98 CC Rudder Loading, Packing, and Bimini

[BCM]

I picked up a new to me 98 CC a few months ago and have been getting things sorted out this spring. It was a great deal, but there are some minor repairs in order. The interior is a little rough, but mechanically it is in good shape.

 

I just replaced the steering cable (not exactly a fun task) and it drives great, but has zero pull. Unfortunately it doesn't have the adjustable rudder. I know my ski partners will be much happier pulling me with a loaded rudder. I can't justify the $650 for an adjustable rudder. I have heard different things about which side of the rudder to file/grind. Leading edge or trailing edge? Drivers side or passenger side (of boat, not car)? I do a lot of metal work and am competent with a file/angle grinder and know that less is more. My plan once I figure out which edge is one pass with the grinder then test drive.

 

The boat looks to be taking on a fair amount of water. I am ordering prop shaft packing this week. I was looking at the Gore Tex GFO material. Thoughts? How about rudder packing? The boat has 650 hours on it and I assume the rudder packing hasn't been changed. Does it require removal of the fuel tank or can you make it happen with long arms? Any other typical problem spots for water intrusion? After about 3 sets I have to run the bilge. A friend recently had a cracked muffler box which I plan on checking as well as all hoses.

 

The boat has no top. I have been looking around and found a range of prices from about $300-$1000. Does anyone have a suggestion on a shop in the greater Portland OR area? Olympia? How about online? My only concern with online is shipping may be a bit pricey. I would really like to come in around $500 or less.

 

Thank you.

[rodltg2]

I was wondering what "rubber " loading was ! Grind right side

[Wish]

@BCM believe it or not, folks sell bimini tops on the cheap on CL. Especially in areas along the coast or areas heavily populated with lakes. If you're not in a hurry to get one and want to do it on the cheap, you should be able to find one that would match. I found one that came off a center console boat and matched perfectly. Had to modify the length of the arms (very easy to do) but after that you'd think it came with the boat. It doesnt have to come off a ski boat. About all that needs to be correct is the width.

[liquid d]

He means starboard side.

[Bruce_Butterfield]

On the rudder, you want to grind the trailing edge of the left side. (liquid d is dyslexic). Go look at a Nautique with the tab and it will be pointed to the right. The props on Mastercraft and Malibu turn the wrong way, so you grind the right side on those boats.

 

Replacing the packing on both the rudder an shaft are a good idea and the goretex will last much longer than the wax rope packing. You can get to the rudder without too much standing on your head:) Check Discount Inboard Marine www.skidim.com for virtually any parts you need. While you are in there, its a good idea to add a zerk fitting on the rudder so you can squirt a little grease in periodically.

 

I wouldn't be surprised if the muffler leak is the dominant source of your water intrusion. I've had to patch mine twice and its a common problem. Is the water in the bilge warm? If its coming from the shaft or rudder, it will be lake temp. The muffler box can be patched with fiberglass, but may require removal and be sure you find the crack.

[Mateo_Vargas]

Nautiques you grind on left side. All other boats are right side.

[Orlando76]

What color top are you looking for? I've got a purple one that came on my '93, good condition. Might could dye it. For what I'd want for it, might could ship it and have new fabric made and be less than $500 for sure.

[BCM]

@rodltg2 - Thanks - I edited the title...

 

I will be ordering the Gore Tex packing material later today. If I pull the muffler box to inspect it will likely make getting to the rudder packing a little easier. It can't be too much more head standing than pulling the steering cable through the hole under the bow...

 

I heard of the muffler box leak after my last trip to the lake. I was planning on checking bilge water temp during my next trip.

 

Grind trailing (rear) edge on left (passenger) side. There is a similar boat (99 I think) at my lake with the adjustable rudder, it points right (I believe). It would make sense to remove material on the opposite side. This is taking me back to college physics...

 

@Orlando76 - I'm looking for green. I am sure I can find fabric in the greater Portland area at a good price. I'll PM you regarding the top, I may have an easy way to transport it.

 

Thank you for the quick responses.

[liquid d]

Good thing I have Jody.

[6balls]

My 2000 took on water via rudder packing when I bought it. Did steering cable and rudder packing which DID require gas tank removal. Has driven like magic since...tho I have adjustable rudder.

[rodltg2]

@"Mateo Vargas" oh yeah , you think I would know that. !

[rodltg2]

Mine is likely grinded. It's in the water right now. When I pull it out later I'll snap a pic

[oldjeep]

Make sure to check for missing tracking fin screws and loose platform brackets. Those were the big water intrusion points on my inlaws Malibu. You ought to be able to see how fast water is coming in from the shaft seal.

[Mateo_Vargas]

@rodltg2 I understand how you could get confused. I think you have owned every inboard boat made at some point in time.

[BCM]

@6balls - I hope I can stand on my head and re-pack without pulling the tank, but if not I guess it gives me a chance to clean the outside of the tank and back of the hull... I would like the adjustable rudder, but I can't justify the cost at this point.

 

@oldjeep - I will have to check tracking fin screws and platform brackets. My plan is to re-pack and then run the motor out of water (with water in cooling system). Running out of water will help identify cooling/exhaust leaks. The re-packing should eliminate that variable. If I still can't figure it out, my next plan of action is to put some water in it and see where it comes out. If it is something like a loose bracket, I figure it it comes in, it should come out... I don't think the majority is coming from the drive shaft, I adjusted the packing the other day and it leaked, but not enough to be the only source of water. Though with the old packing material I had two options, fire hydrant or barely dripping and they were about 1/4 turn apart. I haven't pulled the rear floor piece to inspect rudder packing with the boat in the water.

[oldjeep]

Would t recommend trying to fill the inside of the boat with enough water to find a platform bracket leak;). And if you decide to fill it up at all make sure you don't submerge the rudder end of the steering cable

[6balls]

Before changing it my rudder packing was letting in quite a bit of water...it can be a pretty big source of leakage.

[slow]

I have a 1999 nautique that took on water. The source was both the muffler and the speedometer tube that had been disconnected for perfect pass gage installation.

 

Took me awhile to figure it out.

[BCM]

@oldjeep - filling the boat is a last resort...

 

Packing arrived today, should have it in this weekend. Rain on the way and an ankle sprain, so it may be a few weeks before I get it back in the water.

 

@slow - given some of the other short cuts I noticed with the PP install I will be looking for that speedo tube...

[JAG]

Rudder Loading? On my MB, the boat has a constant, ever so slight pull to starboard. Is that rudder loading? I kind of prefer the neutral steering all the other boats in our club have. (two Prostars, and a Response). So I was thinking of how to make mine steer more neutral but am I to understand that the slight pull is desirable?

 

thanks,

 

rpg

[rodltg2]

Grind the other side to make it neutral !