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Perfect pass screen fading out


Monkstr6100
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So on my perfect pass pro 6.5ng I am starting to more and more have issues with the screen fading out on it. I have been told its VERY common on this generation of screen and perfect pass agreed that it is/was a very known issue. Now here is the biggest problem. Perfect pass says they used to make an upgraded replacement gauge, but stop a year or so ago, and now my ONLY option is to UPGRADE for low cost of just under 800 cause they ONLY make stargazer based stuff now? Anyone have any tips for making my current gauge work better. It is caused by humidity, so only have issues in the early AM sets or when its just damp out in general. An hour in the sun and its good to go. Also, everything still works, its just the display goes away. Thanks in advance, Zach J
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@Chef23 I read someplace about a guy opening his up and then sealing it some how. But can't seem to find that now. And another place that said that perfect pass has a little fix for it but the guy there that I talked to didn't seen to wanna say or didn't know. Always been a huge fan of them, great customer service usually, but this all shocked me. Mine is a 2006, so not like it should be some way out dated device. Especially with so many people going to ZO I would have expected more from PP.
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Had this issue with my 2007 211. I had my gauge replaced under warranty, but exactly the same as you. Gauge would not be visible if humid. PP would work fine.

 

I would disassemble the gauge, get it REALLY dry, then conformal coat the board. That should stop the issue.

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Well I opened up the gauge and sprayed the board today. Will install tonight or to borrow and let you know the results. Mine has the chrome bezel. Perfect pass told me I had to cut it off but I was able to bend the bevel part for about 1/3 the bezel and then slide it off.
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So far so good. Re installed and then skied this evening. So far so good, but it was not very humid at all. I sprayed it on, recoated after about 15 min, and then left it out in the sun to dry. Seemed to dry very fast. Hope this works.
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Same issue on my 07 Avy. I was getting pumped reading this thread because I felt there was going to be a happy ending (solution). I have read prior blogs about the conformal coating but I never came away 100% convinced that it cured the problem. Hopefully, you are still active on this site and can answer my question. Over time did the spray cure the problem permanently, a month, etc.?
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I have Stargazer with Zbox. Had a problem with screen turning upside down or going completely blank. After consulting PP I disconnected the depth sounder and that solved the problem. I guess @Monkstr6100 's problem is different though, but my tip might help someone else.

 

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I have a Zero Off that becomes so unreadable (faded) you can't tell if it's on or off. It makes it difficult when you go from a slalom 36 mph mode to a trick 14.5 for a swivel skier. I got another head from someone on Ski it Again but it was while in winter storage and have not yet installed or tried it out.
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New to me last week 2006 SN 196 with same problem, cool humid = blank display. PP 6.5ng (my work in auto industry ng=no good). I'm an engineer so I'm going to disassemble, conformal coat, seal LCD to board (from another thread).

 

Question: Did PP improve the replacement displays sold on PP.com? Or will it do the same thing eventually?

 

4th slalom boat in 30 years, getting used to this. Thanks

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Post repair report: the repair worked pretty well. I disassembled (unbending chrome bezel flange), cleaned visually obvious corrosion around the I/O (input/output) pins with electronics cleaner and a toothbrush (top of photo), sealed every housing hole with silicone, placed two 1 gram silica bags inside, reinstalled, heated in the sun for a day.

 

The housing can still 'breath' a little (thermal expansion) through the main cable grommet, which should be perfect (I'm a thermal engineer). Once initialized, it has been working at about 95% contrast for two days. Still some minor fading on the left side, but very readable, and this is only day #2 of drying out. I don't know if the I/O corrosion was the culprit or moisture inside the LCD. I'm guessing the I/O's.

 

I didn't see an opportunity to seal the LCD to the PCB as reported in another thread (Malibucrew). One of the four screws holding the LCD to PCB was out, the other three were loose. These don't tighten two parts solidly together, there's a designed gap between the LCD and threads on the PCB, so you have to tighten with just enough force to 'load' it just barely bending the PCB. Not a great design.

 

I learned a couple tips: (1) the inline connector immediately behind the display is very tough to separate even with a large flat screwdriver, it's easier to unplug at the CPU. (2) removing the I/P is not required, I can reach through the one hole in the fibre glass, unscrew the two display 3/8" nuts using just a deep socket w/o handle, as the nuts aren't too tight or they'd break the plastic bracket. (3) you have to rebend the chrome bezel completely or it can scratch the main I/P trim. (4) have all the stuff ready before you start, like conformal coating, silica bags & electronics cleaner (all very inexpensive). (5) It's necessary to start the engine to initialize the gauge once it's been depowered, ignition power only didn't work.

 

I haven't applied the conformal coating as it just arrive today, so using the lessons of easy removal I'll do that soon. I'll probably remove the CPU this fall, check for corrosion and conformal coat it as well. Then to inspect the other gauges, as my oil gauge is dead.

 

This was not a bad task (after lessons learned), with great results.

 

w8ehag2m4wz4.jpeg

 

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Had same issue with 2004 Malibu RLxi Perfect Pass. Moisture was my problem. Removed gauge, tightened screws holding circuit board in place, coated full board with silicone conforming, added a couple silica packets and sealed all unused hols in back of gauge with silicone. Has been good so far. q8czhb66xd38.jpeg

1znrbws4zjtu.jpeg

 

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Well my display is dead now, speed control still works fine, just don't dare try to change a setting. Reading other LCD repair post (not PP related), it seems the likely issue is where the ribbon cable is attached to the LCD glass, which looks to be an adhesive. I can't find any good repair posts that detail how to fix the ribbon cable attachment. Anybody here know anything about this item?
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