Baller rodltg2 Posted August 16, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 16, 2016 Couple questions. Just replaced the steering cable today. Boy was that fun. Actually not to bad other than getting old one snagged which delayed my time. Although the steering is better not quite as smooth as I would like. First question. Where can a get a remote grease port replacement line. Mine split at the port end . I cut the split part off but it has an insert I could not remove and slide back into the good part of the line. Second , if I need to drop the rudder and re pack. Can this be done without removing the gas tank. It looks possible but really tight on room. Third , is there anything at the helm to address ? Anything to grease , adjust ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller schafer Posted August 16, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 16, 2016 i second all of these questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Drago Posted August 16, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 16, 2016 I have a '97 with no grease port. Drop the rudder every year to regrease and it takes about 15 minutes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller 6balls Posted August 16, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 16, 2016 On my 2000 if I pull back the steering helm boot and slowly rotate I find a recessed allen screw. The nut on the opposite side is recessed as well so one only needs to tighten the allen screw. It's tedious can't get much of a turn each time maybe only 1/8th of a turn. Mine has come loose twice causing first a little looser steering, then kind of a sticky spot, then to a stuck spot. When tight it's really nice (I had a new cable and rudder pack in 2011). Second time this happened I caught it right away now knowing the issue before it got sticky or stuck (which could be dangerous). This was just a few weeks ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller_ Bruce_Butterfield Posted August 16, 2016 Baller_ Share Posted August 16, 2016 I have a '97 which should be nearly identical. Yes the rudder can be dropped without removing the tank. Really pretty easy after you've done it once - you want to have someone outside holding the rudder from dropping to the ground or put something underneath so it only can fall a few inches. Once it's loose, it will fall quickly. I had to add the zerk fitting to the rudder box and squirt it every 10 hrs or so. I notice a difference right away after greasing. I turn the wheel all the way one direction, one squirt, turn all the way to the other direction and squirt again. You should probably replace the rudder packing while you're at it. The helm - yes those parts where out. Disconnect the cable from the helm and the wheel should turn easily. If not, the easiest thing is to replace all the moving parts. A little silicon or Teflon spray may help, but most likely it will need replacing. I did mine a few years ago and I think it was around $100 for the parts. For any parts you ever need, use skidim.com or nautiqueparts.com (I think that's the right url). I use skidim a lot and the have excellent tech support and can answer pretty much any question. If it was easy, they would call it Wakeboarding Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller BCM Posted August 16, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 16, 2016 @rodltg2 - For me I have to load my boat a little long on the trailer to drop the rudder, if I load it normally the rudder will hit the prop guard before it is completely free. If you do not put something/someone under the rudder it will fall straight out. I second rudder packing. It is quick and easy, the adjustment of the packing nut can also result in a little friction if too tight. Mine was terrible when it came out. I also second going over the helm. When I did my cable a few months ago I went through the helm and nothing was worn out (650 hours) but some of the bolts had loosened up a little. In terms of doing rudder service with the tank in. It isn't too bad. At 5'10" I was able to reach everything while laying next to the transmission with the tank in. I do suggest a good set of ratcheting end wrenches for those hard to reach places. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baller Waternut Posted August 20, 2016 Baller Share Posted August 20, 2016 Adding a zerk fitting only works if there is enough of a gap in the packing to allow grease to flow in. We did that on our 2000 SN and had to cut the packing short but it works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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