Using an Insta-Slalom permanently?

[jcamp]

Does anybody use an Insta-Slalom course as a permanent course? If so, have you experienced any issues? Any precautions to take to help it hold up?

[Orlando76]

That's what we permanently leave in our public lake. Inflatable balls are impossible to keep up with so for the boat lane we use spongex guides sawed in half. On one end we have a monster sailboat anchor, not more than 20 pounds or so but its probably 4' long and has a claw probably 15" tall. Other end we poured two rectangle laundry baskets with concrete and an eye bolt. Give up on pregates, that extra length in the main line just acts more like a sail and makes it bow easier. This has worked much much easier than a 5 gallon buckets on both ends. Keep in mind a round weight will role.

[BCM]

I spent many years with one. I think we used buckets with concrete and rebar stuck through so it looks like a midevil weapon, and doesn't roll. We also hung small (I believe 10lb) weights on the anchor line between the anchor and the 55s. We were able to use pre-gates, but we used really long anchor lines so that you could tension without sinking the 55s. If it got windy it bent, but by then it was a bit windy to ski anyway. This was in over 100' deep water, really long anchor lines. We used used (and properly rinsed) coolant jugs for boat guides. I would also suggest using some sort of sub-buoy setup and/or making sure you leave the junior course on, if the turn ball gets knocked off without any flotation on the arm it can twist causing some issues.

 

Given that the lake level was constantly fluctuating (2-3 feet a day at certain times of year) we had to constantly tension then on occasion move anchors. Get an anchor suited for the bottom of your lake (e.g. don't use a muck anchor if its solid rock...). Our buckets with rebar sticking 12" out on 4 sides worked for us, but wouldn't work other places.

[skier2788]

If it has poly line it will stretch after a very long period of time under water. After 3 seasons or so ours would stretch enough ZO wouldn't map it correctly. We finally got smarter and bought the cable main line.

[Andre]

We've been using an E Z slalom with SS mainline for 10 years now.We had to recrimp after 5 years and we sink it in during winter.Course is always in water.We use heavy homemade steel Danforth style anchor,about 100 lbs each end.

No problems at all.We used copper crimps when we recrimped the course wich seems to last better then the SS crimps in our water.

55's are independent from the mainline in our case...

[Orlando76]

@Andre independent 55's is what I'm considering and would recommend. We're also using PP classic w magnets. This past season we've had good luck and course stayed tight but I still couldn't imagine a GPS based system working well like mentioned earlier.

[Andre]

@Orlando76

We're also using PP classic and magnets so similar set up to yours...

We just replace the gators with beavers... :)

It was a good year as we only lost 2 bouys to the Wallys.

[Orlando76]

I never said GPS systems wouldn't work, I just said I couldn't imagine. My limited ZO experience is on a permanent course. Previous seasons we've had to reset our anchor sometimes weekly so our one end would vary maybe ~20'? I know when diving if my waypoint is 20' off I may never find it by the time I get to the bottom.

[BraceMaker]

PP stargazer really only uses the entry gate position. Passes that point and you get "start" time.

 

Anchors are always the problem - how deep are you going to be? We run the mainline very near to the bottom with longer ball lines since the I/O's will snap your PVC booms.

 

But the deeper you go the harder it becomes to deal with your booms and mainline and anchors.

 

Locally it is very easy to buy these concrete lids for septic tanks - they have 2 rebar handles shaped like U's molded into the concrete and weigh ~50-100 lbs depending on the size.

 

If you're shallow enough you take that and an Auger, you connect the disc to the auger with chain and then a length of chain to the other end to connect to the mainline with a logging chain hook. When you need more tension you bring the mainline up a link of the chain and the concrete prevents the auger from being pulled on and the auger keeps the concrete from moving.

[mwetskier]

bear in mind that a concrete weight of 100 lbs dry will have an under water weight of less than 60 lbs. 50 lbs of concrete will provide less than 30 lbs of anchoring force.

[LeonL]

ZO doesn't care if there are any buoys, doesn't care if it's mapped, it just runs the speed you input. Now if you want ZO to tell the times it ran, it needs to be mapped.

[BraceMaker]

@mwetskier - exactly - and if its a poured bucket of concrete it really makes a poor anchor as it rolls around when pulled on. The flat concrete disk method works because the lift/tug of the mainline is buffered by the weight which can slide but won't lift. This then is stopped from sliding by the auger being driven into the ground.

 

Auger alone our experience is that over time they work loose under the tug/movement from the mainline. Concrete alone needs to be tensioned repeatedly.

[jcamp]

@BraceMaker emaker we'll be in about 8-10 feet of water.

[BraceMaker]

Atleast for me - that's shallow enough to do bottom work, fins help. I'd only do that if you have people around keeping an eye on you.

[mjump]

We use an accufloat stainless steel main line with a concrete block for 55s. Anchors are 3 55# bags of concrete with eye bolts at each end. Stargazer for cruise control.

[LeonL]

I haven't tried to do an erroneous mapping, so I'm not sure. I understand that it gives you an error if you try to indicate the end gate too far off from expectations. If you have two courses that are relatively close (i.e. Okeehelee) you have to turn off auto select or you will get unexpected results. Strange times, wait timer not functioning normally.

[TallSkinnyGuy]

My PP Stargazer (version 8.06) just uses a mapped entry gate to start the timer but it doesn't matter if I am in a course or not or if I start through the gates but then shoot off to one side. Mapping both gates is just done so you have a timer start place on both sides. If your course gates get moved then you will have to re-map the course, but this is quite an easy and quick process.

