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  • Baller
Posted

We are currently facing electrical problems with our 2010 200 ZR 6.0 litter.

We were able to unlock the keypad, but as soon as we tried to "turn the switch on" before cranking the engine everything turns off.

After unlocking we also pressed the horn button, but also the sound fades off and everything shuts off.

 

We tried charging the battery, battery was also tested, but now not even the keypad turns on.

 

We have checked the engine fuses an the breakers under the dash but they look ok.

 

Is it normal that even with the 3 way switch at the off position you can hear a kind of relay on the engine clicking when you connect the battery?

When this switch is at the bilge only bilge pumps work.

 

 

Does any one have any idea of what could be wrong or how to fix this? Our dealer is very far away.

 

Thanks for your help/feedback

  • Baller
Posted

The electronics of your boat are beyond me, but the description you provide is very similar to what happens when you have a bad connection in a battery cable, or a bad cable itself where things act hunky dory until a load is applied they then arc and the connection shorts acting dead.

 

Voltage drop testing works as does running a jumper cable in parallel to the battery cables to see if it resolves.

  • Baller
Posted
This sounds like a really big voltage drop problem, main ground on the engine block loose or dirty? the big cable connectors to the battery shut off switch loose or dirty? Google voltage drop test with a dvom and work your way through the whole system, has to be pretty bad if it won't really blow the horn.
  • Baller
Posted
Take the battery out of your truck and try that. I can't count the number of batteries I've had that appear to take a charge that don't.
  • Baller
Posted

There’s a electrical relay under the dash on those boats and when it gets wet over time they fail

is it a open bow

A buddy of mine had the same issue on that boat and it was difficult to chase

  • Baller
Posted
Yeah, my earlier advise is counting on a good battery, put a meter right at the battery and turn something on, really needs to hold 12.5 volts.
  • Baller
Posted

Thank you everyone for your support. I think I’ll have an interesting weekend testing....

@jimski how does the relay is located so you think you could share a picture.

Forgot to mention the boat took a lot of water the other day 4 weeks ago but worked fine the last 3 weeks.

  • Baller
Posted

We have the same problem sometimes get to start button and dumps the power. Ours is definitely battery connections, right pain though need to solder better connections which should help.

2012 just hit the 600hrs ish...and our clock gone back to zero... Anyone got thoughts on that...?

  • Baller
Posted

Then the starter is likely junk. Rust takes a few days to destroy things.

 

You also need to look for any wiring harnesses that may have been under water. It'll creep up and corrode the wiring inside the jacketing. 5" above floor - did the boat hit the bottom of the lake?

  • Baller
Posted

@JuanJ sorry I don’t have the picture any more

It was the exact same issues took water over the bow and showed the exact same problems.

Over time the electrical connections in the box corrode and don’t connect properly and will just shut down.

It was a black box no bigger that your hand

I can’t remember if it was under the passenger seat or under the kick panel below the steering wheel

We had everything apart

 

  • Baller
Posted

@oldjeep Boat did not sink because the boat lift was underneath....

we took all water out and sprayed everything with Wd40.

No connections on engine side were underwater the ones we saw ...Only a couple next to accelerator might have been but been below water we unplugged and cleaned no rust there...

Sorry for bad grammar

 

  • Baller
Posted

Could be a bad keypad, they are known to go bad over time.

 

I had similar unpredictable electrical issues (hit the horn and the whole boat shuts off) that turned out to be a damaged connector on the back of the keypad.

 

This happened from taking my dash/helm off (to swap out gauges on my 196) without fully disconnecting the 4pin plug on the back of keypad. This resulted in bending the connector, causing behavior just like what you are seeing.

 

Popped in a replacement keypad and it was fixed.

  • Baller
Posted
Is there a way to test the keypad with out a new one. I’m that there might be an electrical issue that could damage the new one. How does the power go from battery to 3 way switch to keypad to engine to starter ?
  • Baller
Posted

Could just be coincidence, but half sinking boat 4 days before problems points to water in electronics/corrosion. I'd just start going through everything and consider starting an insurance claim. Flooding a boat/car the problems just continue.

 

And your English is fine

  • Baller
Posted
The boat work well for 4 weeks... I think corrosion is the issue thank everyone for the comments and help
  • Baller
Posted

@jimski Thanks for your comment I think we found the problem. We used @skihacker method and only 6 volts reached the panel.

Removed the relay and it’s burned.

 

Thanks everyone for your help we will change relay and let you know the results

  • Baller
Posted

We changed the relay and everything works well now.

It is located behind the panel on the drivers feet. Next to the breaker box.

Thank you everyone again for your help.

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