Tfactors Do Not seem to be compatible with Radar & Ho Anymore.

[Stevie Boy]

I run Tfactor Front Binding & HO RTP, looking to get onto a ski with a little bit more width, I have tried the Senate and now the Omni and not been able to acheive stock setting for the front binding, it now seems that your choice of binding, may dictate what ski you are able use.

WTF is going on ?

 

[Weappa]

Have you considered 3M interloc?

[Stevie Boy]

@Weeppa Staying with my system, had some horrendous crashes, walked away most time, recently I broke toe, other than that it's all been good, shame D3 do not modify their plate all they have to do is continue it at the front instead of the cutaway and you would be able to elongate the slots, currently drilling and countersinking the plate underneath, what a ball ache.

[Jody_Seal]

I utilize a new "t" factor rear high wrap on a new 2019 vapor.. it bolted right up..

[vtmecheng]

@Stevie Boy the 3M interlock is the plastic interlocking stuff that is kind of like a strong velcro. Make sure you get the stronger version, like the one I linked. Some mount their bindings using this stuff, especially on Goode skies that don't have inserts.

[Than_Bogan]

Same issue with Tfactor and Denali c75. Barely can get into the stock range, and if I want to run the boots back at all, I'll have to use the Dual-Lock and plate (which I have used for many years so no big deal for me).

 

Weird that Tfactor holes aren't in a similar range as e.g. Reflex. Were they ever?

[Drago]

I don't think they have changed. When trying an extreme bindings-back setup,I have drilled new holes for the back and middle holes and used washers to basically wedge/clamp the fronts down. Worth it to stay in pretty much the best binding ever

[MDB1056]

Mine fit fine on Connelly GTR, as well as old S2 but that was a 2012. Agree with @Drago - best binding ever . Love them.

[Chef23]

@Stevie Boy you can cover the bottom of the plate with dual lock and the binding will stick to the ski no matter what and you will release from the binding the same way you always have. I would prefer to use inserts but using dual lock to completely stick the binding to the ski will work I have done it in the past and I did it on a Goode ski that didn't have inserts with a Radar Strada and a RTP with no issues.

[Stevie Boy]

Thanks Guy,s I have managed to rework the plate and move the footbed, now fits both of my skis, like I said it,s a shame D3 don't continue there Front Plate instead of the cutaway at the front and put longer slots in or at least let skiers have the option of making their slots longer, sure it would help sales

@Jody_Seal Try a Front Tfactor, been there tried to do it, reworked the plate,by 11/16th's to get stock, had the top part of the binding hanging over the back of the plate, a tottally different story.

The rear you can sort of live with, but the Front binding placement is kinda of important

[Stevie Boy]

I know guy's are quite happy with interloc, but it's not for me, I like inserts

[BraceMaker]

@Stevie Boy with you there, I've never been unable to make a binding work - but I have a vertical mill so usually I screw the binding plate to a chunk of wood and just mill out the slots wherever they need to be.

 

Do you have to slot past the end of the plate?

[Than_Bogan]

Fwiw, Tfactors can be somewhat taken apart and put back together, including moving the boot relative to the plate. This may or may not void the warranty :).

 

There's a limit to this without really hard-core skills, though, since the footbed itself is glued to the plate.

[PatM]

There's always this solution. reflexwaterskiusa.com/product/universal-adapter-bondplate

[Stevie Boy]

@Than_Bogan The first set of holes there is room for adjustment in the plastic horseshoe, I was going to just move the boot by just putting the self tappers into the plastic, but in some places there was not enough meat, so the last eight holes had to be drilled and countersunk, moved the holes back about 7/16th's the foot bed wasn't too much of a problem a bit of hot water and it peeled off, after a clean up, applied spray contact adhesive( the type you use for floors) and re-positioned it.

Job Done !

A lot of work to Demo a Ski, I hope it's worth it, at least the binding still positions on my old ski.

A bit of a moan, but the manufacturers are not being very friendly on this issue, they seemed to be moving away from universal fitment of bindings, from the skiers point of view I personally think this is a step backwards, they would obviously say different.

[skialex]

You can work the slots a little or move the binding on the plate. Or if you are able to do these things you can toss the plate all together and mount the t-factor on a reflex g10 plate instead and enjoy the wide and long slots of the reflex plate.

[Stevie Boy]

@skialex thats my project for the winter to make a plate that is going to fit everything, I am not sure whether to do just the Front Plate or make a Plate that carries not only the Front Binding but also the RTP sort of one plate fits all, the only concern about one long plate for Front and RTP would it effect the flex of a ski.

[skialex]

@Stevie Boy personally I want to be able to move my bindings independently, but if you prefer a single plate why not. You can take a long g10 3-4mm thick and shape it to fit your ski and bindings. You can use reflex plates as templates. If you decide to do a monoplate version, you can cut 6 sets of slots and 2 sets of holes, in such a way that not both hole sets fit the ski holes at the same time (make that like half a hole difference). In this way you can use only 8 screws at a time and depending which holes you use to have the ability to move the plate by half a hole back and forth. Also this will allow your ski to flex more freely.

If you don’t want to start from scratch, either buy Reflex plates or monoplate, or a Goode G10 undrilled plate or maybe the Radar synchro g10 plate (this has too many holes and slots on it and need to see if you can align the t-factor screws).

Also when using thicker than your original aluminum plates, be sure to dippen your countersunks. You don’t want your boots to strip off while skiing.

 

[addkerr]

@Stevie Boy Iv just offered a T-factor up to a radar sequence plate. You can easily mark out spots to drill holes so you can screw the binding to the plate, you will just have to remove a footbed and bond it to the sequence plate so its the same. I did this with my rear T-factor and a carbon reflex plate. Works a treat.

[Chef23]

I am not sure if people have provided that feedback to D3 but it seems like it would make sense.

[Stevie Boy]

@skialex just read something interesting on another thread, so if you have a plate with the normal slot arrangement and the extra hole in the plate to be able to move the upper part of the binding to and fro, it would be a hasdle to keep re - gluing the footbed, but this other thread mentions that on some HO Boots the footbed has velcro/interloc, so I think a footbed with velcro/interloc is a brilliant idea, if you run out of adjustment on the dlots you could re-positionnthe upper binding and footbed with no hassle.

Way to go I think, just need to get a blank plate with the slots already milled.

[skialex]

@Stevie Boy the HO direct connect plates have 2 pieces of Velcro under the footbed in order to be able to reach the mounting screws. The rest is glued (maybe it’s all Velcro, but it’s there to reach the screws). The synchro plate has a lot of slots in order to adjust the radar or other boots on the plate. Best thing is to put your t factor in such a way that all holes lyes on the g10 where you can drill holes and not on the slots. Use contact adhesive and masking tape to mask the slots and hole so the adhesive won’t drip.