Replacing the impeller on a PCM EXE343

[Johnbrannan]

Any suggestions or resources for this task? I am an above average DIYer and have an awesome set of tools. It looks like I will have to take down the tensioner, remove the belt, then access the housing. Any pitfalls to be aware of?

[Kelvin]

The bolts on the housing have O rings so you don't need to completely remove the bolts. This will keep you from accidentally dropping one in the bilge.

 

Don't overtighten the bolts when replacing the housing.

[LeonL]

Nothing difficult. 10mm socket, short extension insert through the holes in the pulley. Put the impeller in with the vanes angled the same as the the original. Reinstall the housing and belt. Done.

[countymountie]

Finding a torque wrench that had the low torque setting was the hardest part, but it's also very helpful for snugging up the engines knock sensors when you put them back in during the winterization process. I think I bought mine at Harbor Freight. Cheap.

[Hugh Nichols]

Put never seize on the shaft so when u replace this one it will come out a lot easier than the one you are taking out now.

[rockdog]

These are very simple, 10 times easier than my GT40.

[Jody_Seal]

I can do one in less then 4 min!....... Provided all the rubber parts are still intact!

[Johnbrannan]

So Jody,

is there a need to remove the belt?

John

[skiinxs]

Yes, you have to remove the belt. Take a picture of the fully installed belt first with your phone to ensure that you don't spend a lot of time figuring out the routing on reinstall. Put a ratchet or short breaker bar on the tensioner to release the tension and pull the belt off the pulley. Only takes a minute.

[PatM]

Keep in mind that there is a torque setting on the bolts. Use a torque wrench if you have one. I believe it is 8.5lbs.

[Jody_Seal]

Forget the torque wrench, use a 1/4" drive set with a short extension and a 10mm socket. After pulling the belt loose rotate the pump pulley holes to line up with the three small bolts on the outer housing. Loosen the bolts fully but do not pull them out as there are "O" rings on them on the inside. once all bolts are full backed out of the threads pull the outer housing/bearing Assy/ bolts and all away from the pump bowl. pull off old impeller , look for broken blade parts and install new impeller on shaft. lube blades with dish soap and reinstall with the housing marked top to the top and make sure large o ring and bolt o rings are in place. tighten bolts a little over snug with the 1/4" drive set up install serp belt and move on to getting more important things going like taking your next ski ride!!

[Mateo_Vargas]

I did mine yesterday and the hardest part was finding my 10mm socket which I left under the hood of a car that I had disconnected the battery.

 

Just in time too!

 

[Kelvin]

That impeller has needed changing for some time. I routinely change them at least once a year. Since starting the once a year swap, I have never removed one that looked that bad.

[BlueSki]

Cheap part to replace each year to avoid much more costly consequences.

[WaterSkier12]

Jody Seal, the voice of reason!

[Johnbrannan]

Thanks Jody and everyone.

 

[Johnbrannan]

I followed Jody's instructions, and the process went perfectly. It did not take 4 minutes, but next time it will. I was surprised to discover the wear on the impeller that had only 85 hours. We skied today, and there were no engine explosions. :) Thanks for the help

 

 

[Fast351]

Wow that looks only marginally better than the one I pulled with 300 hours on it.

 

[LeonL]

I don't know if I see wear or just strange distortion of the vanes.

[Fast351]

2 rub spots on all the vanes (not to mention dryrot cracking). My old one had wear spots just like that with spots worn on the vanes dividing it into thirds like that. There must be something in the housing that causes that.