different ZO setting for 6 liter 200?

[Ilivetoski]

For the state tournament I skied behind a 6L 200 and it felt different than the 5.7 that I occasionally ski behind. It took someone reminding me that it was a 6... Anyway at B2 it felt WAY different than B2 on the 5.7... Do other people use different settings depending on the engine size? I felt like I should have been using A3 or B3 instead.

[ozski]

Honestly I think you have to be pretty good to pick the difference with all the other variables in play. Don't let it get inside your head.

[PhilSymo]

there is this article.... which suggests some top level Ballers do change settings a bit depending on boats...

 

http://www.waterskimag.com/features/2013/11/05/talk-to-the-pros-which-zero-off-letter-are-you/

[John Brooks]

I'm not a top level skier and can tell the difference. With a 5.7 liter I use C2 and with a 6 liter B2. Just that little change helps me. Good luck.

[LeonL]

I skied the same 200 as @Ilivetoski however only 32mph. I used C2, but I use C2 with my 196. Obviously a 5.7 196 is stronger than a 5.7 200, so maybe that worked best for me, as it felt ok. I drove that boat in the next group following me and two high level skiers (into 39) used C2. I believe they used C2 in the previous round with the 5.7 MC. Not apples to apples, just info.

[skiboat38]

Did it feel WAY more different than the rope you had been using that was 2 feet too long??????

[Kelvin]

I use C1 behind my daily practice boat (a 2011 6L 200) and also use the same C1 behind all the other boats I ski (a combination of 5.7 and 6Ls from all companies). I'm not a high level skier, but I can't really tell the difference.

[Ilivetoski]

@skiboat38 boat felt good... Just different... Same with the rope. And it was about 1 foot and 4 inches too long at 32

[The_MS]

Move up to C2 and you will be happy. I move from B1 to C1 when I get a 6L 200.

 

[skosney]

I haven't played with adjusting the settings when switch to a strong pulling boat because I typically ski better when the pull is a bit firmer that normal. However, I have made adjustments in the past when I know the boat pull will be softer than normal. It has been my experience that a change in number setting is a better form of compensation than a letter setting. When I was running B2 would change to B3 if the pull felt soft. I have not had to make this adjustment since I changed to C1 but instinctively I would use C2 to compensate if needed. Of course if you already run a 3 setting that won't work. I view the letter setting as when/where you want the pull to start and the number setting as when/where you want is to stop. (the "plus" settings provide an additional spectrum within the settings array)

[skibug]

C2 on every boat, 5.7 or 6.0

[skierjp]

I was a judge in the boat for the Big Dawg at Okeeheelee. I think the first 10 or so skiers used A2 and then we were switching between C2 and A2. I only remember one B2.

[Razorskier1]

I don't want to be worrying about the boat, but focused on what I'm doing. I use C1 on all boats. I ski a 6.2L ProStar at home, and a 5.7L TXi at the private site. Same setting on both. Bigger difference is the difference in water. The water at home is clear, cool, and always feels hard. Water at the private site (man-made) always feels soft and accommodating. I think that would be true regardless of boat.

[londonskier]

Can someone explain what do the numbers do? I thought they determined the rev range, ie whether the revs come on in a short burst (3) or whether they were more drawn out (1). I've switched to A3 recently and like it. Feels like the pull comes on later after the turn. But what exactly do the numbers do?

[Jordan]

The Letters

A: The A setting results in a slower engine response to your cut, meaning you will be farther out of your turn before the pull increases. Additionally, the pull will stay on longer as you approach your next turn. If your style favors a smoother, longer turn, you may benefit from the extra time to get your body position set before the load increases.

 

B: The B setting is best described as a moderate engine response. The boat’s rpm will increase slightly later than with setting A, and back off slightly earlier as you approach the next turn. B is often credited as the “go-to” setting, fitting most slalom styles. Setting B is a great choice for skiers trying to adapt quickly to the Zero Off pull.

 

C: The C setting gives you the fastest engine response. The load will come on very close to the finish of your turn and back off earlier as you approach the following turn. This setting works particularly well for a skier whose style includes a faster turn.

 

Inside the Numbers

The next step in determining your perfect personal setting is to select an accompanying number for your letter. The number component of your setting is much more subtle than the letter, but just as important. The 1, 2 and 3 options regulate how much load (pull) the skier needs to put on the boat to initiate the rpm swing. This will be felt as a stronger or softer pull.

 

1: The 1 setting requires the least amount of skier load to initiate the boat’s rpm swing. This will feel like an overall softer pull behind the boat. If your goal is to minimize line tension, taking a more conservative cut into the wakes, you will benefit from this setting’s response.

 

2: The 2 setting is the midpoint setting. It requires a comparatively moderate amount of load from the skier to initiate the boat’s rpm swing. The pull will feel slightly stronger behind the boat than with setting 1. Like setting B, this is a good starting point for most skiers looking to familiarize themselves with the system.

 

3: The 3 setting requires the greatest amount of load on the rope to initiate the boat’s rpm swing. The result will be a stronger pull. If you are a big cutter, taking a good amount of load into the wakes, you will appreciate the stiffer pull.

 

http://www.waterskimag.com/features/2010/03/24/zero-off-settings-exposed/

 

[LeonL]

There has been, in the past, some graphs posted here that make the above explanation easier to understand. Try searching for that.

[skosney]

I have heard the number settings explained a bit differently. Rather than being the amount of load required to engage and increase in RPM, they represent the actual level of RPM increase once the system in engaged (as determined by the Letter setting). 1 being the lightest and 3 being the strongest. So in reality the number setting dictates when the RPM increase will end. 1 being a lower RPM increase will remain engaged longer that than 2 or 3.

 

There is a graphical representation of this that makes this very clear. From studying this I decided to change my ZO setting from B2 to C1. According to the chart this change would provide the results of a quicker engagement (which I prefer) but would remain engaged for a similar duration as B2. (C2 shut down too early for me).

 

I'll see if I can find the chart, which I think I pulled from a Mapple discussion on ZO settings.

 

 

[Dacon62]

I think this picture explains it well.

 

[LeonL]

@Dacon62 , yeah I believe that's a correct depiction. And as far as I can tell, a + setting just comes in to the course with some level of ramped up speed and and settles back to actual by the one ball. It doesn't seem to have an impact other than that.

[bishop8950]

Many people I know would run a different setting going from a 5.7 200 to a 6L 200. I do.

 

Whether you can feel the difference depends on what type of skier you are and how much you weigh. Lighter skiers fell the ZO differences less.

 

I will stay away from the subject of what setting to use but generally follow the picture reference @Dacon62 posted.