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How to assemble Reflex R style?


Orlando76
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Just ordered one from MNI. I hate to be dumb but how do you assemble the R-Style? Hex nuts go on the inside of the shell evidently with a bolt to go with it, one in front, one in rear. But I’m left with a considerable 1/4” gap between toe of binding and plate. Plus I’m left with two extra bolts, two blind nuts, and two washers. Can somebody point me in the right direction?
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@Orlando76 I'm in Seattle but if somebody doesn't give you good instructions before I get back home Friday I'll get you some pictures and instructions
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There’s what I’ve come up with. @dave2ball I guess I can put the quarter sized washer between boot and plate. I’m not sure what good that does?

 

Also even more of a concern.... my front binding (HO Syndicate Hardshell) is mounted in middle. I’m either middle hole or second from back (Can’t remember, hadn’t skied in 10 months bc of injury). Rear shell is as far back as I can get it with plate and that allows very little clearance for the release to work.

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@Orlando76 I’ve never seen one shipped in pieces, requiring assembly, but anyway it’s not that hard, you are half way there. Same principle as the big nuts, the small ones go on top through the bottom of the shell and the countersunk screws go under the plate like the ones you have already installed. Washers go between the plate and the shell (secured in place by the screws.) These extra bolts, nuts and washer are there for extra hold and security and to eliminate any play caused by the gap between the plate and the bottom of the shell.
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Do you have the rear boot turned slightly clockwise, or is that just an optical illusion of the photo? Like Alex said, those extra holes in the bottom of the boot are for your extra hardware. Just the two holding it down allow the boot to be a bit wobbly. You may find that you need to cant your boot counter clockwise, as you are RFF. I had to because of what felt like odd twisting pressure on my knee. Your spacing looks good, definitely plenty for your release mechanism. You may want to measure you ankle to ankle spacing to compare with what you used to run on the back, if something doesn’t feel right.
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@aupatking I do have it turned slightly clockwise to bring my rear knee up and back into backside of my front knee. I’ve had a coach work me that way. Not sure if it’s gonna stay that way yet. Just got the go ahead to ski and can’t get opportunity until this weekend. Coming from Wileys. But if I use the two other bolts in the other two rear holes like in my first pic, 180*linear is all I can achieve without modification. Or am I missing something?
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@Orlando76, with the existing holes, I think you could probably get away with using just one in the toe box if you were canting it the other way. With how you are needing it set up, Just screw it down the way you have it and take a drill to the boot for holes wherever you want them. That boot material can handle it
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@Orlando76 try this screw through plate then washers under the front followed by boot and then bolt. That should attach the boot with minimal movement. Don’t worry about where your toe is. The spread between your heel bones should be between 12 and 13 inches.

The plate may stiffen the tail a bit. The G 10 or carbon plate has less flex then aluminum.

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You can see the 2 flat washers between the shell and plate. 2 of the 3 screws at the heel that are side by side have the washers. I ordered this r-style new in June and it came assembled. I haven’t skied in over 10 years. Started back May 4th. Was on my old Goode with double hard shells until I ordered a HO syndicate Omni with the syndicate hardshell. I tried this r-style but wasn’t crazy about it so I ordered a rtp from Wiley’s. After about 4 sets I got used to the rtp. I didn’t like having my rear foot further back due to the front release and my foot would slide forward and back in the shell. I wear a 12 so I’m in between the xl and xxl. Hope this helps.
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