as needed!

[Jody_Seal]

We just got done heating one up a few min ago. New prop back on. the only extra time it took was getting the torch cart to the front of the shop.

FYI the output bearings and races are pretty stout in the transmissions. ever see a single taper shaft get pulled from it's coupler? we use a big slide hammer!!

Problem with jhughes advice is your liable to get too damn drunk waiting on the "bang" !

[DmaxJC_ski]

Heat is your friend! Even a heat gun will work. The brass has an extremely high thermal conductivity so it will probably take more then you think. Careful the whole thing will be hot!