 

I use my portable course as an actual portable (in and out each time) and map the course each time since I don't get it in exactly the same spot each time. I map the course, use the course, then delete the mapping. Next time I just repeat this process.

[MISkier]

As you map ZO, it starts to track how far you drive after you map the entry gates. It begins to beep when it is nearing the distance that should be the exit gates. The beeping increases in frequency and intensity until you press the button as you pass through the exit gates.

 

It will fail a mapping and tell you the course is out of tolerance, if you press the button at the exit gates and it does not align with what ZO thinks should be the exit gate distance. I had it do that to me when I was trying to map an 8 ball course and did it incorrectly.

[6balls]

Given PP is rpm based and uses magnets on both ends, if the mainline was stretched PP would need to run faster than, say, 34.2, in order to get the desired time.

 

The PVC arms may sag over time creating a narrow course. Using something buoyant mid arm can help...lots of ways to accomplish. Partially inflated buoy or swim noodle etc tied tight to the pvc.

[GHLskier]

Have had a great 19 yr experience with our insta-slalom. Surprisingly the rope mainline has lasted us 19 yrs. Quite amazing and PPass gets perfect times past 3 years since installing in boat. Quite dark and cool water 5ft under surface seems to limit UV and have had no stretching. It's in for May and out in October and we are lucky water levels change minimally. Very sheltered area but one thing that has worked very well in past 5 years is dropping a cement block in middle of course with a hole drilled thru the A section(boat gate) centre for a rope. Keeps it straight during mild breeze.

[Roger]

@Mark_Matis - parallel courses. ZO, when set to auto-select, runs correctly in the course with the usual times. However, it does get confused and sometimes doesn't start the timer, this is reason we lock the course in at Okeeheelee. The only issue with getting bad (or weird) times in the course is when you have one of the parallel courses locked in and you run in the other course.

[Justin_C]

As far as an anchor system, we've had really good luck with using 5 or 6 cinder blocks tied together. The good thing is that individually they are a manageable weight to drop in but once you dive down and connect them all, it has lots of weight and doesn't roll. Obviously this works best for shallower setups. We also run a piece of garden hose through the cinders to avoid chafing on the rope

[Chef23]

We wrap a chain around I think it is 4 cinder blocks and drop that. We have a very muddy bottom though so things sink in. Not a portable course installed but we do have two floaters.

[swc5150]

I own an Insta and an EZ Slalom course. FWIW, the EZ Slalom is built better.

[Justin_C]

If you haven't already bought the insta-slalom, talk to @Edbrazil about the best options for your situation. He's helped me out with different issues in the past. Very knowledgeable!

[rfa]

Hi there @jcamp. We have had a permanently installed insta-slalom for almost 15 years. Replaced the original poly mainline with a steel line about 5 years ago. The original line had stretched about 20 feet. Public lake with fair amount of jet skis, tubers and fishermen. We keep spare bouys, bouy lines and PVC arms "in stock". Main line held with heavier anchor on one side, lighter on the other. 55's are anchored separately. Maintenance is unpredictable, just a function of non-slalom activity in or around the course. This summer we have probably replaced a dozen bouys, 4-6 bouy lines and 3 broken PVC arms. And the 55's on one side (PVC/line/bouys). Obviously lots of non-slalom activity this summer...

We let the course sink in the winter and "fish" it back up in the spring...west wind will put a bow on the course almost regardless of how tight we can get the mainline. 1 or 2 line tightening efforts during the summer is typical. About 12-15 ft depth.

Best to you and family

[BraceMaker]

@rfa if the course position is pretty well fixed end to end you might consider running some outrigger lines. Carabiner and some line to a small anchor works well, can be adjusted if you get consistent bowing.

 

We moved in shallower water, so the mainline is pretty near the sand - but when it was deeper we had issues where we'd get a bow unless we pulled really tight but that led to more broken PVC arms and also pulled the boat guides down

 

[slalom frog]

Based on my experience, I would use a stainless mainline and 2" pvc. I purchased my a stainless mainline from EZ Slalom and make my own PVC sections out of 2" material. I do not leave it up year round but I have used it for 10 seasons now. Happy to answer any questions should you have any. Good luck!

[Bdecker]

@jcamp I have Ed Brazil lined up for an ice install this winter. I'm sure he'd love to have a project in Vermont as well if he is coming north. If you can leave it in permanently I wouldn't mess with a floater at your depths.

[lpskier]

I have used the same accufloat course for 20 +\- years. I purchased new segments to add 55s when they came along. I've had to do occasional repairs.

 

I use foam bullets for boat guides but add center weight to the arms between the boat guides to sink the boat guides to appropriate depth (I hate floppy boat guides.) I have a subfloat on each arm ( one gallon jug about half full with water half way from the inside boat guide to the turn ball) to support the arms so they don't bow as much. I fill the turn balls 40% full with water so they sit 60% submerged without added weight. I use 1/8 inch 4' long bungy cord (buy in bulk on a roll) tied to the ball and arm with bowline knots.

 

The secret to my course, which may not work on yours because your water is shallow, is I use long anchor lines with a large empty detergent jug tied to each line about half way between the anchors and the course. The jugs always try to float to the surface, though they are kept submerged by the line tension. As the water level fluctuates, the jugs sink or rise, keeping the course completely straight and tight all season. I virtually never have to manually adjust line tension to keep my course straight. But I have 20-60 feet of depth and you don't. My course almost always has a head/tail wind so we rarely have to worry about bowing. We frequently have to worry about whitecaps though!

 

By far the best anchors are old household cast iron radiators. The tall one, not the newer baseboard style. They are reasonably easy to handle when out of the water and settle right into the lake bottom. They will not move. Ever. Even if you want them to move.