Wiring new subwoofer, positive+ connection to accessory switch OK?

[hemlock]

Picked up a new subwoofer enclosure with amp built in. Got it hooked up in the observer seat compartment and all worked great. (direct power connection to the battery)

But the compartment almost acts like a sound proof room, and you can barely hear it. Open the hatch, and oh baby!

Anyway....I would like to move the subwoofer enclosure to the driver footwell area. It's a tall skinny box, and fits just nicely.

The question: Do I have to run the positive and negative cables directly back to the battery? or can I hook the positive to one of my free accessory switches, and run the negative to the common ground mounted under the dash?

Thanks.

 

 

[Stevie Boy]

Ah ? so there we are relaxing trying to get in the zone, enjoying the moment and then somebody fires up their subwoofer.

Nice !

[addkerr]

Retract my comment. Running a direct cable that is suitable for the constant amp draw sounds safe and fairly easy.

 

@Stevie Boy nothing wrong with getting some music blaring out before a set. Some people take skiing way too seriously. Crank the volume and have some fun!!

[Stevie Boy]

@addkerr the music is no problem at all, as long as you respect other people and home owners on the lake.

One of the reasons homeowners get knarly, how loud do you need it ?

I have witnessed the Wakeboard Boat coming down the lake with 8-10 people in it, with music as loud as a Panamanian Carnival, resulting in a conflict where another boat started to fire flares at it, it all got a bit nasty, remember the Authorities love to shut down lakes, they get some sort of weird pleasure from it.

[hemlock]

Thanks @addkerr, I will check the amp draw on the amp, and look at the accessory fuse.

 

We mostly slalom, do not have a tower, and definitely do not try to be heroes. :smiley:

Just want a better audio experience.

[buechsr]

hemlock,

I disagree with addkerr. You are much better off going directly to the battery for several reasons including power delivery and noise in the system. You could run the remote wire to an accessory switch or key I suppose, but you likely have that to the HU already and you might as well leave it there.

[bigskieridaho]

You have to watch how you wire it. Make sure your remote wire is not making the amp constantly draw current. The way mine is wired it was drawing too much and throwing codes because the coil wasn’t getting enough power. I had to add another battery into a dual battery switch.

[Greg Banish]

Agreed on running a fresh (fused) connection direct to the battery. It is very unlikely that your accessory power leads are robust enough to supply the current that amp needs. Just run a dedicated power line.

[skimtb]

+1 on direct to battery (make sure to include fuse at some point in the wire)

[TheBigHead]

@hemlock you 100% need to go back to the battery for the constant power leads of your amp.

 

Then you can connect the remote wire to a switched accessory lead (key on power)

[hemlock]

Thanks all.

I will run power back directly to battery with an inline fuse. (it came with the amp install kit) The remote wire is connected to the head unit, so that should work just fine.

Head unit turns on, amp turns on.

 

FWIW, I double checked the circuit breaker amp ratings in my boat, (2003 Sunsetter) and the accessory switch ratings vary. Some are 10 amps, some 15 and 20. (Tower lights, fat sacks, etc etc) I don't have any of those options on my boat so I have lots of free accessory switches.

Anyway, I believe my amp could draw more than that.

From some research on the net, my 300 watt RMS system should draw up to around 50 Watts. (Something about RMS watts divided by the efficiency, then divided by the Voltage)

The inline fuse that came with the kit I believe is rated at 60 amps.

 

I will do yoga or something before I run wire back to the battery again. :smile: