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Diacomm software


oldjeep
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Last thread must have gotten deleted because of the link.

 

S0 - anyone know of a less expensive place to buy the Diacomm CAN kit that has the software and 3 standard interface cables? Or is it $699 no matter where you buy it from? Really only need the 94029 adapter but they seem to sell with the 94005 and 94006 without an option for only the one CAN adapter.

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Heck! That's Cheap. Especially if one is not a dealer or have obtained accreditation from one of the service schools and can buy it on line at that price.

I paid more for mine and had to provide certification to purchase..

 

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Rinda has it priced online at $699 for the version with 3 cables and around $1100 for the version with a bunch of them. Never seen anywhere that says you need permission to buy it but I sent Rinda an email now to make sure. Can't imagine needing any sort of certification, appears to just be an overpriced version of what you can buy to scan a car. I think I've got a grand total of $120 into my OBD2 scan tool and software.

 

Rinda Pricelist

Diacom at MichiganMotorz

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Thankfully it looks like I can hold off on the software purchase, my cylinder 3 misfire finally cleared. Supposed to clear 3 90-150 cycles after the problem goes away so it appears that the plug wire may have been the issue (replacing the corroded distributor cap and swapping the new plug hadn't cleared it after the first 3 cycles).

 

Nice that you can see the SPN/FMI codes in the Malivue, would be even nicer if they gave you a code clear button in it or a visual fault counter so that you could see if you had fixed the issue right away.

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I picked up an adjustable resistor and soldered a plug and wire onto it. I swap out the temp sensor on the intake manifold with it and I can very quickly simulate a number of heat cycles to quickly clear codes in a matter of minutes rather than days. Plug the stock sensor back in and all is good. I'm way too cheep to pay for the Diacomm.
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@Billbert - the other reason for wanting the Diacomm was to be able to see what the recorded values were when the error tripped. Even though it was showing a misfire I would have never noticed, seemed to be running fine. You can only swap in so many cheap parts to fix a misfire before you get to the cam sensors and injectors and in those cases it would be nice to know before buying new ones.

 

Love the resistor trick, sounds a lot better than hitching up the boat every day, pulling it out of the garage and running it for 5 minutes then putting it back.

 

I'll wind up getting it eventually, still cheaper than a trip to the dealer service and a lot quicker

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I looked at the techmate, $100 cheaper but looks like you can't see a ton on the screen at one time. And you are tied to a proprietary device with only one place to get it fixed. When I get the diacomm eventually I'll pick up a $50 dell 1010 or something similar to keep in boat. The software doesn't look like it needs much of a laptop to run on
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@Bry - just another tool so you can use the rest of your tools. As complicated as these boats (and cars) are now you either need to go to the dealer or own the tools for anything more than regular maint items.
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@2788

I received the product from Rinda.

They were helpful and quick.

As it turned out I replaced the tps , and fuel pump. Boat is running top notch, engine light codes are off.

Sotoo busy skiing to play with it.

But for sure, next issue that pops up having the tool will take any pressure off from having to visit the "dealer" mafia.

Thanks

 

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Diacom is a great tool. I got mine used from a boat tech that retired so I did save some money. I have the software on my laptop. Way better than the scan tool because you can see EVERYTHING on one big screen and not have to scroll through it all. If you fix your boat one time you have already paid off the price. SO many people these days just throw sensors and parts at a motor because "my buddys was because of this" "my boat did this and I replaced that and it worked" ! Also, Diacom lets you see how many REAL hours are on an engine and what RPM range all the hours were in. So when buying a boat you can see if they just put a new hr meter/gauge in two years ago or if its the original with the actual hrs on it. It will NOT make a great mechanic out of someone that is NOT a mechanic though. You need to know what you are looking at.
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Please let us know if it's useful in diagnosing your misfire. I've held off from buying it myself because the Linc electronic dash on the 200 will read and display the fault codes from the ECU. That's not all the data you can get from the Diacom, but it's the most critical data. But I suspect the live data from Diacom could be very helpful for some issues.

 

In terms of misfires, it's my understanding that unlike car ECUs, the eControls marine ECU does not do ignition misfire detection. Which limits the usefulness of Diacom for diagnosing misfires since the ECU doesn't have much data about misfires. Car ECUs do misfire detection largely because the EPA requires it.

 

I do wonder if the new direct injection engines have implemented misfire detection in that version of the marine ECU.

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@oldjeep already said it was cylinder 3, which I would guess he knows by age old method of pulling plug wires. I think the info he's looking for is why.....

 

@oldjeep, what engine do you have? Is it a single coil engine with a traditional distributor or a coil per cylinder engine?

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@jpwhit - My Malibu shows me the fault codes, what I need is the sensor data because aside from the random fault code it is running fine - no missing. So I'm trying to figure out if the cam/crank sensors are giving off reading or what is making it think that there is a misfire.

 

Engine is a Indmar Monsoon 350SS - traditional distributor - HVS system

 

When it happened this time it was really odd. I was accelerating and at about 40MPH when all the sudden the alarm kicked in as the throttle dropped completely out. Then everything was fine for the rest of the day aside from the stupid alarm going off every 6 minutes (another 3 hours of run time)

 

erpthstir1zm.jpg

 

 

 

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After a little digging, it looks likes Indmar did start implementing misfire detection at some point, because I see those fault codes in their service manuals. I assume that's likely true for other marinizers like PCM as well. But it looks like when it was added varies by marinizers, because I don't see fault codes for engine misfire detection in early version of the PCM EX-343 for example. I'm a little surprised since they all use eControls ECUs. But they must be slightly different by marinizer.

 

Thinking about it a little more, this also makes sense given that marine engines now have catalytic converters, which can overheat and be damaged if the engine is run with a misfire. So I expect they all implemented it by the time they added catalytic converters.

 

Keep in mind that the way ECU's typically implement misfire detection is by monitoring differences in angular velocity of the crank or camshaft for each firing of a cylinder. So any issue that results in a particular cylinder producing less power than it's neighbors can generate the fault. So typical things that can cause this code are not just ignition components such as plugs, wires, and coils, but it can also be caused by low compression in a cylinder or a sticking or partially plugged injector. You may not be able to "feel" the misfire like you would when a cylinder is completely not firing, it just has be a certain percentage different than the other cylinders.

 

Common components like crank/cam sensor, coil in a single coil system, will more often than not generate codes for multiple cylinders. If the code is always a certain cylinder, it's usually a component that's specific to that cylinder.

 

Like with a lot of engine issues, a compression test is a good place to start just to rule out that type of issue.

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Well, I've put another 5 hours on it with no trouble codes. Had the Diacom software running and logging, not even a single knock sensor trigger let alone a misfire. I did fill it up with 91 octane just in case I'd gotten some bad gas - although it only impacting one cylinder would be weird. Likely only get another 3-5 hours this season.
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I would verify if you even have a MAT or IAT sensor before putting to much thought into the -40 reading. -40 will read if there is NO sensor supplied by the manufacturer as well. Did you try clearing the codes and see if they come back up? You can save your current data before you clear it all. Maybe it was just bad gas and now that you filled up with 91 it is gone? Does this engine have individual coils? Maybe ohm them all out and see if one is way off from the rest.
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