Shoremaster lift and tracking fin issues?

[RLW]

Looking at purchasing a Shoremaster vertical lift and wondering if anyone has issues with damage to tracking fins. Also, opinions regarding vertical vs cantilever lifts appreciated.

[DW]

I do not with mine, it is a matter of the bunks being at correct height and they do have a prop guard that can help with any potential contact issues. Pros and cons to each, mine is vertical and the biggest item are the cables since there are several. I do think cantilever lifts are a very good option and simpler. When I drop my boat in water, I make sure there is good clearance between lift bunks and bottom of boat before I exit the lift to ensure no contact upon return.

[Jordan]

Cantilever lifts are helpful in shallow water as the carriage gets out to deeper water for loading. This obviously depends upon the topography of your lake bottom.

 

Vertical lifts are easier to load in rough water.

 

[BraceMaker]

Shoremaster has a center bend cradle - but anytime you set up a boat you have to check the clearances.

 

I run my bunks high enough that even with a flat cradle bar I'd have to be ~2-3 feet too far in on the lift to hit the strut, and the fins can't hit the bar because the bunks are taller than the fins are long.

 

So if you set them up high enough you'll be fine (unless your lift doesn't have enough range for the depth of the water or something crazy)

 

Personal preference runs towards Harbor Master, they're kind of a hybrid cantilever in which the cradle rides up/down an inclined bar on a single cable in the front, so cable only turns twice, the amount of weight on the cable is only the force vector along the bar so a small percentage of the weight of the boat, and the crank is really easy because you're not pulling the tension in the cable like you do on a vertical.

[APB]

I have a shoremaster. Proper bunk setup is easy and the key to success. Way stronger than shore master

[jayski]

I concur with @DW had a vertical for quite a few years and eventually switched to a cantilever. Royal PIA to change cables on the verticals, and they seem to wear more than I think they should. Had a Shoremaster previously and went to the Hewitt Cant, they are built substantially better.

[Cent]

Have both.

Cantilever far simpler design. Fewer cables. Easier to repair.

[skihacker]

The last vertical lift i considered the boat cradle lowers into the outer frame, so the cradle pretty much can sit on the bottom of the pond. The big advantage is a little more travel bottom to top, a cantilever usually gets you about 3 feet, most verticals are around 5 feet so if you deal with bigger fluctuation in water level a vertical is a plus. The salesman stated they never sell cables, I was a little skeptical about that. All the cables and pulleys are mounted in an run through frame rails, any mid season work is a pita. I ended up keeping my cantilever, it's been pretty bullet proof and is paid for. I set my bunks so that the fins will clear the rear cradle rail but the strut won't. We usually deal with pretty shallow water in the fall so I just make sure not to come in too far.

[BraceMaker]

Thats the advantage of harbor master. Huge lift range but cradle drops into frame at full down

[Cent]

Harbor Master used to make both around 1899 as I recall Harbirmadter went to cantilever only.

[6balls]

Cantilever max height is pre-determined. I like my vertical cuz I can tuck my boat WAY up under the canopy--windshield frame just inches from canopy frame at top of travel. Helps 3 ways: 1). keeps out of elements/sun 2.) doesn't allow for the canopy to become a parachute in a storm 3.) if you are on a public lake, wind and surfboats can create some serious waves...nice to be above them.